'63 GMC 4x4 "Just Because I can" Build

[duallyjams]

That bender is nice and by the way your welds on your frame are not rusted they just have been cured at least that's what a old timer told me back in the day about metal.

[63GMCKid]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

That bender is nice and by the way your welds on your frame are not rusted they just have been cured at least that's what a old timer told me back in the day about metal.

No offense to the old timers, but welding is one of those things where a lot of people have their weird made up theories/wives' tales/myths about stuff and they are usually a bunch of BS. It's just surface rust on those welds, I finished doing that spring cross member this past summer and the frame stays outside, so it's seen plenty of rain to get surface rust. While the whole "curing" thing does have some merit, the surface rust has nothing to do with it. The "cured" state is more often referred to with cast iron, which does cure (Actually "age" is the proper term for that), and can change shape over time as it does. That's why some engine builders will go through the trouble of baking new(er) engine blocks and heads prior to machining operations, to artificially age them which helps remove stresses built up from the whole casting process, so they will be machining a block/head that is less likely to change shape when it gets heat cycled during real world use. There is a lot more geeky technical metallurgy behind all of that and I don't know all of it and don't want to make anyone too bored by going on about it.

[63GMCKid]

Anyone have a preferred driveshaft parts supplier? I know that HAD is popular around here but I want to build my own shafts. The best 2 so far that I've found have been www.drive-lines.com which is Drive Line Service of Fresno, and then www.northerndrivetrain.com which is a little pricier than DLSF but similar selection. DLSF seems to have EVERYTHING of any u joint size series. I have ordered from them before with good luck, but wondering what other options do I have out there?

Now on the driveline tech side of things, when I built my motor mount crossmember I inadvertently raised the engine/crank centerline straight up by like 2'' or 3'', so my t-case, even though its divorced and I can put it where I want, will also be higher up. It will also be further back since it's a divorced case. Well all of this means steeper rear drive shaft angles. I am only slightly concerned about running 1350 joints, but the cost difference of going to a 1410 setup at the tcase (vs 1350 parts, prices being for a flange yoke, slip yoke, and weld on slip stub shaft) for the rear shaft is only a few more bucks for parts from DLSF. However, I already have a 1350 flange yoke though, so I'd have to spend another $43 for a 1410 flange yoke.

Anyway, my question is, is it really worth it to do to 1410 at the rear output of the tcase if I don't really have to? Lets assume that a 1350 joint will be able to reliably run in this setup in a single joint configuration, but we'll say that the angle is close to being where one would switch... I also want to avoid running a CV setup if possible.

So my options the way I see it currently...

1350 joint at rear output in the single joint configuration (no CV), already have the flange yoke, don't have any more parts for the rear shaft.

1410 joint at rear output in the single joint configuration (no CV), would have to buy the flange yoke and the rest of the 1410 parts for the rear shaft. Cost of the 1410 shaft parts are only a few bucks more, but a 1410 flange yoke adds another $43 to the cost. Remember I am on a starving student budget.

1350 CV at the rear output IF a CV can be run at the slip yoke end. I'd like to not have the slip at the diff if possible, but I don't know if a CV can be used on the slip end of the shaft, can someone school me there?
I guess I am not totally against the idea of a CV joint, but for ease of maintenance and ease of repair in case of breakage is a big factor here.


I also have some questions regarding slip stubs, the idea of only having say 2.5'' - 3'' of spline on the slip stub is not very appealing to me, but is this normal? Seems like the shorter length splines would wear quicker and have more slop and potential for vibration? Most of the high end shafts I see have full length splines on the male end of the weld on slip stub, but for a DD/Trail rig/remote offroad welding rig, is something like that going to be more than enough? Does anyone know where I could get the 1.5''x16spline weld on slip stubs with full length splines?

EDIT: Also looking for a weld yoke/tube yoke that will work with 3''x.120'' wall tube, anyone know where to get one? The yokes meant to work with that wimpy .083'' wall stuff just isn't going to cut it for me.

And has anyone purchased from www.arizonadrivelines.com also known as "Drive Shaft Super Store" ? They have some of the long slip stuff that I'm after, but I remember hearing something a while back about them not being very reputable?

[helipirate]

How are you supplying hydraulic pressure to that e-brake, or are you using the ebrake portion of that caliper?

