Steering column rebuild kit, anyone make them?

[Trucknut57]

Did a search but couldn't find what I'm looking for.

I'm getting ready to rebuild my steering column (68 C10, non-tilt, automatic) and started looking for a kit to rebuild it, but all I can find is individual pieces.

Does anyone actually sell a complete rebuild kit or do I have to piece meal all the parts and hope I can find the pieces?

Thanks.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The lower brg. comes in a kit. It has the brg., collar & spring in it. The rest you will have to buy the pieces you need.
George

[Trucknut57]

Thanks George.

You'd think someone one would put a kit together, wonder how many they would sell.

Guess it's time to get off here and start hunting down some parts.

[Trucknut57]

I knew once I started looking for parts I would have questions, so hopefully you guys can help me out.

I need to rebuild my column, I just pulled it out of the truck, a 68 C10, non-tilt, column shift. I'm pretty sure it's the original column, but want to make sure before I start ordering parts.

Be easy on me, I'm new to the C10's.

Where all the non-tilts the same for 1967 - 1972?

If not, what is the best way to identify what year the column is, if it's missing a few pieces, ie shift indicator, shift lever ?

Thanks for your help.

[Trucknut57]

Crickets...

Anybody?

[Toro]

I needed the upper bearing (the one you can see in the middle of the turn signal switch) for my '72 non-tilt. I started another thread asking for a part number or where I might find it. It didn't get any responses. I eventually found the bearing at http://www.truckandcarshop.com it listed the same part # for all 67-72 non-tilts.

[Trucknut57]

That's kind of why I've been trying to see if anyone knows how to tell the differences between them, all the parts that I am finding, that I think would be the same for all years, come back with different part numbers and I want to make sure I get the correct parts the first time.

LMC may not have the best parts sometimes but they do have the best exploded diagrams to see all the parts.

[57Suburb]

I just ordered and received the lower bearing from LMC for a 67-68 column. It is not the correct bearing. Not even close. Just a heads up.

[Trucknut57]

Originally Posted by 57Suburb

I just ordered and received the lower bearing from LMC for a 67-68 column. It is not the correct bearing. Not even close. Just a heads up.

Thanks for the heads up.

[Willys_MB]

This is on my list to do. Once you get it figured out could you post a consolidated parts list with part numbers and where you got them?

[Trucknut57]

Originally Posted by Willys_MB

This is on my list to do. Once you get it figured out could you post a consolidated parts list with part numbers and where you got them?

Heck I have to figure out which column I have before I can even think about getting parts for it

[Trucknut57]

Originally Posted by 57Suburb

I just ordered and received the lower bearing from LMC for a 67-68 column. It is not the correct bearing. Not even close. Just a heads up.

What was the part number that you got?

[Grumpy old man]

Classic parts has everything , Toss that LMC catalog in the trash.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=684915

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/6072.html

[Trucknut57]

I only use LMC for the exploded pictures, then buy the parts someplace else.

[Lugnutz65]

I cannot say for sure, but I think the lower bearing is the same from 1963-68. So don’t be too hard on me if I’m wrong, but that’s what my research tells me.
Anyway, if the lower bearing actually is the same, you’ll be better off if you upgrade to a newer style bearing LIKE THIS BRONZE BUSHING or THIS SEALED LOWER BEARING, (incorrectly labeled 1969-72). I prefer the sealed bearing. Just compare your original lower bearing to the one I rebuild in the DIY. I also show you how to rebuild your original if it’s in good shape.
I recently published a complete steering column DIY for disassembly and rebuild which may be helpful for 1967 and 1968 manual columns. LINK HERE.

[Trucknut57]

Ok, did a little surfing and came up with parts. These parts are for an non-tilt, automatic column.

57 Suburb said the lower bearing from LMC doesn't fit for the 67-68, so hopefully, maybe, someone else may see these parts and let me know if they fit or don't fit.

