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Old 05-15-2002, 04:02 PM   #1
Ed ke6bnl
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Red face One wire alt and the old wires.

Hate to rehash an old topic but I seem to have lost the post. I have a One wire alt. for my boys 70 chevy truck, I want to put in on and get rid of the external voltage reg and someone had mentioned that you need to jumber some of the connection at the plug where the voltage regulator is removed from. Thanks for the help on the wiring for the change over. Ed ke6bnl

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Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce
70 S.E. Los Angeles
70 Chevy short bed
Sorry 50 F1 pu
Sorry 63 Ford Econoline pu
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Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce
70 S.E. Los Angeles
70 Chevy short bed
1948 F3 ford pu
1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor
1950 F1 pu street rod
1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear
1972 El Camino 4" chop
1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver
1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift
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Old 05-15-2002, 04:54 PM   #2
71Chev
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Jumper red to blue. White to brown.

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  • 71 Chevy CST Long Fleet 350/350/3.07 leaf rear.
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Old 05-15-2002, 09:31 PM   #3
Longhorn Man
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If it is a true one wire, all you need to do is run the wire to the battery.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
E-mail longhornmail@yahoo.com
My name is Andy...not Randy...I'm in Ohio...Not Illinois...close enough?
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Old 05-16-2002, 09:24 AM   #4
72step
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I just got a brand new one-wire in from Jegs. Now what's the correct way to do this so I can still keep my alternator gauge working properly? By jumping those above mentioned wires?? Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance..........
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:00 AM   #5
BobbyK
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I installed a 140 amp 1 wire alt. about 9 months ago with no problems so far.Here's what I did.
I bought a conversion kit from Chevy Duty(part #52-896,$14.95,page 48 of thier catalog).You can easily make your own jumper wires though.

The connector above jumps the blue wire to the pink and the yellow wire to the brown.

Here is what the inside of that connector looks like.


All I did with the orig. wiring was tape the ends well with electrical tape and fasten them aside.There will still be 12 volts to those old wires so make sure they are taped well!Leaving the old wires makes it easy to swap back to a regulat alt. should I have problems with the 1 wire alt.


Here is the 1 wire alt installed.I made the wire going from the alt. to the battery out of 2 gauge welding cable(overkill I know)But I'll never have to worry about that wire being too small!


The 1 wire alt. is a 140 amp. but here is what it actually puts out.Summit racing has them for somthing like $169.00.



------------------
"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.




[This message has been edited by BobbyK (edited May 16, 2002).]
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71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension.
Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI.
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:31 AM   #6
72step
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Thanks for the pics.
Does your alt gauge still work???
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Old 05-16-2002, 11:39 AM   #7
BobbyK
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Yup,works great.

------------------
"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.


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71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension.
Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI.
See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE
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Old 05-16-2002, 12:35 PM   #8
mikep
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I just bought one from a dealer in dallas TX. I'll post the adress when I get home but the name of the joint is Alterstart. Its the exact same one wire 135 amp unit summit sells but for $100 less . I paid $65 delivered. If I could just figure out how to get the ammeter to work with it I'd be happy . He's also got brand new permanent magnet delco gear reduction starters for 168 tooth flywheels for $105 delivered. They work great!

heres the website
www.4alterstart.com


[This message has been edited by mikep (edited May 16, 2002).]
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Old 05-16-2002, 02:06 PM   #9
71Chev
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I also got my 135 amp alt from alterstart. Not a one wire. But it was $57 shipped. No problems and nice people to deal with.

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  • 71 Chevy CST Long Fleet 350/350/3.07 leaf rear.
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Old 05-16-2002, 02:42 PM   #10
BobbyK
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Hey Mikep,are those two 4 amp fuses intact at the front corners of your hood.They need to be good for the voltmeter to work.

------------------
"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.


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71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension.
Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI.
See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE
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Old 05-16-2002, 04:47 PM   #11
Ed ke6bnl
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Talking

I really appreciate the fast response to my question and the web site for proven quality alternators. Sure beats trying to fight my way through those tiny wiring diagrams to get it right. I had to go that route for my 63 econoline that I replaced the generator with a chevy one wire alt./ Ed and Son ke6bnl@juno.com Agua Dulce, So. Calif.