[63GMCKid]

This truck used to have a 4 speed in it, but now that I'm putting an automatic in it (TH400), the clutch pedal isn't being used... so I'll get a small master cylinder setup with the clutch pedal, and that will be used for the hydraulic portion of the e-brake caliper, and then I'll use the factory pull handle and cable for the mechanically operated part of the caliper. The factory e-brake pull handle will be used when its parked, and the clutch pedal with master cylinder will be used for doing front digs and such. It's a bit redundant, but I thought it would be a neat feature. And definitely confusing for a car thief!

[jbclassix]

Glad to see someone else who likes Eatons! I can't wait to see how your eaton/60 hybrid turns out! I would love to attempt the same thing one day. I will be following along.

[argonaut]

Awesome fabrication skills! I am jealous. Just starting to learn a lot of this on my 66 K10 build. I'll be following along to see your progress.

[Captainfab]

Any updates?

[63GMCKid]

Sorry for the lack of updates folks, I'm on spring break now so I'll be doing quite a bit more work on this truck. Did quite a bit already though, so just a quickie update for now, pictures will be uploaded tomorrow....

Extended the frame back out to factory length in the rear, had to cut off the last ~10 inches because the previous owner booger welded a hitch to it and wasn't worth trying to remove it from the frame. Used some 4''x2''x3/16'' wall rectangular tube to put the frame back out to factory length, it fit in between the frame rails perfect and I welded it all around, should be stronger than the original!

Then I got my leaf spring hangers bolted up as well as the shackle hangers. Leaf hangers are from a 2wd 3/4t 73-87 GM truck and the shackle hangers are from a 4x4 3/4t 73-87 GM truck. Using 56'' 3/4t leafs in the rear with a 4'' block. I didn't really want to use lift blocks, but I can't afford new springs right now and I didn't want to use the 73-87 4x4 leaf hangers because they hang really low and it would've looked stupid, and I've seen lots of trucks that have factory lift blocks in the rear, so I think I should be alright. And I am using the 73-87 tension shackle setup, so I don't think axle wrap will be a problem.

Also made a midplate mount from some 1/4'' 6061 aluminum, cut out on the PlasmaCAM at work, bolts between the engine and transmission and will have a poly-bushing on each side, should never have to worry about cracking a TH400 bellhousing with this midplate.

I also built that GotTrikes air/hydro tube bender since the last update, and I am very pleased with how it turned out. Still learning how to set up my bends so they are in the right places, but its super easy to work with since it bends in the vertical plane. Expect to see some tube work on this truck in future updates!

I cut up a rusted out 64/5/6 chevy cab to use as a mock-up floor and firewall, just cut the back off right below the big dimples and cut the windshield pillows a couple inches above the dash. Has a perfect unmolested dash and firewall to work with for mockup purposes, and its a large hump cab like my GMC cab, great to checking driveline to cab clearance and its light enough without the roof/back that it can be picked up and moved around easily with 2 people. I put it on my frame today after I got the Eaton back under the rear springs and back to rolling frame status again.

Tomorrow I'll be working in boxing the frame from the core support forward, since my front leaf hanger crossmember is there and that supports alot of weight, figured it would be better off if I boxed it in. I've got a badly bent 63 1/2t 2wd frame that I can cut the front end off of just ahead of the core support, perfect match for boxing in my frame. After that I'll be starting on my transfer case crossmember and transmission mount crossmember.

Pictures of the current progress should be up tomorrow!

[duallyjams]

You are using 52" spring for the front are using 56" for the rear because that's what you already had verses using 63".

[63GMCKid]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

You are using 52" spring for the front are using 56" for the rear because that's what you already had verses using 63".

Yes, 52'' half ton rear springs (more leafs added to the pack) for the front, and 56'' 3/4t rear springs for the rear. I had the 56's, and I don't need the flex of 63'' springs anyway.

Pictures are uploading now...

[63GMCKid]

Alrighty, here's the pics....


Mockup cab with bare block and empty TH400 case in place, everything clears, lots of room behind the engine!





Mid plate mount, and engine/trans to firewall/floor hump clearance



Gotta show off the aluminum welds!



Rear suspension and Eaton HO72 with disc brakes and a Detroit/No-Spin inside


Extended frame and shackle hangers, still need to plate the rectangular tube between the shackle hangers and the tube so the surface is flush with the side of the frame.



Showing off some more welding, nice beads all the way around the rectangular tube


More of welds, also note the fish mouthed frame, less likely to crack and with a longer weld, stronger overall.



