1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes - Page 57 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

6lcummins · 03-05-2013, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Why do you want to box the frame? the longhorn frame has a high modulus (resistant to bending) to begin with. Its a one ton frame.

700HP/1400LBS FT of torque is a good start to why its getting boxed.

Vintage Windmills · 03-05-2013, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

700HP/1400LBS FT of torque is a good start to why its getting boxed.

Wow, thats crazy power. makes sense given that

watahyahknow · 03-05-2013, 05:26 PM

im kindah wondering if boxing the frame will cause it to crack near the crossbraces where you need to work the plating and welding around ,
wat might work is to get a second frame take both the original and the extra apart so you only have the framerails make one of those thinner cut them towart the bended part so they shut straight ontoo the other original rail and swap left to right and vice versa , cut and shut the crossmembers so they fit ontoo the inside out and thinned framerail and you still can use the original bodymounts on the outside part on the original framerails and can still fit the front suspention parts after you remount those , put the original framerails on the outside and weld them together to get a boxsection out of one piece , only the part near the front suspension needs sumting made as it bends in more than one direction

its hard to explane but basicly you make the boxplates out of one piece using the extra frame and change the crossbraces to fit and be mounted to the inside plates so they dont go through the plates to the other frame and keep the original frame as is exept for the crossbraces everything mounted on the outside of those rails need to stay at the original location and at the original width

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-05-2013, 06:05 PM

I highly doubt the frame will crack. It's already a pretty heavy duty frame. Plus I'll be redoing some cross members and the GN hitch will be sitting on 2"x4" 1/4" tube. I'm sure it'll be rigid as all get out.

This isn't a trail truck, so I won't be trying to twist it up either.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-05-2013, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryanroo

you should find out, i might be convinced to make a set of offset zero rates...

i am pretty sure i can make them out of 1/2" so it doesnt alter the height much

Ryan

Of course, after I ordered mine already. Thanks buddy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Why do you want to box the frame? the longhorn frame has a high modulus (resistant to bending) to begin with. Its a one ton frame.

Because if I don't, I'll never hear the end of it from a couple of net thugs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrBeast

The older dodges also had a ton of problems with cracked frames.

The biggest problem were their front frame horns. It was a really chitty design. They also had steering box frame area cracking issues too. It also couldn't have helped that those frames were started in the early 70's and just modified clear up until the early 90's.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-05-2013, 06:11 PM

It's amazing that I've lost the little bracket that holds up the steering column against the brake pedal bracket twice during this build. Man, it'll be nice when this thing has all it's parts bolted on it.

ryanroo · 03-05-2013, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Why do you want to box the frame? the longhorn frame has a high modulus (resistant to bending) to begin with. Its a one ton frame.

peer pressure...

jbclassix · 03-05-2013, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

700HP/1400LBS FT of torque is a good start to why its getting boxed.

thats... wow. i deleted my complement cuz it wasn't big enough.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-05-2013, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbclassix

thats... wow. i deleted my complement cuz it wasn't big enough.

It definitely has the fuel and air for 700hp, it just needs all the little stuff to make it fire, and put it to the ground.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-05-2013, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryanroo

peer pressure...

Tick, tock, tick, tock.

MrBeast · 03-06-2013, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Tick, tock, tick, tock.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTyN-vvFIkE

ryanroo · 03-06-2013, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Tick, tock, tick, tock.

was that my kick in the junk?

Mattman2010 · 03-06-2013, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Because if I don't, I'll never hear the end of it from a couple of net thugs.

You convinced me to box mine, so its only right if you box yours too right?

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-06-2013, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mattman2010

You convinced me to box mine, so its only right if you box yours too right?

You got me there.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-06-2013, 05:22 PM

Ok, here's what I have to finish before I can work on the Longhorn a lot. I'm porting and polishing a 24v head for a 2002 Dodge. We had this head milled and o-ringed. The o-ring provides more force to help keep the head gasket's fire ring in place and not blow causing a blown head gasket. I'm still in the porting stage. These heads are very hard and can be really hard to port.

This is what the stock ports look like. Intake side is on the left of the picture.

Non ported on the RH, ported on the LH.

Exhaust side. I will gasket match each port and feather it in to the exhaust ports. The smaller ones are stock size. I will flip the head over and do the lower portion of the runners later.

Stock Exhaust ports.

Stock, not ported yet.

These are ported.

cAlvis165 · 03-07-2013, 02:48 PM

You guys seen these?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36uZA_iaFbQ

Going to make them for the 12v first and then on to the 24v.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-07-2013, 04:25 PM

Yes I have. They are still trying to get the braking power side of it to work better. They sound cool, but I guess don't brake well yet.

watahyahknow · 03-07-2013, 04:38 PM

i think a retarder / magnetbrake would work better ,

i have seen motorbrake stuff but i think it works by smothering the intake air while cutting the injectors the vacuum makes the engine resist reving when running downhill in gear , prolly whont work with turbo's as they get hurt when you cut the air intoo them ... sucks the oil right trough the seals

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-07-2013, 05:05 PM

I bet a magnet brake isn't cheap either.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-07-2013, 05:15 PM

More porting pics. Man, this is a lot of work and hard on a guy's back.

It's hard to capture some of the angles and such with the lighting.

**Dieselwrencher** · 03-07-2013, 05:43 PM

Oh yeah, a couple of days ago I put on the LH door handle. That's progress. Right?