------------------
Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce
70 S.E. Los Angeles
70 Chevy short bed
Sorry 50 F1 pu
Sorry 63 Ford Econoline pu
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Ed ke6bnl
Agua Dulce
70 S.E. Los Angeles
70 Chevy short bed
1948 F3 ford pu
1949 F1 stock V8 flathead 3 on floor
1950 F1 pu street rod
1948 F6 Ford Dually/350sbc no bed stock trans&rear
1972 El Camino 4" chop
1953 Chevy 3100 2b daily driver
1970 SB 4X4 400ci 6in lift
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Old 05-16-2002, 07:12 PM   #12
mikep
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The fuse dont have anything to do with it. The one wire alternator doesnt use the voltage regulator at all. Its not disconnected because it doesnt need to be but without some input to the ammeter that charging is going on all it sees is discharge from the accesories. If it were a voltmeter it would be a different story but short of running the entire charging line from the alternator through the ammeter and back to the battery which doesnt seem that appealing to me given the super reliable nature of this alternator I dont see any way of wiring it up to work and I wire stuff and diagnose electrical faults for a living.
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Old 05-17-2002, 09:47 AM   #13
72step
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Okay, Let's get this straight. If I jump the wires at the voltage regulator like BobbyK says, will my alt-meter on my dash work properly??? Thanks again..............
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Old 05-17-2002, 01:17 PM   #14
mikep
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I tried wiring mine like that but it wouldnt work. my ammeter shows discharge but no charge. It cant possibly show a charging condition unless the field coil on the charging side of the ammeter is energized and the only way to do that is to run the alternator output through the ammeter and then to the battery. Thats certainly possible to do but if you are running the one wire from the alternator to the battery directly then theres no possible way it could energize the field coil to pull the needle to the charging side of the gauge as current flow in that direction would never occur in the gauge. If you hook up the old red wire that went to the alternator to the charging post on the alternator and jumper your wires like mentioned where they went into the old voltage regulator then your ammeter will work but you will be running your full charging current through your dash. I prefer a voltmeter instead so I dont have to do that. Ive seen more than one ammeter cause an electrical fire . The problem here being that the circuit and the gauge are sized for a 40 amp alternator that was original eqpt and if your'e under a heavy battery load with the one wire 140 amp unit there is the definite possibility of overloading the circuit and causing a fire. Even automotive electrical circuits should be sized 20% over the maximum expected generator capacity or load capacity.

[This message has been edited by mikep (edited May 17, 2002).]
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Old 05-17-2002, 01:22 PM   #15
nroden
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Why are you all useing such high powered alternators? I have always heard that on these trucks with all the orignal accessories on all you need is a 40. If you have some extras (CB, new stereo, extra lights, ect) to get a 60. Just a base truck with no ACC needs a 30. Am I wrong or right or whats the deal?

------------------
Nick Rodenberg
Wellington, MO
http://nickrod.port5.com
You can click on "My 72 Chevy Truck"
I have a 72 Cheyenne 10 with a V8 350 and a TH-350 auto-tranny.
Ochre/White/Ochre
Runs well... working on body.
Plan to get painted weekend before memorial day weekend.
Planned to be done March 7 when I turned 16. Didn't happen. Chose to do better job and be behind schedule instead of 1/2 doing it and it looking like junk.

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white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior
Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!!
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Old 05-17-2002, 03:32 PM   #16
mikep
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bright lights, loud stereo, maybe even a camper on the back . Ive even got an arc welder I can run off the battery for off road repairs not to mention an inverter for camping. The demands on automotive electrical systems were a lot simpler in the 60's.
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Old 05-17-2002, 04:07 PM   #17
Chevyc10!
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So from what I am reading, there is no need to do anything to the old wires. Just run the one wire to the batt. and your done. If so, why do all the other mess with the factory wires?

------------------
68 SWB
The Surgeon General doesn't say anything about smoking a Ford!!!
Would rather be ran over repeatedly by a Chevy than drive a Ford!!!

Paralyzed from the neck up and confined to a hat!

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The Surgeon General doesn't say anything about smoking a Ford!!!
Would rather be ran over repeatedly by a Chevy than drive a Ford!!!

Paralyzed from the neck up and confined to a hat!

Kathleen, Georgia USA
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Old 05-17-2002, 04:35 PM   #18
mikep
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thats right. one wire to the battery and your'e done. you dont even need to disconnect the old regulator . Just tape up the old alternator wires or cut them and your done. I ran a wire from the alternator to hot on the starter for a clean install.
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Old 05-21-2002, 11:38 PM   #19
nroden
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So what if nothing has changed on my truck since 72?

------------------
Nick Rodenberg
Wellington, MO
http://nickrod.port5.com
You can click on "My 72 Chevy Truck"
I have a 72 Cheyenne 10 with a V8 350 and a TH-350 auto-tranny.
white/ochre/white/ochre
ochre/saddle interior
Runs well... working on body.
Plan to get painted weekend before memorial day weekend.
Planned to be done March 7 when I turned 16. Didn't happen. Chose to do better job and be behind schedule instead of 1/2 doing it and it looking like junk.

__________________
Nick Rodenberg
72 Cheyenne 10 V8 350/TH350
white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior
Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!!
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Old 05-21-2002, 11:38 PM   #20
nroden
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So what if nothing has changed on my truck since 72?

------------------
Nick Rodenberg
Wellington, MO
http://nickrod.port5.com
You can click on "My 72 Chevy Truck"
I have a 72 Cheyenne 10 with a V8 350 and a TH-350 auto-tranny.
white/ochre/white/ochre
ochre/saddle interior
Runs well... working on body.
Plan to get painted weekend before memorial day weekend.
Planned to be done March 7 when I turned 16. Didn't happen. Chose to do better job and be behind schedule instead of 1/2 doing it and it looking like junk.

__________________
Nick Rodenberg
72 Cheyenne 10 V8 350/TH350
white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior
Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!!
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