Emissions rant.

[Jurassic-1]

They never question mileage. My 66 does not even have classic plates. My friend was told he needed emmissions on his 70 pickup and he told them it was classic and they did it for him . I always get 5 year plates since they are not too expensive. My 06 Duramax also has 5 year plates and has never been smogged.

[Custom/Ten]

As far as the tach goes you could always pick up a 30$ dollar tach at the parts store and hook up the two wires under the hood so you can sit it right in front of you while you tune the carb and then unhook it when your done. Makes a handy tool. Could prolly get one from a junk yard for 5 or ten bucks.

[Jurassic-1]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Only the '70 CST and '72 Blazer would come into question, and only then if you are in Maricopa.
I found a lemon yellow ARIZ '69 plate in the garage. I had been on my Dad's '64 Olds wagon once, I think. It has '71 and '72 stickers on it. I will have to look into the legality of using it on my '71 Jimmy [K/5]. But I think the hard-nosed guy [Ex-Highway Patrol officer] at the MVD said I'd still be required for emissions checks on my '68 C/10 with my vintage plates. My old plates, from that same truck, were 1973s and not allowed as Year-of-Manufacture plates.
The other issue is that I'm with Allstate, and I would lose discounts on having both Auto and Home policies with them, if I separated the policies.

Do you have any other cars with allstate because I had them for everything and Allstate is a Hagarty dealer and you will still get all discounts. My insurance is very cheap for stated value. They do not care if you put some occasional miles on it as well as show miles.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Back in the day I bought a Sears Volts/Dwell/Tach tester. I've gone HEI and don't use dwell but I can still use the tach. Look for something like that. You might also pick up a Vacuum Meter at the auto parts store. Use it to dial in your Idle/Mixture screws. Highest reading is best. [17'' Hg @ 700 RPM for example].
Tips on cheating the ADEQ test:
1] One yellow bottle of Heet alcohol in a fresh tank of gas. Chevron is the best.
2] New PCV valve.
3] Paper air cleaner. Somehow the K&N just oozed extra hydrocarbons.
4] Gas cap. I keep a special gas cap in a plastic bag in the glove box in case I need it for testing my '68 Stepside or the '71 Jimmy. When the test is over it goes back in the bag.
5] Rainy Day. Since it's monsoon season, try to get there when it's raining.
6] Early morning. Don't try Mondays, though. The whole work-a-day world is trying to get thru on Monday morning.
7] Twelve pack of beer to entice somebody with real carb skills. You gotta find a buddy.

Good Luck

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Jurassic-1

Do you have any other cars with allstate because I had them for everything and Allstate is a Hagarty dealer and you will still get all discounts. My insurance is very cheap for stated value. They do not care if you put some occasional miles on it as well as show miles.

Thanks, I will look into it. They have all my rides: '68 C/10, '71 [K/5] Jimmy, and a '92 Subaru Legacy. I will still need to use the Jimmy as my work truck, since it goes anywhere and holds all my tools. I do not intend to make it a show pony.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

I don't like emmisions laws. If your Prius has a mil light on you fail but if your diesel passes the test your good to go. Just seems kinda silly.

I saw a video on You Tube of a guy crushing a Prius with a surplus British tank. It was cool.

[MagmaJct]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

It's all State-Run, although the Arizona Department of Environmental Quality [ADEQ] is privatized to an extent that their 'technicians' are not state employees, requiring pensions and benefits, etc. Still a monopoly, and they are not allowed to help repair. Only the manager is allowed to give you advice on how to adjust your timing and carb, etc.
One kid shoved a big mirror under my '68 C/10 Stepside, one time. "What're you looking for?" I asked. "The Catalytic Converter," he replied. "Well you've got a couple of years to wait, Pal. This is a 1968. The 'Cat' hasn't been invented yet."

It doesn't happen so much anymore, but they used to, from time to time, roll the fan up to the front of my rear engine, air cooled VW.

Originally Posted by OlSmokey

the only thing that failed on me was the idle. the hydrocarbons was 438 when it should be 400, and the carbon monoxide was 7.47 when it should have been 5. is there anything that you guys could reccomend on what to fix on my carb. i am not a pro at carb work so any help at all would be appreciated. also a little side note, i do not have a tach, so i do not what to set my idle speed at on the carb, i just set it to the point where it's smooth in the truck, but if there is any tips to setting it I would love it. thanks guys!

Your idle mixture is too rich. There are techniques to lower it that have been covered greatly on this forum.

