HOW do you remove spindles and control arms - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

wahlie · 07-20-2009, 11:10 AM

Ok folks,
I've scoured the site here on how to remove my front spindles. I've got the cotter pins removed, and bolts loosened. I've read that guys are hitting the ball joints with a hammer... I tried this but she's not budging. I also read that guys are jacking the lower control arm to create pressure.... tried that as well.... no dice.... I forgot to snap a pict this morning of where i'm at in the process but I need to get these spindles off so I can eventually get to my control arms, get them off, sandblast,powdercoat them... I'm putting new ECE spindles on btw so I don't need the old ones.

Thanks,
Chris

67chevemall · 07-20-2009, 11:15 AM

You need a fork chisel or wammee bar to pop them up.

xplicitlyricky · 07-20-2009, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67chevemall

You need a fork chisel or wammee bar to pop them up.

That shoulod do it. I used a large, large pry bar aswell, but it was not the safe way to do it. A fork chisel and air hammer is the quickest, under 20 bucks at Harbor Fraight.

71tahoe · 07-20-2009, 11:37 AM

Have you been hitting the bolt end or the other end. A pickle fork does work but you may have to wedge it in there and also whack it a few times if you plan on replacing the ball joints anyway.

**americanmusc1e** · 07-20-2009, 11:50 AM

go pick up a Haynes shop manual for your truck, it shows you how to make a tool that will pop the ball joints loose!!! or you can rent a fork from Oreillys for free!!!!!

but you really should have a shop manual of some sort anyway!!!!!!!!

wahlie · 07-20-2009, 12:00 PM

Thanks for the tips guys. I've got the haynes manual as well as the assembly manuals/shop manuals.... I didn't think to look in the haynes but scoured the other too... I've been hitting the spindle itself... Do I want to whack the actual ball joints or the top and bottom of the spindle?

*vegaschevy* · 07-20-2009, 12:08 PM

you really need to go to your local auto zone, checker, or oreillys, or anywhere that rents tools at no charge. You want to get a pickle fork to go inbetween the bottom of the joint your separating and the arm. hammer it in and sometimes screw the nut back on the end and whack it gently and the fork pressure will allow it to pop off.

see ten · 07-20-2009, 03:18 PM

A hammer and the force of the spring should suffice. See if these vids help you any.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ight=worthless

glock35ipsc · 07-20-2009, 03:46 PM

A BFH is all I've ever used.

Elephanthead · 07-20-2009, 03:52 PM

A pickle fork is 3 bucks at harbor freight.

**lolife99** · 07-20-2009, 04:33 PM

Replacing ball joints= PICKLE FORK

Reusing original ball joints= BFH

A pickle fork will tear the ball joint rubber grease boots. Don't use it unless you plan to change ball joints.

wahlie · 07-20-2009, 04:48 PM

excellent... gonna grab a pickle fork tonight. Thanks guys. I rewatched that tutorial for the 20th time that someone posted and something clicked. Also found some stuff on ehow.com

Thanks,
Chris

PanelDeland · 07-20-2009, 06:20 PM

Whack the top and bottom of the spindle itself.Right on the outside of the ball joint.If you're using a 3 # hammer you will need a bigger hammer.I use a 5 # engineers hammer.I had to whack the crap out of the passenger side to get it loose.The drivers popped both joints loose on the third whack.

LONGHAIR · 07-20-2009, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Replacing ball joints= PICKLE FORK

Reusing original ball joints= BFH

A pickle fork will tear the ball joint rubber grease boots. Don't use it unless you plan to change ball joints.

It's funny how the places that will "rent" you the tool are also the ones who will sell you the ball-joints when you tear them up.....LOL

I don't use a pickle fork ever.....Don't even own one. If you have one that is really bad, hold another hammer against the opposite side of the spindle when you strike it. Don't swing the second hammer, just hold it against the side of the spindle near the ball-joint stud.

wahlie · 07-20-2009, 09:26 PM

mission control...... we have liftoff... thanks for the tips guys... the pickle fork worked wonders. thanks for all of the tips. I even got the upper control arm off. gonna try to salvage the arms with a little sandblasting and powdercoating.

-Chris

Super-Dave · 07-21-2009, 02:27 AM

I would replace the ball joints while you are there, I did my own, just drill the upper rivets, and press the lower ones out.

