Need advice on a removed 350

[msg]

I am doing a restoration on my 66 and its my first time dealing with alot of things. Body repair, welding, sandblasting, engine and trans pulling, etc. The goal is to have a nice clean running truck, not looking to hod rod it or do any drastic modifications.

The engine that I pulled is a 350 that was within the last few years connected to a 700r4 that I had a garage swap out the powerglide for. Loved the difference it made! The engine has run good for many years since Ive owned it since 96. The engine doesnt seem to burn alot of oil, hasnt leaked oil that Ive seen besides whats on the engine..never dripped down to the driveway. There has been in the past some ticking noises at higher speeds that as I have taken to garages to look at they always said the header gaskets needed replacing and I would pay them to do that and it still seemed to do it. This truck has never been a daily driver, just a few trips around 30 miles a week.

Before I started taking things apart I did a compression test..

#8=150
#6=150
#4=150
#2=150
#1=145
#3=145
#5=150
#7=145

Since I dont have engine rebuilding experience or many of the tools to do it, I wondered what I should do with the engine besides cleaning it up and repainting? What things should I maybe do now while its on a stand?




Here is a thread I started a few years ago when I just wanted to know what I had under the hood. Turned out to be a 350.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=565445

[cableguy0]

First thing would be to remove the valve covers and check for sludge build up in the engine. If everything looks clean and given you have decent compression numbers I would pull the intake and reseal. Find yourself a set of aluminum valve covers to remove any leaks. Taking a look in the lifter valley will also tell you a lot about the engine. You might as well fix whatever oil leaks it has now. You have super easy access to everything on the engine. Things like a rear main seal or an oil pan thoroughly suck to do in the vehicle. Roll the engine over on the stand and your staring at the oil pan and its real easy to do the gaskets.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Now would be a good time to take a look at the timing chain. That is the weakest link on these engines.

[jjzepplin]

Freeze plugs- Oil pump -timing chain and gears kit front and rear seal are what I did to mine and it purrs nice and has no leaks. Wish I would have done the valve seals too but I was doing this all outdoors and was in a time crunch from the rain.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

If you go to pull the oil pan its a good idea to drop it down before you turn the engine over in the stand. This way any oil & crud that is left in the bottom of the pan will get into the engine. Like Cable O says, if the engine is full of sludge or caked with dried oil it is time for an overhaul or new engine.

[msg]

Ok fellas, took the valve covers and oil pan off and took some pics. Great tip Wrenchbender on removing the oil pan before turning. There sure was alot of coolant left in there, and turning that stand would have probably been impossible if I hadnt slathered a lot of grease in that tube it rotates in.

Here are the pics.






Look ok?

[jjzepplin]

Looks pretty clean to me! Rock on!

[cableguy0]

You at least know the oil was changed regularly. Doesn't look bad at all.

[Coley]

Definitely 'ditto' on the timing chain and gearset....easy, inexpensive upgrade at this point.
As well, the oil pump too is very good consideration.
All Good
Coley

[msg]

In order to remove the timing cover to check the chain, do I need to remove the harmonic balancer? If so, is there anything to watch out for in terms of how that affects the timing? Dont want to screw that up.

[cableguy0]

You need a harmonic balancer puller set. Even a cheap set will get the job done. If you have a harbor freight nearby they have a set really cheap. The balancer only goes on one way. The timing chain needs to be aligned properly. It will be easier if before you remove the balancer that you bring the line on the balancer up to the 0 mark on the timing tab. At that point once you get everything apart you will just pull the chain and install the new one with the marks oriented the same way. The gears on the chain have dots that will either end up with the cam at 6 oclock and crank at 12 oclock which will be the dots pointing at each other. They can also both be at 12 oclock depending on which stroke your on.

[msg]

Set it to 0



then got the cover off and this is the amount of play and the condition of things




All seem good, or replace all with a kit?

[jjzepplin]

That's not too bad but since your in there...

[shawno72]

Sub'd

[cableguy0]

That is an aftermarket double roller timing chain. It currently looks like its set 4 degrees advanced. It has some wear but not stretched out by any means. Its also likely you have an aftermarket cam as well.There is no reason at all to advance a stock cam 4 degrees because the power band is already low. BY advancing a cam 4 degrees you move the powerband down roughly 500rpm. Retard it 4 degrees and it will move it up roughly 500rpm. Lots of variables involved but that's in general. That engine was definitely rebuilt at some point and it looks like they used decent stuff. One thing I do see is that the harmonic balancer looks ancient. Replace it. The timing chain wouldn't hurt especially since your already in there. Just replace it with something of equal or better quality with the capability to advance the cam. Also don't confuse cam timing with your ignition timing they are completely separate.

[msg]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

Retard it 4 degrees and it will move it up roughly 500rpm.