HC is HydroCarbons. It is UNBURNED fuel. This can occur under any of the following conditions:

1. Ignition misfire.
2. Mixture too rich, combustion process RUNS OUT of oxygen, leaving unburned fuel!
3. Mixture too lean, spark plug can't fire too lean a mixture, so what HC is present goes down the exhaust. Idle will likely be rough.

CO is Carbon Monoxide. Is it PARTIALLY BURNED fuel. This can occur under any of the following conditions:

1. Mixture too rich, combustion process RUNS OUT of oxygen to make CO2, so it makes CO instead.

Because CO is PARTIALLY BURNED fuel you know it's not misfiring. If it were misfiring, the CO would be extremely low, and HC would be high.

[OlSmokey]

Oh sweet thanks MagmaJct. that was very informative thanks! any possible solutions you could think of?

[chisler]

Can you raise the GVW on your truck... I did that to my k10 and didn't have to aircare it anymore

[tsetsaf]

Smog checks piss me off too. I have a 06 Cummins that is now required to be smog checked in CA. Only problem is they don't have equipment to check smog on a diesel. They charge me $60 to lift the hood and look at the tail pipe! To add insult to injury I travel for a living and am currently working on the east coast. CA is demanding I smog the truck IN California or no tags. I am driving around with 2 month expired plates becauee of them.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Well, we found a vacuum leak under the AFB carb [9635S]. Weiand 8004 alloy intake -- set for spreadbore. First I tried a 2" phenolic riser. Lower end was better and smoother, but @ higher RPMs. kind of a hesitant ''chuffing.'' I had a leak. Hope 16 year old Carter Comp Series carb. isn't worn out with a warped bottom. My friend had an Offy Q-Jet base-to-squarebore adapter. Had to cut out a Q-Jet type gasket from thick gray paper.
Lower to manifold now, and leaks sealed up.
Felt good driving home again. Might go for it next week. Just never on a Monday.

[motorcritter]

Colorado has exemption for '75 and earlier, with a 5 year tag. My '83 Benz has to get snogged every year- opacity (soot) test. Blows clean every time, costs $55. The snot rag at the Airtest put my '97 Benz (gas engine, w/ traction control- not 4matic) on the regular roller tester, failed me because the rear brake were smoking! The ABS & TracControl did that, the pads got cooked. Official ruling, too bad- I should have told them it had to get put on the 4WD rollers! I pointed out that it's got all that info visible from the driver's seat, but to no avail. At least the trucks don't have that headache. I wouldn't mind the smog test, if competent personnel does the testing. I asked what qualifications the manager had, he said no ASE certifications, but he was authorised to run the machinery there. WTF? As to your carburettor emissions problem- make sure your float level is correct- it'll run rich enough to mess up the test. A fresh oil change helps, too.
Posted via Mobile Device

[MagmaJct]

Originally Posted by OlSmokey

Oh sweet thanks MagmaJct. that was very informative thanks! any possible solutions you could think of?

Both HC and CO readings agree, the mixture is too rich.

Mixture vs peak power, when plotted on a graph, make a nice bell curve. Too lean, less power, any leaner and you get misfire. Too rich, less power. The ideal mixture will produce the best power. (At idle, power can be implied from RPM.)

The generic procedure for adjusting the mixture on pre-computer control carbs is pretty standard. Set the idle speed as best you can. Adjust ONE mixture screw until you find the maximum RPM possible. What I wrote above makes sense as you adjust the mixture screw in and out and see what happens for yourself.

Drive it in too far, RPM drops, drive it out too far, RPM drops. Find the best position for highest RPM. Repeat for the other mixture screw if it had more than one barrel.

Now, reset the idle mixture. Rinse and repeat. You may wish to drive in the mixture screws 1/8th to 1/4th turn just increase your odds of passing your test.

Disclaimer: The above ONLY holds true IF everything is is correct. Float level, no nozzle drip, etc...

Regards,
Mike

P.S. Some people get good results from a vacuum gauge in place of a tachometer. I find I don't get enough resolution for that method.

[OlSmokey]

Awesome thank you so much!

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I think one of the stipulations of classic/collectable status, is that you are limited to about 2000 miles a year. That would generously include Sundays, 4th of July parades, car shows and vintage rallys, but not much else. If you still use it as a daily driver and work truck you're out.
Same goes for the copper Antique Vehicle plates from the MVD.
I could be wrong, and frequently am.

Each carrier has their own different set of restrictions. I don't have any problem with them. Mine has a 5000 mile per year restriction, but they don't ever ask and I have not gone past it.

[Jurassic-1]

I have 5 vehicles and 1 motorcycle insured with Hagerty.