They didn't come this pimped out from the factory! Awesome paint scheme (flat black and Chevy orange), and a Detroit and discs, doesn't get any better than that!



And I figured you guys might like to see this, the dash that is in my rusted out mock up cab, its probably the best dash in one of these trucks I have ever seen, totally unmolested condition with no hacked up radio holes and extra holes for other stuff. Rare find for sure!

[63GMCKid]

And here are those transfer case mount plates, everything fits up perfectly! Don't mind the funky plate bolted to one of the factory mounting bosses with 2 poly bushings, that was a failed attempt at a cool setup, going to go with a single wide poly bushing there instead of 2 angled ones.

Front...


Back...



Now I am working on the transfer case crossmember(s), since the factory divorced tcase crossmember has to come out, I needed another structural piece to add to the frame, so I cut 2.5'' square holes in the frame, going to weld in the 2.5''x1/4'' wall square tube (not yet cut to length), have holes drilled through those 2.5'' tubes, then have 2''x1/4'' wall square tube that goes through the 2.5'', and bolts will run through that as well. Should stiffen up the frame quite a bit in this area, and will serve double duty as a skid plate mount and transfer case mount. The case itself will have poly bushings, but these crossmembers are obviously solidly mounted. The individual tubes that will go up to the poly bushings will bolt into the 2'' tube after its slid through the frame. The long winded explanation may be a little difficult to picture, I've got a pic now with just some scraps of tube in place to give you a better idea of what I'm going for here. Should have this finished by tomorrow with more pics.




Finally feeling like I am making some progress on this thing, it's starting to look like a truck again! Not too long before I can put the cab back on it and start cutting up the floor to clear the transfer case.

[C@rnut001]

Great progress on your truck. I think you are doing an excellent job and your welds are awesome. Keep it up and keep the pictures coming our way.

[carslut]

nice work, i dig the ebrake setup.

[63GMCKid]

I think it's about time for some updates right?

I got some more done on my transfer case mount setup. Uses 2.5''x2.5''x.25'' square tube welded to the frame, with 2''x2''x.25'' that slides through and bolts into the 2.5''. Not completely finished with it yet though, but the pictures get the point across.



2 bolts per end on the square tube to keep from pinching the 2.5'' tube down and making it difficult to slide the tube out. Showing off my welding with this one too.


And what it looks like on the outside of the frame rail, mostly just showing off my welding again.



Since my frame had some hack job of a mount and reinforcement plate for a later model power steering box, and was cracked around a couple of the bolt holes, I decided to fix that. Plated and boxed the frame with 3/16'' plate, not completely finished as I still have to box it in from the core support forward and finish welding the passenger side boxing plate in, but the pictures get the point across. Frame is now 3/8'' thick after being plated where the steering box mounts, plus being boxed and sleeved for the bolts, so I shouldn't have any frame flex or cracking issues around the steering box anymore.

Spacers will be welded on where the bolts are to set the steering box away from the frame slightly since I don't have a formed section of frame to fit the profile of the steering box.




And of course, gotta show off the welds...



I traded a 14 bolt axle for a set of 6 of these beasts..... 12 bolt Humvee wheels with 37'' military Goodyears. Funny thing about the deal, I was under the impression I was only getting tires, when the guy showed up to pick up the axle, the tires had these wheels in them and he said he knew I wanted the wheels and he didn't feel like pulling them apart to give me just the tires. Win win situation for me, since I have another trick up my sleeve for a different set of 16.5'' wheels that I plan on using and I won't be using the Humvee wheels for a while until I can afford to recenter them ($50 per wheel).




So transmission plans changed with the truck, decided to go with the 4 speed SM465 instead of the TH400, main reason being cost of rebuild and other required parts, and I really don't mind shifting, so the 4 speed it is. Plus the truck already had a SM465 in it when I got it, I already have a good clutch on the engine for it and have all the linkage stuff, and a full rebuild will cost me half of what the TH400 rebuild with a TC and shift kit would. Throw in the $230 Winters/Art-Carr shifter I wanted for the TH400, well that money will go a long way towards driveshaft parts that I need.

Went from this setup....


To this....




And just to hold your interest in case it takes me a while to post, here is a teaser shot of something I've been waiting quite a while to build... Lets see who can spot it first....

[Captainfab]

Looks like your HO72/Dana 60 hybrid differential........

Originally Posted by 63GMCKid

And just to hold your interest in case it takes me a while to post, here is a teaser shot of something I've been waiting quite a while to build... Lets see who can spot it first....

