Searching for wisdom

[travisjoe]

I am in the market for a 4x4 Suburban in which I would like to someday put a diesel engine into. In the past I have settled for vehicles rather than finding the one I absolutely want, and have overlooked things like rust when blinded by "potential". I share a daily with my wife and don't have a healthy budget so I have plenty of time to avoid mistakes. What are some things to look out for and how can I determine "what its worth".

[zac]

Check out the suburban-specific sheet metal. Patch panels are available for some of it, but not all. Make sure you are familiar with what is available before you even start looking. The floor aft of the front seat can be a problem. IMO a clean body is the key, I'm not sure I'd even worry about the 4x4 chassis, that can be dealt with. Don't overlook rust. I own the world's rustiest 4x4 '72 burb (it's a parts truck now). It's easy to get excited in the beginning but it's quite a letdown when you finally realize it's just not fixable.

Hard to assign value. What you are willing and able to pay is the bottom line. Not trying to be cute, just not that many of these around anymore.

[Tim240Z]

A long way for you, but here is one on the left coast:
(non mine)
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2540819261.html

[Average Joe]

Like Tim240Z suggested set your sights out west. I see 67-72 Burbs for sale fairly often in So. Oregon and N. California. They tend to have less rust than those from the east coast or midwest. 2wd models definitely out number the 4x but like zac stated a 4x chassis from a pickup can be made to fit under a burb.

[vectorit]

Like the others have already noted - I agree. Start with the most rust free burb you can find. My experience has been that body shops fear a rusty classic burb, before a rusty pick up or Blazer and will show it in their estimate for repairs. Personally I believe its a certain negative stigma that classic burbs and panels carry, and only professional shops will just look at the repairs and not the vehicle - but those guys demand a higher premium.

I would add that if you are planning a diesel 4x4 burb project, I would hunt down a 70 to 72 K20.

70's may have drums up front, but may come with other features the 67-69's didn't.

71-72 will have the discs up front, and carry more opportunity for options.

K-20 for the sturdy chassis and axles, since once you put a big diesel in there you are gonna want beef.
Though if you find a solid K10, buy it knowing that you are gonna want to upgrade to K20. If you are a scrounger, one could get 8 lug axles fairly cheap.

There are a few guys on here that have some really nice diesel conversions going on, and I suggest checking out the build threads for such projects to see what kind of work they are doing.

Keep us updated on your hunt, because all of us tend to keep an eye out for our kin and let you know of a possible opportunity once we figure out what you are shopping for.

[eyebuzz]

All great tips above - just want to back you up on getting the vehicle you want versus just settling for something. It makes it easier to spend the money when it's truly something you care about. Should be some good buys out there these days - do a Google Alert or look at the national Craigs List services to find a wide range of prices - you see a lot of crazy prices...but it evens out when you look enough and you'll have a good idea of what one will be worth.

[Longhorn Man]

shipping from the left coast can be as little as 1000 bucks.
classics life a long rust-free(ish) life over there
1000 bucks won't fix SQUAT in a body shop, and it'll get you just a little more than squat if doing it yourself.
DON'T get a rust bucket. Like you said, you have time.

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

shipping from the left coast can be as little as 1000 bucks.
classics life a long rust-free(ish) life over there
1000 bucks won't fix SQUAT in a body shop, and it'll get you just a little more than squat if doing it yourself.
DON'T get a rust bucket. Like you said, you have time.

I agree with Longhorn Man. East Coast / West Coast shipping is NO BIG DEAL if you are buying something you really want for a good price. I've bought and sold coast to coast SEVERAL times with no issues and no damage to my vehicles. $1000 is about the average coast to coast. NC to Boston $500, South Florida to NC $500. NC to Nashville $300. He's called me with a driver ready to pickup in as little as 4 hours. My broker is pretty well tuned into quite a few national dispatch companies, but sometimes it takes a week or so to get it picked up. Just depends on your location. I am at an intersection to multiple cross country interstates, so mine is pretty easy.

These days, I would RATHER ship a car, than take time out of my busy schedule to go pick it up. AND when you factor gas prices, airfare, hotel... You couldnt pick it up and drive it home that cheap! (not to mention the stress of worrying that something is going to break down if you are driving it)