"Crewcab Jake" the 84 to 74 conversion

[N2TRUX]

Today I made a trip to Homegrown Hotrods. I needed to test fit some parts, and measure my drive shaft. I got the direct fit bench seat bracket from TMI Products this week. What I discovered was it's a direct fit for a regular cab, which makes it fit perfectly in the rear of a crewcab.

[N2TRUX]

Since we had previously set up the generic fit bench bracket for front seats, it made sense to leave it there. They come as bolt together pieces. Once we get the fit perfected, I will weld them in place and grind everything smooth

[N2TRUX]

Another part I wanted to test fit was the dual tank switch. Jake started life as a Silverado with no options. I plan to change that by adding as many functional amenities as possible. I used a dual tank bed so I could add an additional tank as mentioned in a previous post.

The switch for the tanks would normally be mounted in the middle of the dash. I have no desire to cut a big hole in a freshly painted dash so I opted for a new location. The ashtray provides a perfect place to hide the switch. I will use a piece of textured plastic to make a faceplate and cut a hole for the switch.

[N2TRUX]

And last, but certainly not least was the driveshaft. I had multiple discussions with Steve Smith from QA1 regarding a custom built carbon fiber driveshaft. Since we couldn't confirm the specs on the slip yoke he suggested using the stock one. I felt that defeated the purpose of building a custom shaft. I decided to get the answers he needed and went fact finding.

Unfortunately this required jacking the truck up and dropping the shaft out, but I have dimensions now.

[N2TRUX]

One last item that we tested out were the mirrors. The doors are set up for the later dumbo mirrors but the really look too big. The smaller "sport" mirrors look so much better but they are essentially useless. I decided to see what the earlier version would look like. These 69-72 used primarily on 1st gen Blazers.

They are about an inch bigger and stand an inch taller. They also have built in LED blinkers.

[N2TRUX]

Now that the decision was confirmed on the seat brackets, I could finish mocking them up. I mounted the front seats back on the frame and worked on the console mounts. With it positioned forward the back feet set one the frame just fine. I marked and drilled the holes and dropped stainless screws through. I used largest washers possible to distribute the stress points.

[N2TRUX]

The front feet hung over the frame. I didn't want to drill new holes, so I chose to fabricate a small bracket to support it properly. This allows me to use the original mounting points that are reinforced. I temporarily bolted them on. All of the brackets and mounting tabs will be welded so I can remove as many of the through bolts as possible.

[N2TRUX]

With all the mounting done I spent some time giving the frame a tune up. The corners were rounded, and the ends of the tabs were tapered and rounded as well. I plan to use button hedge bolts to hold them in place.

[OlySezHey]

So, obviously, I just found this thread, I'll be getting my own '77 CCLB C20 the end of April, and I'm really grateful to have found this thread AND highly impressed by it's content - thank you SO MUCH for sharing! So much instructional info and vendor/parts recommendations! I'll be using Tamco paints as a result of your testimonial I'll have to get through your other builds to see what I can gleam from them

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

We are never to old to learn. I try to learn something of value every day. Unfortunately as I grow older, its harder to retain.

1. Thank God for a place like this for us to disguise "notes to self" as educational threads/blogs to the masses

2. Although I like the Cheyenne strip better on yer tailgate, I prefer the newer style side mirrors IMO, but I saw you opted for the '69-'72 mirrors, definitely the best choice (again, IMO)
3. Regarding the rusted rocker; "The exposed insides will be blasted, and neutralized." What do you mean by neutralized? Using a rust converter of some type?
4. Are the new rockers getting welded or glued in?
5. What did you use to clean the Silverado tailgate band? That looks great!
6. I'm impressed how well those rubber hoses cleaned up (oil cooling lines, gas filler tube) I never would have thought that could be done!
7. What kind of chrome cleaner do you use? Turtle wax chrome cleaner seems to work pretty good to me.