Your welds are looking good

[63GMCKid]

Alright folks, now time for the coolest part of the build, what I call the "Every Man's Eaton" build, because anyone with access to a lathe, good welding skills, and a lot of time with a tape measure, pen and paper, can build this same axle. But like an idiot, I forgot to get pictures of the making of the most important part, the housing extensions. Anyway, here's a mini-build dedicated to my Eaton HO72/Dana 60 hybrid front axle.


The housing for this project started out as a '58 Eaton HO72 with slide on drums, meaning this axle is about 1/2'' narrower per side than later Eatons (I learned this the hard way after getting this housing all cleaned up and then mocking up my disc brakes....), the difference can be seen in the spindles if you compare one of these older housings to a later Eaton, unfortunately I don't have pictures of that difference but take my word for it, the width difference can also be seen when comparing later Eaton shafts to older ones.

It went from this ('58 housing, complete)....


To this, spindles cut off immediately behind the weld holding the backing plate flanges to the housing, everything removed from the housing (leaf perches, shock brackets, etc., the perches you see in the pic are for mock up)...



Now keep in mind I am building this without having a Dana 60 to measure stuff from, so I had to track down the information I needed on the internet. I bought my inner C's from ebay and had those, but I have nothing from the knuckles out, so I had to know some basic measurements of a Chevy Dana 60 housing to figure out how wide to make my Eaton housing and tube extensions. For some reason this basic info is non existent on the internet so I had to post on Pirate to get some of the information, and even then it wasn't quite everything I wanted to know but I had to work with it.

Anyway, I knew a Chevy Dana 60 front axle has a WMS-WMS width of 69''. I knew this would be too wide for my GMC and it would look stupid with a 65'' wide rear axle, so I wanted to narrow it to 67'' WMS-WMS give or take 1/2''. After posting a request for some Chevy Dana 60 housing measurements, someone was able to get some rough basic measurements for me, good enough to get this axle into the ball park for the width that I wanted. For a Chevy D60 stock housing, with kingpins installed on the inner C's, top of king pin center to top of king pin center is 53'', so this was a very good starting point dimension for me. Would have liked to know the width from end of axle tube to end of axle tube, but couldn't get that info so I went with the 53'' KPC to KPC dimension.

I mainly use PlasmaCAM for drawing since I've forgotten how to use AutoCAD. Something cool about PlasmaCAM is I can turn a picture into a line drawing, use a known dimension and scale part of the drawing to that and have a pretty accurate drawing. I found a detail of a Chevy Dana 60 inner C/knuckle/spindle/hub/rotor assembly, scaled the drawing up in PlasmaCAM so the axle tube in the drawing was 3 1/8'' in PlasmaCAM, checked drawing dimensions against known dimensions posted online and everything checked out. I wont make everyone bored with all of the details of drawing it, but I drew it and all measurements checked out in the drawing, so hopefully it will turn out right!

Here is a quick screenshot of what the HO72/60 hybrid looks like in 2D...



After drawing it up I knew how much more I would need to cut off the short side of the housing and how much I would need to extend the long side. Well I was able to figure out how I could do it without it being obvious that it was extended. The center chunk is a little closer toward the center of the truck, but the pinion center line to leaf spring distance is about the same as a passenger drop Chevy 10 bolt front axle, so no big deal there.

Anyway, I set it up so I only had to extend the housing 1.75'' on each side, which is all that each inner C needs to press on to. So to make my life easier, I decided that the extensions would have the same OD as a D60 axle tube, so I could press it onto the C and not deal with trying to have the housing turned down or the C's bored. I ordered 12'' of 3.125''x.5'' DOM tube from Speedymetals (To the tune of $101 shipped! ) and cut it into two 6'' long pieces and spent a couple hours on the lathe turning the chunks of tube into housing extensions/inner C adapters. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of these before I pressed the C's onto them and put everything on the Eaton housing for the final time. So to make up for that, I drew up a quick dimensioned side profile view of these extensions/adapters.



When I pressed the inner C's onto the extensions, I froze the extensions prior to make pressing a bit easier. It was definitely a very tight press fit even with the extensions frozen, I would say very close to factory spec, took something like 34 tons on the 40 ton press where I work. After that I milled a flat on the extensions to clear the seam of the tubes on the Eaton housing and have a bit of wiggle room to adjust my caster before tacking it together.

