Blood Sweat and Tears.. 67 Build Thread

[Possmguts]

Just kind of sitting everything in place to see what clears and what dont... It looks like Ill have to do something with that above frame rear sway bar after all... It fit when I had the metal floor but now with the wood kit in place its too high and keeps 2 planks from sitting down all the way...
A lot more work to be done on the sides yet and 2 holes on the new front dont line up with the holes in the side on the driver side, so that will have to be addressed as well...

But over all I'm impressed with the fit of the LMC wood bed kit and bed parts and sills.

[flashed]

That bed wood looks great .

[Advanced Design]

I agree that looks very good. Are you going to stain or coat the wood?

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

I agree that looks very good. Are you going to stain or coat the wood?

I'm not sure what Ill do with it yet. I'm sort of partial to natural wood so I may just clear coat it... But I still haven't even nailed down a color on the truck yet so it will depend on what route I go with that I guess...

[Possmguts]

Why does this not look right?
This is one of those times where I wish I would have taken pics of this coming apart...
This is where all the lines meat up to go up to the MC at the left front. This is the LMC Pre-Bent line kit. I knew I would have to do some modifying to the lines going up from this point to the MC but why do these lines come out on the OUTSIDE of the frame here? Are they not supposed to be coming out on the INSIDE of the frame?
Is that "T" positioned right as well?? The pics on the website really suck and are not much help...

[RRR18]

I might not all the way be sure but I think most of the kits come outside the frame at that point. Maybe for heat from exhaust? Maybe for ease of routing? There has to be some reason and I know there is one cuz I swear I've read it on here before. Might have been during a late night beer search.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by RRR18

I might not all the way be sure but I think most of the kits come outside the frame at that point. Maybe for heat from exhaust? Maybe for ease of routing? There has to be some reason and I know there is one cuz I swear I've read it on here before. Might have been during a late night beer search.

How much trouble would it be for you to get me a pic of this area?

[Metaldoc]

this is factory

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

this is factory

Thank you for that.. Now I know what I need to do.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

I just mix about 1/2 to 3/4 fist size amounts at the most. Ill use a soft plastic blade to work it into the rough area and then go to the Plexiglas sheet I have to get a really wide, smooth swipe to get it close to the body shape and pull off the excess amount... what I mix on is a drywall mud plate with a handle on it and just clean it after each use. The high build Im using is in the gallon and I use a primmer gun to spray, but really dont have to use much.. maybe 2 or 3 good coats at first and then a light coat between sanding with different grits until I get to 150 grit. Ill later go over the whole truck with finner gits to get to the surface ready for color. The glaze I use is extremely workable and eliminates a lot of the high build... It flows really nice and thin.
I also go over the area getting filler with a 30 grit disk to really rough the metal up to get that grabby surface for a really strong hold.

This pic is basically my body kit... minus the welder... and the smaller and different shaped blocks

By the way... The pro grade bondo is much more workable than the regular

I just bought a kit for the dura blocks and it is well worth the money if you are wanting a quality sand for your finish

[jlsanborn]

^^^ x2 on the Dura Blocks!

[88Stanger]

possmguts,
great build so far and that hood, damn good job, i am impressed. I may just need to take this hood idea, modify it a bit and do that to mine if that is cool with you.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

possmguts,
great build so far and that hood, damn good job, i am impressed. I may just need to take this hood idea, modify it a bit and do that to mine if that is cool with you.

lol Thanks... I dont have a patent on it .... yet lol

[Possmguts]

I know its been a while since my last update... Believe it or not, Im still working on brake lines... I have 3 pieces from the LMC pre-bent SS line kit that I had to cut and modify and now I cant find ANYONE local who can flare the ends on these 3 pieces... So frustrating... I just sent InLine Tube an email asking if I can just send them to them to do... They will probably make me buy new sections from them though, but at this point I don't care. It just needs to get done. Had I known before I started running the SS line that it would this big of a pain, I would never have done it..

And since time is something I just don't have anymore, I decided to give up on saving the bed sides and I just ordered new sides, tailgate and bed tubs that are 4 inches wider than stock. I hope to have this bed complete and ready to paint by mid next month... If I can get that done there will be very little I need to touch up on the doors to be ready for some color....

Its off to the interior once that's done... This had turned out to be a way bigger project that I had planned for. Imagine that...

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

I know its been a while since my last update... Believe it or not, Im still working on brake lines... I have 3 pieces from the LMC pre-bent SS line kit that I had to cut and modify and now I cant find ANYONE local who can flare the ends on these 3 pieces... So frustrating... I just sent InLine Tube an email asking if I can just send them to them to do... They will probably make me buy new sections from them though, but at this point I don't care. It just needs to get done. Had I known before I started running the SS line that it would this big of a pain, I would never have done it..

Would it just be easier to buy a flaring tool? You can get some mediocre quality ones for about $50 on ebay

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Would it just be easier to buy a flaring tool? You can get some mediocre quality ones for about $50 on ebay

You can not flare SS lines with a regular cheap tool made for soft lines... The tool needed for SS lines is about 350 to 400 bucks...

[flashed]

There is a company there in Ohio that makes Lines that would probably flare them for you .Cant remember the name but I have been there .

[swamp rat]

I bought a flaring tool at sears for about $65, bent my own lines for the rear axle.

[Possmguts]

Got the new bed sides while I was gone so the first thing I did when I got home was take the bed back off and apart and put it back together and back on the frame with the new sides... gonna finish mocking it all up tomorrow.

[flashed]

Looks good .

[lower50's]

Looks really nice and clean.

[Possmguts]

Working on that bed floor again today and was wondering... What if I didnt run the bed mount bolts thru the wood... what If I just mounted the bed using the bolts Under the wood... Hmmm...

[Metaldoc]

My bed fastens down under the boards but it's different than stock and had no problems with it. The bed looks great but the tailgate looks a bit low, the body lines are a little off.

[swamp rat]

I think when you put the tailgate on it will look right...

[RRR18]

Mine bolts underneath wood.