One thing I do see is that the harmonic balancer looks ancient. Replace it.

The timing chain wouldn't hurt especially since your already in there. Just replace it with something of equal or better quality with the capability to advance the cam.

Also don't confuse cam timing with your ignition timing they are completely separate.

If I were to just replace the timing chain and balancer would that be enough?
What are good quality parts for those?

I'm afraid I'll louse something up if I attempt to mess with the timing, cause I had no idea there was a difference between cam and ignition timing. Anytime I tried messing with timing it involved a timing light and loosening the distributor and rotating to advance or retard. Not very knowledgable on this stuff yet beyond that.

[cableguy0]

The cam and crank are in "time" with each other. The crank spins twice for every one time the cam spins. The cam timing relates to when the valves are opening in relation to where the crank is. As the piston moves down the intake valve opens and as the piston moves up the exhaust valve opens. That's two of the four strokes. Piston down intake opens, then piston up to compress fuel air mixture. Then explosion pushes piston down then piston comes back up pushes exhaust out.

You are correct on adjusting ignition timing. Here is a chain that will replace what you have exactly. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7800 . The harmonic balancer can be had at summit also. Pioneer makes stock replacement and performance balancers. You can get what you need for under 100 bucks. You don't need sfi approved or anything fancy.

[Mr. D]

Posted via Mobile Device

[Mr. D]

In addition to a new timing chain and gear replacement, there's really no reason not to replace the rear main seal and oil pump. These are two relatively inexpensive parts that are subject to wear and are virtually impossible to replace with the engine installed. Stock pump and pickup tube should be fine (double check the length of the original pickup tube and match it.
Just my $.02
Good luck.
Posted via Mobile Device

[msg]

So my to do list at this point should be...?

1. Replace with a timing set http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7800/applications
2. Replace the oil pump
3. Replace the rear main seal (also front seal too on timing cover?)
4. Replace with aluminum valve covers (would the oil pan need
5. Replace harmonic balancer via summit or pioneer
6. Replace gaskets on valve covers, timing cover and oil pan
7. Replace freeze plugs
8. Pull the intake manifold and reseal it

Besides stripping off paint and repainting (which thats a whole other set of questions I have, what paint to use so it dont flake off and all later, etc.), are there any other steps to take before I complete the engine resto and move onto all this body work I gotta do.

On the list of things to maybe do is..

• Figure out how to retard the timing of the cam 4 degrees. Would the benefit be more power?
• Should the heads be pulled or leave em alone? Hoping to not have to, knowing me I'll goof something up. Might not be necessary

.

[cableguy0]

The timing cover set will come with the front seal. Even though you wont use the head gaskets its probably cheaper to buy the complete engine gasket set from fel pro than to buy each set individually. Aluminum valve covers are a good idea. The stock oil pan will be fine. I wouldn't bother pulling the heads. That engine looks fine. Retarding the cam timing isn't going to help you. Don't worry about doing that. Vht engine paint will work well as long as the engine is clean and oil free. Clean all the tins while they are off. After that seal everything back up and then clean the block and heads so that the inside of the engine is protected.

[Coley]

I agree with Cableguy on leaving the heads on...your compression numbers look fine.
Have you decided about the possiblity of changing the valve seals and the valve springs while you are at it?
Here is a quick video (one of many) on the ways to do it...might help out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MvH3usFkAA

Coley

[msg]

Thanks Coley, video didnt seem too tricky just need to get a new tool and a few parts.

[msg]

Starting to get a shopping list together and also figure out how to install a few things. First thing I had to do was remember the year engine this was which it was from a 1973 Chevy c-10. So when I search for parts I am using that year.

Also if Advance sells the part I usually shop there and get 30% off the order.
Hopefully these are good parts, and the right ones for my 350.


OIL PUMP
Stock or High Volume?
Also brand, is Melling a good brand?

Stock
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...hTerm=oil+pump

High Vol
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...hTerm=oil+pump

Oil Pump Screen
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...hTerm=oil+pump

I took the oil pump out and looked at the pump shaft.




I also watched this guys video on how to replace the oil pump and that the shaft should be replaced with a different type which I think it this one vs the kind with the plastic connector. Hopefully hes doing it right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmR--EYH4TQ


Shaft
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...-55g/5687837-P

Engine Gasket Kit
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...set#fragment-2

Freeze Plugs
Is there a good brand to look for on this?

Aluminum Valve Covers
These I thought look nice and arent too expensive. Anyone got these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-CHEVY-FIN...-/130750478585

[Mr. D]

Personally if you're going back stock on the motor, which makes the most sense to do, I would just stay with a stock replacement oil pump. A high volume or high flow pump could drain the oil pan at increased revs. unless you also increase the size of the sump/oil pan.
Posted via Mobile Device