Lifter clacking

[dracko]

My relatively fresh, rebuilt 327 seems to have a failed lifter. The engine probably only has 200 miles on and has been running flawlessly since break-in. I changed the oil right after break in and again at 100 or so miles. Used Brad Penn break-in oil.

Yesterday I noticed a ticking sound, thought maybe an exhaust leak but quickly heard a lifter clacking away. #2 cylinder and only that cylinder.

Wondering if I should change all the lifters or just that one?

Don’t want to do the work and then have another one go, but they were decent comp cam lifters so not sure .
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[jayoldschool]

Before you do anything, try a new rocker nut on that rocker. I had one on my truck that wouldn't stay tight. Lash it, it was quiet. It would back off within 100 miles. New nut, lashed, it's been good for almost five years.

[toolboxchev]

First of all who's product did you use? Second use this motor oil: Valvoline VR1, I have close to 100k on a flat tappet top end rebuild.

Had the same thing happen, was an exhaust gasket at first. Comps lifters were very noisy for a while for about 20 k.

Right after rebuild I had to re-adjust the lifters 2 times.

[burnin oil]

Alot of solid cams have a coating on them that wears off during break in. After this coating is gone and as the parts wear together the lash will increase so it is common to reset lash not to long after run in. Rocker nuts have a pinched thread that Is basically like using a nylok fastner so it doesn't come loose. If the rocker nuts are used its possible that the threads have distorted and need replaced with a new one. On a hydraulic cam the nut would be suspect since the lifter takes account for wear. Another possability is a stud pulling loose from the head. Its pretty easy to look at rhe rocker arm and stud heights and see a problem forming. Pay attention to the valve keepers also.

[dracko]

Thanks for all the replies and advice.

To confirm it’s not rocker arm/nut related I think I’ll swap arms with #4 cylinder and see if it remains.

I don’t believe the nut has lost its locking ability because it’s only ever been set the one time (like all of them) and it doesn’t back off at all. The clacking doesn’t go away and then return after adjusting...it’s always there. Only time it isn’t making the noise is if I put downward pressure with a socket on the locknut essentially collapsing the lifter more?

In regards to VR1, that stuff is the best. I run it in my old triumph mc and it seems to do a great job. What viscosity are you running?

I wondered if the stud had pulled loose a tad but is the same height as the rest.
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[Ironangel]

It's not uncommon for a lifter to go bad or clog up keeping it from pumping up. You can either replace it or dismantle the bad one and clean it. If it don't clean up and restore the sprung preload, toss it and replace it. This is all assuming your running a hydraulic cam. I run VR1 10w-30 in both my 72 Chevy's, I have to buy it online because the parts stores seem to only stock the 20w-50 VR1...Good oil! Good luck...If you wind up replacing the lifter, give the bottom of it a smear of the dark Moly Lube grease before dropping it in the hole to help it mate up with the cam lobe.

[burnin oil]

I had a clack one time that I couldn't find and it was a hammered valve keeper about to let loose. I also had a rocker arm that a pushrod went through.

For oil i use diesel oil. Delvac is usually under $15 a gallon. Its not as good as the high end stuff but its cheap and readily available. Not to mention I have diesels also. Been working in my solid cam 400sb for atleast 5 years now. Tons of 7-8k rpm shifts and lots of idle time in traffic also.

[dracko]

Right on thanks for the tips fellas, I just swapped in come 10w30 comp cams break in oil so I’ll use that up and then go to the VR1, I had planned on eventually going to that oil since it’s been good to my bike.

Time to pull the intake and take a look see.

Burninoil, how does a valve keeper get hammered? You think I should pop the springs off and take a look?
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[burnin oil]

The grooves that lock the valve get ate up. Look really close at the valve stem relative to the keeper and you will see the vale stem sinking or the keepers raised like they want to pop out.withba keen eye you can see it without pulling anything apart. Its also possible that the keepers where not fully seated when rebuilt and that will tear them up also. Like outlined there is alot of diagnosis that can be done prior to pulling the intake.

