1972 Blazer Steering

[Ryanz]

Has anyone used spacers on the back to align the tires? If so, do you know if that helps the wander at all?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Has anyone used spacers on the back to align the tires? If so, do you know if that helps the wander at all?

Made no difference when I put them on the rear.

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Just tagging along here... I have a 72 Jimmy, 4x4, 4" new lift, new red head box, alignment complete and after a very frustrating 1.5 years I'm still chasing the front end all over on anything other than a straight road. The only thing that's not new is the steering column.... so I just ordered one. I have sway bars still sitting pretty in their boxes but no idea how to fab them up to work

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Moving this to where I should have posted to start with:I asked about my front driver's side wheel sticking out 1" further than the passenger side.
This from Hemi43:
Measure the distance from the inside of the front tire to the side of the frame. If the measurements are the same, then this will rule out the axle being shifted to one side. I would then look at the front sheet metal being off location. (rotted/broken body mounts or rad support.)

[SeventyOne]

I think we'd like to see several pics of your axle, spring perches, axle tubes, and steering linkages to start. Pics of your tire stickout as well general fender/panel fitment may help as well. Plus those measurements asked for above.

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Here's some pics I just took tonight to see if anyone notices anything wrong that would make my steering "dart back and forth" as others described above. I'll do the measurement as Hemi43 suggested tomorrow

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Yes Sir, I'll wear ya'll out with photos tomorrow after work. It's darker than dirt here now

[hemi43]

I can't see any issues in the pictures. I know you said you had the front aligned already, but i would measure the toe-in to see where it's at. If the alignment shop used factory specs, you won't have enough toe-in. With your large tires I would aim for 3/16". I'm sure everyone is tired of me saying this, but increase your caster with angled shim blocks. The more caster you have, the better your truck will go down the road. (within reason) I have 6 1/2 degrees.

Edit; I just re-read your post and see you have a redhead box. If this is a fast ratio, that may cause some problems, IMO.

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Thank you and I'm never tired of hearing a potential solution! I will certainly set it to your recommended specs. The Jimmy steered the same when I bought it, so I thought installing the new gear box would fix it. Unfortunately it did nothing good or bad.
Two different body shops with frame machines said the frame is good with no signs of damage or altercation. All the spring perches are original and measure correctly. All that to say, you have to be right.

[SeventyOne]

Can we see pics of the spring perches and the tire stick out you mentioned?

Assuming all this is good - I'm inclined to agree that it's your toe in setting and possibly caster as mentioned.

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Trying to get the pics to load...

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

This was the best way I could show how the driver's wheel sticks out approximately an inch further than the passenger side.

[jaros44sr]

grasping at straws here, but do you have a quick ratio steering box and are the u bolt nuts on the steering dampner tight, the pic looks like there is wear on both sides, couldn't blow up the pic large enuff to tell

does that bolt look like its going into the center of the leaf spring in the fifth pic

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Here's the Redhead gear(steering) box info for what I put in:
2851: 1968 – 1976 PICKUPS, SUBURBANS, BLAZERS 4X4
Rated 5.00 out of 5 based on 1 customer rating(1 customer review)
From $266.00
PART #2851. Fits most 1968 – 1976 Chevy and GMC Pickups, Suburban’s and Blazers 4WD. This steering gear has a large input shaft, large piston, NOTCHED SECTOR SHAFT (clamp style pitman arm), flair fittings and is the pickup style mount. If you have a sector (output) shaft that the pitman arm is held on with a nut and washer then you the 2WD steering gear, our part number 2850. You can either order this steering gear and change your pitman arm or you can order the 2850.
This gear comes stock as the 15:1 ratio (3 to 3.5 turns lock to lock). If you would the 18:1 ratio (4 – 4.5 turns lock to lock) please order 2851 4T.

On another note: I measured from the inner tire to the frame as per Hemi43's suggestion and the driver's side is 1/2" further to the outside than the passenger. Looks like 2", so maybe the front driver's side finder is causing the illusion.

...and Yes Sir, the bolt is somehow bent at the end. No telling how those morons did that?

[SeventyOne]

Can we see the axle tubes and the spring perches on the axle.

Also its still a 6 lug truck, right?

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Yes it's a 6 lug

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Last one

[simicrintz]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I think we'd like to see several pics of your axle, spring perches, axle tubes, and steering linkages to start. Pics of your tire stickout as well general fender/panel fitment may help as well. Plus those measurements asked for above.

Can you get one where we can see the linkage and the pitman arm? Like from the front of the truck looking back.

[A1971Blazer]

It looks like you've covered every possibility and.....
maybe you have...but did you check to see if the axle tube on the passenger side is bent?
At some point in it's life....it may have taken a hit...?

[jaros44sr]

Do you have a second person to turn the steering wheel while you look underneath for any movement

Are all four wheels and tires the same? But, my eclipse hated different tires on the back axle

[SeventyOne]

I'd also try to measure rim width. That tire stick out is weird...

Did you install the rims/tires or buy it with those on there?

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Tires/wheels came with the truck. Tires are the same and the wheels appear to be the same, but if I have to I will have them removed to measure.

I'll have my wife turn the steering wheel while under it again, in case I missed something before.

I did check the steering stabilizer tightness and it was good. I thought about taking it off, just for the "why not" sake of trying something.

I'm going to get the toe-in and caster adjusted as suggested as quickly as possible and will rotate the tires just in case a tire is bad (highly unlikely).

[Blazerowner]

Measure your spindle and everything when you have it apart. The tires should be the same on both sides and that variance is odd. You can take a measurement from the knuckle to the mounting point for the rim and see if it is longer than the other side. It could also be the backspacing on the rim. If it’s the rim replace them. Measure your knuckle distance from where it mounts on the tube and the ball joints mount. I doubt it’s that but who knows. I’ve seen worse.

[Blazerowner]

I just checked my kick out on the tires using the straight edge and they are nearly identical on both sides. Definitely figure out what’s up with that variance. I bet that’s your problem.

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

Is this the correct ratio for the steering box?: 15:1 ratio (3 to 3.5 turns lock to lock)

Will do Blazerowner, thanks