Lower column seal:
Ecklers - 61-213760-1 fits 67-72
Brothers - scs0072. Fits 67 - 72
H&H - 6242. Fits 67-72

Upper column seal:
Ecklers - 61-213761-1. Fits 67-72
Brothers - sccb721. Fits 67-72
H&H - 6043. Fits 67-72

Upper bearing:
Classic parts - 76-815. Fits 64-72
Brothers - uscb072. Fits 67-72
LMC - 34-0840. Fits 67-72

Lower bearing:
Classic parts - 76-823. Fits 69-72
Ecklers - 61-249928-1. Fits 60-68
Tuckers - ccb-3650. Fits 60-68
LMC - 34-0750. Fits 69-72 kit
LMC- 34-0848. Fits 67-68
H&H - 5818. Fits 69-72
H&H - 5981. Fits 60-68

I'm pretty sure the column seals all fit, but not positive since I haven't bought any of these parts.

I found way to many turn signal switches and neutral safety switches to list. I also didn't want to include prices, because the best price doesn't always mean it's the best part.

I didn't really find any other parts for the columns, so if you happen to know of any parts please post them up.

[68-Mike]

Popping this back to the top……

I'm also working on a ‘68 C10 column.....this one has a stuck shift tube. Can’t pull the shifter to the rear and it’s preventing the shift tube from moving out of park. Have the column on the bench, steering wheel off, shaft out, lower bearing off, shift lever out, but can’t figure out how to get the shift tube out of the column to look at the spring that preloads the tube. Top end is in good shape. Low end has 50yrs of dirt/oil/grease on it.

Does anyone have suggestions how to get the shift tube out? Thanks in advance!!!

Started with troubleshooting, now I think I’m on the cusp of a full rebuild. LOL!

[Lugnutz65]

Rest the bottom of column on 2 blocks of wood. The blocks should be close enough to support the edges of the main column tube but far enough apart that the shifter tube can fit between them when the time comes.

You will now drive the shifter tube downward and out of the main tube until it is free. To accomplish this, place a small block of wood on the top end of the shifter tube and press down until the spring is fully compressed. With the spring compressed, use a rubber mallet to firmly tap the block of wood you are holding. The force will gradually move the shifter tube down inside the main sleeve. These 2 photos show the shifter tube half way and then fully out. You can see the spring above the bushing that holds the shifter tube inside the main sleeve.

**Note - The T shaped piece is not touching the wood blocks. The photo makes it look that way.

[68-Mike]

Thanks for the quick reply Lugnutz!!

I got the shift tube moving (maybe 1/8"), until it was flush with the 'C' shaped part, of what looks like the cast part that also mounts the shift handle. Before I go further, what am I getting into during reassembly? How easy is it to line up the shift tube with this C-shaped lever housing during re-assembly??

[Lugnutz65]

I wrote a 4 part DIY when I rebuilt my 1963 column. An automatic column is different. Probably not very different though.
Here’s the link. It has 4 parts.
https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebl...lumn-page.html

[68 C10 Driver]

When I rebuilt my 68 C10 steering column (floor shift, non power steering), There wasn't too much to replace. I replaced the upper bearing, lower bearing just needed cleaning and repack new grease. I also purchased a new blinker switch, and just did a really good cleaning on the column.

Oh, I did go with a 65 El Camino steering wheel.

[68-Mike]

Thanks Lugnutz & 68 C10 Driver!

I see alot of similar parts in 68 C10's part pile. Mine is all apart except for the tube still being in the column. I haven't been out there to work on it yet today.
Any additional tips on how to best press the shift tube out the final inch(?)? With the end of the tube being flush with the housing, it leaves only about 1/2" of tube to press on. That's where I'm seeing the difference between the automatic and the manuals that ya'll shared.

Also, how does the 'collar' (tube around the turn signal switch) separate from the conical shape cover that is around the shift lever?

Thanks in advance! Hoping mine turns out as pretty as 68 C10 Driver's! I have the same color combo.

Thx,
Mike

[pjmoreland]

Rotate the turn signal housing until the notches in it are aligned with the bumps on the column housing. It will slide off at that point.

Once the turn signal housing is removed, the shift lever bell (the thing with the C shape in it) should slide off the shift tube.

[68-Mike]

Thank you, sir! Seems so obvious now.

[68-Mike]

I think I've got my column apart as far as I want to take it. Parts on order for the rebuild. Currently cleaning/painting the core parts.

One last question regarding a foam seal that is on the lower end of the shift tube. It's about to fall apart. Haven't tried to pull it off yet. Has anyone found any replacements for this? What' the downside of removing and not replacing?

Thanks!!