When I was ready to put the C's with extensions into the Eaton housing, I once again froze them since I turned the extensions to exactly the same OD as the ID of the HO72's tubes, which meant for a very tight fit at room temp, and a snug slip fit when frozen. Set my pinion angle to 6* up at the transfer case, and caster angle to top of inner C's back at 6*, for a total combined angle of 12*. All angles and measurements checked out right on the money, so everything was tacked together after the frozen C's/extensions warmed up to room temp.

Prior to all of this I cut 4 holes at the end of the HO72 housing tubes for plug welds, so after everything was tacked, I decided I would go ahead and do the plug welds and grind them smooth with the housing. Next step will be to put the final weld around the C's to secure them to the extensions and main housing. Going to do this at work with a Miller 350P MIG machine set up for pulsed spray transfer, I want a good hot weld that will penetrate well into all 3 parts at each end.

So here is how it sits now, caster and pinion angle set, awaiting final weld around the C's, and soon will get a nice pair of 6'' long spring perches from WFO concepts.




An attempt at a cool looking picture with the macro feature turned on, note the beefy 1/2'' wall tube at the C, same as any Dana 60, so aftermarket outer axle seals will work for this setup. Also note the inner C gussets, because they make it look like I am going to wheel it in such hardcore terrain that I might need such additional strength,
and to make it hardcore enough for the Pirate4x4 web wheelers, too...

[63GMCKid]

Note the bevel on the housing tube end for good weld penetration, as well as a good exposed section of extension for the weld to penetrate as well, and the usual back face of the inner C, slightly beveled from where I ground the weld out to remove the small chunk of tube that both C's had in them when I got them.


Again, from a little further back. You can also see where I ground the plug welds smooth with the housing.


Again, but on the passenger side.


And on the bench measuring for inner shafts, which I am also making.



And for those who are into the offroad world and follow some buggy builds on Pirate, a lot of the custom axles with aftermarket fabricated housings usually have a tag with the company name or logo welded onto the housing somewhere. Well I thought it would be cool to do the same thing but with the Eaton logo, so I made a couple of those tags to weld to the housing (one of the front axle and one for the rear).



And since I am making my own inner shafts, here is whats left after I attacked a pair of stub axles and '58 HO72 axle shafts with a lathe (for boring a 3/4'' hole in the stub yokes) and a cutoff wheel.


And since we are on the subject of making custom length inner shafts of strange and unique diffs, here are a couple links to some tech that shows how to do such a thing....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...5&postcount=50
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...0&postcount=76
(Bottom of the page on this last one) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...&postcount=132

[C@rnut001]

Wow...excellent fabrication! Keep it up!

[McMurphy]

Yep, you are up there with the real heavy hitters like BuiltbyBrooks, Porterbuilt, Dino, and a few others I am not remembering their names just yet.

Too much math for this simple guy, but I am not too addled to know some serious work when I see it!!
I may not follow half of what you say, but I am in for the show none the less!!

[jbclassix]

Did you slide the axle extensions into the housing? I have been thinking about a front HO72, but not sure how to go about it. I will be following closely.

[63GMCKid]

Originally Posted by C@rnut001

Wow...excellent fabrication! Keep it up!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Yep, you are up there with the real heavy hitters like BuiltbyBrooks, Porterbuilt, Dino, and a few others I am not remembering their names just yet.

Too much math for this simple guy, but I am not too addled to know some serious work when I see it!!
I may not follow half of what you say, but I am in for the show none the less!!

Wow, thanks! To be considered as being in the close to the same league as those guys is a pretty big honor, while I am not a fan of lowered street trucks, I can appreciate the work that those guys put into their trucks and they are nothing short of amazing. Hopefully I can keep that standard up throughout the rest of the build.





And with a little bit more tech, I got all the measurements for my shafts, I need to machine the back of those yokes down slightly (like .08~.1'') so they don't rub the inner C when it's all together. Will turn the shafts down to 3/4'' to fit in the yokes at 18.0625'' and 28.625'', which is 1/8'' too long on purpose on both sides, and I might add another 1/16'' to that depending on how much I take off the back of the yokes. Length of the 3/4'' diameter section will be determined after I machine the back of the yokes. Luckily the splines are cut extra long on the Eaton shafts, so I can get away with making them slightly too long and can cut them down if need be and still have full spline engagement. After getting it turned, I'll TIG it out with some ER-70S-2, since most of the home built shafts I've found on Pirate are done with MIG and standard ER-70S-6 wire, however I might stop by the local welding supply and see if I can get some ER80S TIG filler instead, every bit of extra strength helps.