I appreciate it if you have the time to answer my questions, other than that, keep on building the dream - it's at least as much encouragement for us as we might be for you

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by OlySezHey

So, obviously, I just found this thread, I'll be getting my own '77 CCLB C20 the end of April, and I'm really grateful to have found this thread AND highly impressed by it's content - thank you SO MUCH for sharing! So much instructional info and vendor/parts recommendations! I'll be using Tamco paints as a result of your testimonial I'll have to get through your other builds to see what I can gleam from them

1. Thank God for a place like this for us to disguise "notes to self" as educational threads/blogs to the masses
You would've surprised how often I go back through my threads. I also keep my build pics organized in folders
2. Although I like the Cheyenne strip better on yer tailgate, I prefer the newer style side mirrors IMO, but I saw you opted for the '69-'72 mirrors, definitely the best choice (again, IMO)I'm still undecided on the tailgate band. I'll wait till I get moulding and bumpers in place before I take my final choice
3. Regarding the rusted rocker; "The exposed insides will be blasted, and neutralized." What do you mean by neutralized? Using a rust converter of some type? We cut out the rusted metal and used Rust Mort to nuetrilize the rust. We coated it with a sealer, then welded in a metal patch panel
4. Are the new rockers getting welded or glued in?We didn't find it necessary to replace the rocker panel. A small patch was all that was required
5. What did you use to clean the Silverado tailgate band? That looks great! I used Adam's Metal polish. In reality it was in mint condition. All I did was give it a good cleaning
6. I'm impressed how well those rubber hoses cleaned up (oil cooling lines, gas filler tube) I never would have thought that could be done! I use Scotch Brite and brake cleaner. It's a miracle worker
7. What kind of chrome cleaner do you use? Turtle wax chrome cleaner seems to work pretty good to me. Good old Turtle Wax

I appreciate it if you have the time to answer my questions, other than that, keep on building the dream - it's at least as much encouragement for us as we might be for you

Thanks so much for following along

[N2TRUX]

I have a few small things on the interior I'm not happy with the way they look. One of those items are the ashtray on the back door panels. They stuck out like a sore thumb, and they would never be used for their intended purpose.
In one of my middle of the night OCD sessions I had an idea. I decided to convert them to courtesy lights. The housings are made from stainless steel, so I spent some time with rubbing compound and got them looking new again.

[N2TRUX]

Once I got both sides polished I made a pattern. I used the foam from a "to go" box since its easy to cut.
It took a bit of trimming to get a perfect fit, but now its ready to transfer. I am looking for a source for the appropriate material to use as a lense.
I plan to use an LED light in a small socket to give additional lighting in the rear seat area.

[OlySezHey]

Damn - I hate it my 3D printing is out of commission - it would be PERFECT for creating custom lenses! Maybe you know somebody closer to you who does that kind of thing. The imagination is about the only limit! Actually now that I think about it, I'd make little lithophanes to mount in there! Turning those into lights is a pretty bright idea (you can smack me for the bad pun if I ever get a chance to meet you)

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by OlySezHey

Damn - I hate it my 3D printing is out of commission - it would be PERFECT for creating custom lenses! Maybe you know somebody closer to you who does that kind of thing. The imagination is about the only limit! Actually now that I think about it, I'd make little lithophanes to mount in there! Turning those into lights is a pretty bright idea (you can smack me for the bad pun if I ever get a chance to meet you)

I hadn't thought about a 3D printer for making the lenses. That's a good idea, but might not be cost effective. Unless I can find what I need, I'm going to try a clear lenses that's fluted and add satin clear as needed.

[N2TRUX]

I got in late last night, so I spent time on my desktop researching a source for a lens. I didnt come up with anything that fit my needs at a fair price, so I'm still on the hunt.

I did receive part another piece of the puzzle for my dual tank system. My buddy Chris Lucas had a dual tank truck that he pulled "like new" parts from a while back. He no longer needed the hard line assembly. It had factory curved hoses and had a fresh switching valve. Now I can mock up my duel tank system once Jake gets back home.

[aggie91]

Ken, I know you do a ton of research when you do your builds, so again I am going to try to save you some time by helping out and hoping you have not already done this research.