[Tom]

I always had a ticky rocker I thought in high school. It was the cam going flat on one lobe only. Since you just broke the cam in, its something to consider.

[dracko]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

The grooves that lock the valve get ate up. Look really close at the valve stem relative to the keeper and you will see the vale stem sinking or the keepers raised like they want to pop out.withba keen eye you can see it without pulling anything apart. Its also possible that the keepers where not fully seated when rebuilt and that will tear them up also. Like outlined there is alot of diagnosis that can be done prior to pulling the intake.

Ok I’ll take a look at that as well but pulled the manifold lastnight to swap the lifter out.
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[dracko]

Originally Posted by Tom

I always had a ticky rocker I thought in high school. It was the cam going flat on one lobe only. Since you just broke the cam in, its something to consider.

Yeah that’s definitely a possibility, I just used a cheap Summit brand cam....but was sure to use the assembly lube and follow the break-in procedures.

I hopefully have it all back together by weeks end so I’ll know if it was actually the lifter.
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[dracko]

Well I’m still stumped.

I replaced the lifter I thought was causing the noise. Didn’t fix it. Decided to replace the springs as well, you know how much that accomplished.

I guess I’m going to take the exhaust manifold off and check the gasket....but I can’t understand why a engine with 100 miles on it would suddenly blow out a chunk of gasket...they’re ramhorns and brand new.

Then I’ll pull the fuel pump off and run it without because the noise is coming from that general area.
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[Boog]

Over my many years I have had two fuel pumps start clacking and sound just like a lifter peck. The springs in them some times get weak and the peck starts.
The fuel pump pushrod mates with the cam right next to the #2 cylinder lifter so that's where the sound is.
This does not explain why the pecking subsided when you pushed down on the rocker nut though.

[geezer#99]

I found an intermittent click once that turned out to be a pushrod rattling against an intake bolt that was too long. Can’t remember which one though.

[dracko]

Originally Posted by Boog

Over my many years I have had two fuel pumps start clacking and sound just like a lifter peck. The springs in them some times get weak and the peck starts.
The fuel pump pushrod mates with the cam right next to the #2 cylinder lifter so that's where the sound is.
This does not explain why the pecking subsided when you pushed down on the rocker nut though.

Thanks Boog, that gives me some hope that it’s the fuel pump. But I agree, it is strange the the noise left when messing with the rocker arm nut... That’s one reason I’m leaning towards something to do with exhaust, cuz it was the #2 exhaust valve I thought was tapping. But it also doesn’t seem like an exhaust leak because it doesn’t fade when warmed up like I’ve seen before....and it sounds mechanical. We’re heading out camping this morning so I’ll only be able to ponder it for another 5 days.
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[dracko]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I found an intermittent click once that turned out to be a pushrod rattling against an intake bolt that was too long. Can’t remember which one though.

Interesting. I did take a real loooong look at the 2 pushrods in 2 cylinder and they didn’t show any signs of wear or rubbing.
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[Captainfab]

Check to see if those rocker studs are pulling out of the head. I had that happen on a rebuild a few years ago. If the heads were baked as part of the cleaning process that can loosen up the cast iron around the rocker studs just enough to cause an issue.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Check to see if those rocker studs are pulling out of the head. I had that happen on a rebuild a few years ago. If the heads were baked as part of the cleaning process that can loosen up the cast iron around the rocker studs just enough to cause an issue.

^^^THIS!^^^

[dracko]

Well this has been a great lesson for me. After pulling the Intake manifold and replacing the lifters on #2 cylinder, then removing the fuel pump and rigging a contraption to run it without the fuel pump, still ticking, swapped the exhaust manifold doughnut, still ticking, then finally swapped the manifold gaskets and bingo! The gasket on the #2 cylinder had slid out of place when I installed it and just decided to start ticking. I was convinced it was a metal on metal noise. John Wayne’s old saying is true: life’s hard, life’s harder when you’re stupid
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[cadillac_al]

I think John Wayne said that, glad the tick is gone.