71tahoe · 07-21-2009, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

Replacing ball joints= PICKLE FORK

Reusing original ball joints= BFH

A pickle fork will tear the ball joint rubber grease boots. Don't use it unless you plan to change ball joints.

Advance Auto and some others have a HELP section. They sell replacement grease boots. I'm sure NAPA carries them too.

wahlie · 07-21-2009, 09:27 AM

yup, i'm going to redo the entire suspension plus press out the old ball joints...

patthethird · 10-09-2009, 10:37 AM

I have a 3/4 ton 67 I'm trying to get the ball joints off of. I had a hydrolic jack in between the a arms and was beating a pickle fork to death with a 5# hammer. I swear I'm not getting anywhere. I dont know what i expect y'all to say, I am just frustrated.

71tahoe · 10-09-2009, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patthethird

I have a 3/4 ton 67 I'm trying to get the ball joints off of. I had a hydrolic jack in between the a arms and was beating a pickle fork to death with a 5# hammer. I swear I'm not getting anywhere. I dont know what i expect y'all to say, I am just frustrated.

I just did my half ton and all it needed was the spring pressure. Tried smacking the ball joint with the nut backed off with no luck. Then tried air hammer with a pickle fork with no luck. Got the BFH on the pickle fork and bingo. The only problem was getting the mangled nut off the ball joint. Grinder with a cutoff wheel made short work of that.

Try alternating hitting the pickle fork and the ball joint stud/nut.

Also make sure your assembly can't just fly apart. Keeping the nut on the ball joint should prevent it but it's a good idea to chain the spring to part of the chassis too.

LONGHAIR · 10-09-2009, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71tahoe

The only problem was getting the mangled nut off the ball joint. Try alternating hitting the pickle fork and the ball joint stud/nut. Also make sure your assembly can't just fly apart. Keeping the nut on the ball joint should prevent it

You shouldn't be mangling the nut.....You don't hit the nut/stud. You hit the spindle on the side, right where the tapered part of the shaft goes through. The "shock" of the hit makes it "jump" apart.

This is not the correct spindle, but the arrow shows where to hit.

71tahoe · 10-09-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

...You don't hit the nut/stud. You hit the spindle on the side, right where the tapered part of the shaft goes through. The "shock" of the hit makes it "jump" apart.

Much better advice. Less aggravation = happier camper and you can reuse the ball joints. Mine were shot so no loss but I really need to remember this for next time. Thanks LONGHAIR.

stealthy '69 · 10-09-2009, 06:00 PM

I must be a puss or some thing. I've been whacking them all week while I was on vacation. And it has not worked out so well. I spayed WD-40 on them, used a pickle fork, and a BFH. But no luck. I guess I need a BIGGER FH. I'll put on my man pants and try it again.

**john** · 10-09-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

It's funny how the places that will "rent" you the tool are also the ones who will sell you the ball-joints when you tear them up.....LOL

I don't use a pickle fork ever.....Don't even own one. If you have one that is really bad, hold another hammer against the opposite side of the spindle when you strike it. Don't swing the second hammer, just hold it against the side of the spindle near the ball-joint stud.

This is good advice. The second backup hammer helps distort the taper to pop the ball joint loose.

**lolife99** · 10-09-2009, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stealthy '69

I must be a puss or some thing. I've been whacking them all week while I was on vacation. And it has not worked out so well. I spayed WD-40 on them, used a pickle fork, and a BFH. But no luck. I guess I need a BIGGER FH. I'll put on my man pants and try it again.

Matt,...
make sure you have the upper and lower balljoint nuts backed off about 3 turns. (enough to stay on, and still create a gap)
Then make sure to have a floor jack under the lower a-arm,... but not touching it. (about 1" away from touching)

Then the force of the coil spring will help you "un-seat" the taper of the ball joints when you hit them with a big hammer.
(a sledge hammer works great,... the bigger, the better)

Do the upper first, then the lower.
Also alternate hitting the front side of the ball joint area of the spindle,... then hit the back side.

07-20-2009, 11:10 AM	#1
wahlie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: milford,ct Posts: 95	HOW do you remove spindles and control arms Ok folks, I've scoured the site here on how to remove my front spindles. I've got the cotter pins removed, and bolts loosened. I've read that guys are hitting the ball joints with a hammer... I tried this but she's not budging. I also read that guys are jacking the lower control arm to create pressure.... tried that as well.... no dice.... I forgot to snap a pict this morning of where i'm at in the process but I need to get these spindles off so I can eventually get to my control arms, get them off, sandblast,powdercoat them... I'm putting new ECE spindles on btw so I don't need the old ones. Thanks, Chris

07-20-2009, 11:15 AM	#2
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms You need a fork chisel or wammee bar to pop them up. __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

07-20-2009, 11:37 AM	#4
71tahoe Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Jonesboro, AR Posts: 916	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms Have you been hitting the bolt end or the other end. A pickle fork does work but you may have to wedge it in there and also whack it a few times if you plan on replacing the ball joints anyway.