Previously I mentioned the fuel pump pressure depending on what EFI swap you plan for in the future. The same principle applies to the Fuel Tank Selector Valve. The stock C10 valve is a low pressure rated valve and would work for a TBI system, but not a system requiring more than 20-25 psi of fuel pressure.

Pollak makes a high pressure tank selector valve that works with the high efi pressure requirements. Here is a good refence thread for the dual tanks for use with EFI...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=379708

I am planning a LS swap into Owen's '84 this summer and the intent is to use the dual tanks and have it function as is should stock. At this point, I am leaning to use Jabin Wood's (gmachinz) harness kit he makes for just this type of swap (posts #17 & #18 of the above thread)

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Ken, I know you do a ton of research when you do your builds, so again I am going to try to save you some time by helping out and hoping you have not already done this research.

Previously I mentioned the fuel pump pressure depending on what EFI swap you plan for in the future. The same principle applies to the Fuel Tank Selector Valve. The stock C10 valve is a low pressure rated valve and would work for a TBI system, but not a system requiring more than 20-25 psi of fuel pressure.

Pollak makes a high pressure tank selector valve that works with the high efi pressure requirements. Here is a good refence thread for the dual tanks for use with EFI...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=379708

I am planning a LS swap into Owen's '84 this summer and the intent is to use the dual tanks and have it function as is should stock. At this point, I am leaning to use Jabin Wood's (gmachinz) harness kit he makes for just this type of swap (posts #17 & #18 of the above thread)

Right now I'm just gathering pieces. I know at some point I will have to update or change the components to meet the needs of powertrain I end up with. Until then, I just want to put the components in place.

I "wish" I could build the system once and be done with it. Unfortunately time, resources, and supply wont accommodate that desire.

[68Timber]

The courtesy light is a fresh idea. Maybe a dome light out of an older car? Seems like I've seen one somewhere that size that also had a flush lense. Someone following your build might know of one that would fit that spot and look right. Just a thought. As always, great work.

[rustytruck50]

How thick or thin can your lens material be?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

The courtesy light is a fresh idea. Maybe a dome light out of an older car? Seems like I've seen one somewhere that size that also had a flush lense. Someone following your build might know of one that would fit that spot and look right. Just a thought. As always, great work.

My thoughts are that I want new material so its not dull or faded. I think I have found one that the lens will work from Northern Tool.

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

How thick or thin can your lens material be?

The actual depth is about 1/8" but I could go 3/16" and bevel the edges.

[N2TRUX]

Another late night at work, so no progress on my end. Fortunately Aaron had some progress on his end. He started the slow, tedious process of aligning the doors. He started with the drivers rear door lining it up with the cab line. It is going to need some trimming to make the gap right.

[rustytruck50]

That was kinda what I had in mind for the lens....I'm not sure what the material is, but I was thinking something like what some people use for side markers or taillamps...like a pixelated appearance. Not sure if that look would go with your interior design ideas.

[LT7A]

Ken, I'm intrigued by your idea to use the ash trays for courtesy lights. Up here I go to TAP Plastics for that kind of thing. They are pretty reasonable and can work off of a template. They are only in WA, OR, and CA, but can possibly suggest someone near you. Or take care of you via mail. If you want to go that route and have someone "hands-on" to go to the store, let me know.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

That was kinda what I had in mind for the lens....I'm not sure what the material is, but I was thinking something like what some people use for side markers or taillamps...like a pixelated appearance. Not sure if that look would go with your interior design ideas.

I am looking for a lens that has built in diffusing to disperse the light evenly. My hope is that the finished product will integrate so that it goes unnoticed by most.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Ken, I'm intrigued by your idea to use the ash trays for courtesy lights. Up here I go to TAP Plastics for that kind of thing. They are pretty reasonable and can work off of a template. They are only in WA, OR, and CA, but can possibly suggest someone near you. Or take care of you via mail. If you want to go that route and have someone "hands-on" to go to the store, let me know.

There are a couple of plastic supply companies nearby that I considered for a source. I feel that they will only have sheet style light diffuser panels. I believe that a lens from a dome light, or reverse light is a better source.