After that I'll polish about the first 6'' of shaft behind the yoke to act as a good seal surface. Likely going to run some kind of seal like this right near the ends of the axle tubes - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SIT-EAS2-05/ - I don't like the traditional design of front axles with the seals way down inside of the housing that let the tubes fill with dirt/water/mud/etc, plus they are a PITA to change if they are buried way down near the diff. However, I'm contemplating doing a redundant system with inner and outer seals, if my budget allows, since the Seals-It brand units that will work for inner seals for my application cost $65 each, and the outers are $27 each.

[63GMCKid]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Did you slide the axle extensions into the housing? I have been thinking about a front HO72, but not sure how to go about it. I will be following closely.

Yes, the C's were first pressed onto the extensions, then the C/extension assemblies were frozen so they would easily slide into the housing. I'm still kicking myself for not getting pictures of that whole process because its kind of hard to explain all of it with just words now. Something to note though, the extensions are also plug welded (4 plug welds per side) in a staggered pattern around the tube, I've already ground them flush with the housing so its hard to tell, and technically they are a press fit, I just used the awesome thermal expansion/contraction properties of steel to my advantage to make putting everything together easy, so they are a thermal interference fit (press fit at room temp).

Also something else I would like to add in is the importance of using a setup bar. I don't own a setup bar simply because I may only ever use it once or twice, however I borrowed one from a friend and used some old bearings as half assed alignment pucks to do a quick check to make sure the housing was straight, and it is straight, but as this post shows, one may not always be so lucky... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...0&postcount=41
Really though any good straight piece of heavy wall DOM tube would probably work as a setup bar, I just think that you should use something you can trust as being very straight/true to check it, just to be sure before putting a bunch of time into building an axle that might be bent.

From an earlier post, this is what the extension looks like in 2D CAD, the larger diameter part being where the inner C is pressed on, the smaller diameter being what is actually inside of the Eaton housing tubes.

Originally Posted by 63GMCKid

[63GMCKid]

Alrighty folks, I finished welding the C's on the HO72/60 housing, made my inner axle shafts, and got some more done on my e-brake setup. I won't make everyone bored with too many words here, the pictures speak for themselves.


C's welded on and inner shafts finished, everything on the housing just to see how it looks.



And some shots of the welds on the C's and Shafts.... Something to note on how I welded these, I did a root pass with pulsed spray transfer MIG, which is extremely hot and penetrates very deep, followed by a filler pass over that with pulsed spray transfer to fill the weld area out to a proper size and for more fusion between the C and the housing itself, then all of that covered up with a TIG weld doing a weave pattern, to fill in any under cut from the pulsed spray welds and to make it look good (mostly just to make it look good though ). This was a bit challenging to coax a TIG weld this size from a 200amp Miller Dynasty machine, I had it cranked up to the full 200 amps with high speed amperage pulse turned on for some extra punch and floored almost the whole time, and this was while it was still warm from the pulsed spray welds!
(Passenger side C)


(Drivers side C)


(Passenger side C again)


Axle shafts were fully TIG welded. Shafts used a 3/4'' pilot that was pressed into the yokes, plug welded on the bridge area of the yoke, and welded around the base of the yoke/beveled step down to pilot size of the shaft with 3 passes (root, filler, cover).







An attempt at an artsy photo of the Eaton tag that I put on the housing...



How the Eaton tag looks head on, I think it turned out pretty cool. Hopefully when the truck is all done, someone will see that Eaton tag that knows a thing or two about these old trucks and question what kind of axle its got under it.




And the e-brake assembly, will be bolting it up to one of my NP205's over the weekend to make sure everything fits like it's supposed to.
Note the ribs added to the bracket for strength, since I had to remove the section of material that bridged between the two sides of the caliper, I figured a little extra strength wouldn't hurt.


And with it roughly together on the bench


Of course, I have to show off some more of the TIG welds while I'm at it. The entire bracket was TIG welded, and made of beefy 1/4'' steel.




Some more pics should follow tomorrow, I'll be putting the 3rd in the 72/60 housing and making sure the inner shaft lengths are good to go, followed by making some gussets/shock mounts for the inner c's. I also made some 1/2'' thick front shackles from 2 pieces each of 1/4'' plate, TIG welded of course. I'll probably also be finishing the transfer case mount this weekend and if I have time I'll tear into the SM465. Stay tuned!