2003 ext cab s10 rear brake drum help?

[Woogeroo]

2003 ext cab s10 rear brake drum help

Howdy Folks.

my mom and dad have a 2003 S10 extended cab pickup and I am trying to figure out how to get the brake drum off of the rear.

I was hearing a squealing noise when I drove it earlier this week so I figured I would check the wear pads and the shoes. That is how I got started on this project.

I included some pictures...

Any and all advice is welcomed.

I've done the brakes on my '65 c10 and never had this issue... for that matter I never had this problem on dad's '85 s10 extended cab.

Thanks.

-W

[corn]

I just had the drums off of my '96 a couple weeks ago. A pry bar on each side & work them back & forth a little at a time.

[BarryB]

Yeap, the drums can be a pain to get off at times. Typically rusting/corroding around the axle flange. Thats where its holding at. Take corns advice wiggle it off with prybars. Hopfully the shoes are not hanging on the drum, then you'll need to back the shoes off to hopefully get clearance enough to remove the drum.

[Woogeroo]

Thanks folks...

... the problem I was having was trying to figure out where the access is to get at the adjuster to loosen it up.

I was also getting kind of irritated with it so I decided to stop messing with it.

-W

[Woogeroo]

I tip tapped the drum with a mighty sledge and the drum came loose finally.

Whew!

Ya'll were right... it is definitely rusted.


I took the tab out of the backing plate where the star adjuster is in case I need access in the future.

Thanks folks.


-W

this is the left rear...

[Woogeroo]

the right rear....

... it came off without any drama.

-W

[Woogeroo]

Thanks to everyone who replied with tips and suggestions!

I put the extra pics up here in case someone can make use of them in the future.

-W

p.s. I got this tidbit from Tx Firefighter and it took care of it...

Woog, I used to work as a mechanic for the Postal Service. Those little square mail trucks called LLVs are on S10 chassis. I've seen this a whole bunch of times.

First, make sure to stick a little screwdriver in the backing plate and turn the adjuster star and loosen off the adjustment. If it is still stuck, do this...

Hit it hard in the direction of the arrow on the edge of the drum face. It will not hurt the drum I promise. I did this countless times to stuck drums and never hurt a drum or run across one that this wouldn't free up enough to pull off.

[68C15]

I used to work on the LLVs also, in Northern Illinois. you can imagine the severity of rust on the drums. I can think of 4 that actually broke doing it that way. I still suggest it though, it works best. I now use a 5lb. lead hammer hitting on the perimeter and the face with amazing success.

[Boise69]

Originally Posted by 68C15

I used to work on the LLVs also, in Northern Illinois. you can imagine the severity of rust on the drums. I can think of 4 that actually broke doing it that way. I still suggest it though, it works best. I now use a 5lb. lead hammer hitting on the perimeter and the face with amazing success.

A lead hammer is the only thing that works best, i cant imagine doing this job without one.

[68C15]

hi'ya Ted, long time no see. how's business? I'm thinking a road trip in the spring out your way would be cool.

[Boise69]

Originally Posted by 68C15

hi'ya Ted, long time no see. how's business? I'm thinking a road trip in the spring out your way would be cool.

Business is still strong, our auto plant sales have certainly dropped, most of our machine shop sales have dropped by 15-20% bu all in all no real complaints. More and more are finding our hammers through our new website and other new distributors so its all good

if you swing down this way just give me a heads up we'll definately meet up.

[Woogeroo]

Howdy folks.

So, I recently actually had to perform the rear brake job on this truck... and I learned something is different from my '65 c10, the hard way.



That circled area there, that is the 'hook' looking thing that the parking brake thingy hooks into that triangle slot in the brake shoe. You have to hold it and the shoe away from each other, then it slides right in, easy as pie, then you slide 'em together to lock it in place. It is a simple wiggle/parts dance thing, if you know to do this. If not, it's kinda irritating.

Then the two parts shoe and park brake lever are nice and flush.

This was making me crazy the other day... I had a book on it and everything... and watched a internet video too! They both failed to mention this.

So, anyways... in case someone in the future is wondering 'what!!?' and they wander in here, I add this little tid bit.

On my '65 C10, that part has a clip on it, so... it's been too long since I worked on anything 'new'.

-W

[Woogeroo]

Since I know we all love photos, here are a few extra ones of the internal passenger side rear drum, from this week :









-----

-W

[68C15]

you didn't replace the wheel cylinders ?!

[72bowtiestepper]

My drums always used to rust up like that.....Now when I re-assemble, I smear some Anti-seize compound on the axle flange where it meets the brake drum....no more rust= easy removal the next time.