07-20-2009, 11:50 AM	#5
americanmusc1e Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,079	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms go pick up a Haynes shop manual for your truck, it shows you how to make a tool that will pop the ball joints loose!!! or you can rent a fork from Oreillys for free!!!!! but you really should have a shop manual of some sort anyway!!!!!!!! __________________ -- Josh Instagram: @americanmusc1e OLD SKOOL-- 1970 C10. 454/Th400/3.07 posi Build Thread FARM TRUCK----1949 Chevrolet 3800 Power Wagon Hauler Build Thread 1999 4wd OBS Tahoe - daily. DM me if you can't see photos i posted

07-20-2009, 12:00 PM	#6
wahlie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: milford,ct Posts: 95	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms Thanks for the tips guys. I've got the haynes manual as well as the assembly manuals/shop manuals.... I didn't think to look in the haynes but scoured the other too... I've been hitting the spindle itself... Do I want to whack the actual ball joints or the top and bottom of the spindle?

07-20-2009, 12:08 PM	#7
vegaschevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2009 Location: las vegas nv Posts: 1,493	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms you really need to go to your local auto zone, checker, or oreillys, or anywhere that rents tools at no charge. You want to get a pickle fork to go inbetween the bottom of the joint your separating and the arm. hammer it in and sometimes screw the nut back on the end and whack it gently and the fork pressure will allow it to pop off.

07-20-2009, 03:18 PM	#8
see ten WTB this ad Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lafayette Georgia Posts: 5,073	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms A hammer and the force of the spring should suffice. See if these vids help you any. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ight=worthless

07-20-2009, 03:46 PM	#9
glock35ipsc Next project: 1970 K10 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524 Posts: 6,685	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms A BFH is all I've ever used. __________________ *Bob* 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 *next project!!* 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE

07-20-2009, 03:52 PM	#10
Elephanthead Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Carmel, IN Posts: 187	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms A pickle fork is 3 bucks at harbor freight.

07-20-2009, 04:33 PM	#11
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,682	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms Replacing ball joints= PICKLE FORK Reusing original ball joints= BFH A pickle fork will tear the ball joint rubber grease boots. Don't use it unless you plan to change ball joints. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

07-20-2009, 04:48 PM	#12
wahlie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: milford,ct Posts: 95	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms excellent... gonna grab a pickle fork tonight. Thanks guys. I rewatched that tutorial for the 20th time that someone posted and something clicked. Also found some stuff on ehow.com Thanks, Chris

07-20-2009, 06:20 PM	#13
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms Whack the top and bottom of the spindle itself.Right on the outside of the ball joint.If you're using a 3 # hammer you will need a bigger hammer.I use a 5 # engineers hammer.I had to whack the crap out of the passenger side to get it loose.The drivers popped both joints loose on the third whack. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

07-20-2009, 09:26 PM	#15
wahlie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: milford,ct Posts: 95	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms mission control...... we have liftoff... thanks for the tips guys... the pickle fork worked wonders. thanks for all of the tips. I even got the upper control arm off. gonna try to salvage the arms with a little sandblasting and powdercoating. -Chris Attached Images

07-21-2009, 02:27 AM	#16
Super-Dave Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Lompoc, Ca Posts: 128	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms I would replace the ball joints while you are there, I did my own, just drill the upper rivets, and press the lower ones out.

07-21-2009, 09:27 AM	#18
wahlie Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: milford,ct Posts: 95	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms yup, i'm going to redo the entire suspension plus press out the old ball joints...



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10-09-2009, 10:37 AM	#19
patthethird Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Lexington Park Md Posts: 7	Re: HOW do you remove spindles and control arms I have a 3/4 ton 67 I'm trying to get the ball joints off of. I had a hydrolic jack in between the a arms and was beating a pickle fork to death with a 5# hammer. I swear I'm not getting anywhere. I dont know what i expect y'all to say, I am just frustrated.

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