My ORD zero rates came today and I plan on putting them in this weekend.

watahyahknow · 03-07-2013, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I bet a magnet brake isn't cheap either.

definetely not , i was looking intoo using a set of those for a dynomometer-rerthingamajig and there way up there pricewize , they dont wear out though as here no parts touching it kindah works like a dynamo creating its own power to create the magnetic field
the cast iron disk usually isnt coated verry whell and there sitting behind the transmission in the open air so they look like a big ball of rust when you do find them at a truck wreckingyard

there was a show on discovery some time back that incolved a landspeed record attempt using some jetfighter turned intoo a car , they used a thick aluminium disk that turned with the wheels and another one that was stationairy next to it on the axle with permanent magnets in them
to brake they put the plates with the magnets closer to the rotating disk and the magnetic field caused the disk to resist rotating , it worked harder if the wheels where spining fast and redused in drag when the wheels started spinning slower , it allso didnt create heat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkbdm66UQis

1985-GMC · 03-07-2013, 10:05 PM

Nice job on the head porting, you can really tell the difference on those exhaust ports!

Now show us your weapon of choice for all that!

jbclassix · 03-07-2013, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Oh yeah, a couple of days ago I put on the LH door handle. That's progress. Right?

My ORD zero rates came today and I plan on putting them in this weekend.

Ok, I am guessing that zero rates relocate your axle off the center pin with no degree change correct? I am not getting the 2-hole, 3-hole thing. I have never used them before. Educate me.

ryanroo · 03-07-2013, 11:30 PM

They are called zero rate add-a-leaf. they can recenter the axle or not. they are called add a leaves because they become a part of the springpack when you bolt them on with the center pin but do nothing to change the springrate like a normal add-a-leaf. the 2 hole three hole is the choices for moving the axle forward or back
Ryan

03-05-2013, 05:26 PM	#1403
watahyahknow Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: the netherlands europe Posts: 4,335	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion im kindah wondering if boxing the frame will cause it to crack near the crossbraces where you need to work the plating and welding around , wat might work is to get a second frame take both the original and the extra apart so you only have the framerails make one of those thinner cut them towart the bended part so they shut straight ontoo the other original rail and swap left to right and vice versa , cut and shut the crossmembers so they fit ontoo the inside out and thinned framerail and you still can use the original bodymounts on the outside part on the original framerails and can still fit the front suspention parts after you remount those , put the original framerails on the outside and weld them together to get a boxsection out of one piece , only the part near the front suspension needs sumting made as it bends in more than one direction its hard to explane but basicly you make the boxplates out of one piece using the extra frame and change the crossbraces to fit and be mounted to the inside plates so they dont go through the plates to the other frame and keep the original frame as is exept for the crossbraces everything mounted on the outside of those rails need to stay at the original location and at the original width __________________ i got a job again and having fun at it too idea's for the trucks and the order of things to do are taking shape and get closer to being realized , a few more months and i be able to start building for real i complete 2 of the trucks intoo running fashion one custom and one basicly stock the thirth will be sacrificed for parts Last edited by watahyahknow; 03-05-2013 at 05:31 PM.

03-05-2013, 06:05 PM	#1404
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion I highly doubt the frame will crack. It's already a pretty heavy duty frame. Plus I'll be redoing some cross members and the GN hitch will be sitting on 2"x4" 1/4" tube. I'm sure it'll be rigid as all get out. This isn't a trail truck, so I won't be trying to twist it up either. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-05-2013, 06:11 PM	#1406
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion It's amazing that I've lost the little bracket that holds up the steering column against the brake pedal bracket twice during this build. Man, it'll be nice when this thing has all it's parts bolted on it. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-06-2013, 05:22 PM	#1415
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion Ok, here's what I have to finish before I can work on the Longhorn a lot. I'm porting and polishing a 24v head for a 2002 Dodge. We had this head milled and o-ringed. The o-ring provides more force to help keep the head gasket's fire ring in place and not blow causing a blown head gasket. I'm still in the porting stage. These heads are very hard and can be really hard to port. This is what the stock ports look like. Intake side is on the left of the picture. Non ported on the RH, ported on the LH. Exhaust side. I will gasket match each port and feather it in to the exhaust ports. The smaller ones are stock size. I will flip the head over and do the lower portion of the runners later. Stock Exhaust ports. Stock, not ported yet. These are ported. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-07-2013, 04:25 PM	#1417
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion Yes I have. They are still trying to get the braking power side of it to work better. They sound cool, but I guess don't brake well yet. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-07-2013, 04:38 PM	#1418
watahyahknow Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: the netherlands europe Posts: 4,335	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion i think a retarder / magnetbrake would work better , i have seen motorbrake stuff but i think it works by smothering the intake air while cutting the injectors the vacuum makes the engine resist reving when running downhill in gear , prolly whont work with turbo's as they get hurt when you cut the air intoo them ... sucks the oil right trough the seals __________________ i got a job again and having fun at it too idea's for the trucks and the order of things to do are taking shape and get closer to being realized , a few more months and i be able to start building for real i complete 2 of the trucks intoo running fashion one custom and one basicly stock the thirth will be sacrificed for parts

03-07-2013, 05:05 PM	#1419
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion I bet a magnet brake isn't cheap either. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-07-2013, 05:15 PM	#1420
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion More porting pics. Man, this is a lot of work and hard on a guy's back. It's hard to capture some of the angles and such with the lighting. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-07-2013, 05:43 PM	#1421
Dieselwrencher 6>8 Plugless........ Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Prairie City, Ia Posts: 17,135	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion Oh yeah, a couple of days ago I put on the LH door handle. That's progress. Right? My ORD zero rates came today and I plan on putting them in this weekend. __________________ Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project *Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.*

03-07-2013, 10:05 PM	#1423
1985-GMC Chevy Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Canyon Lake Texas Posts: 2,024	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion Nice job on the head porting, you can really tell the difference on those exhaust ports! Now show us your weapon of choice for all that! __________________ Tony 1985 GMC K2500 restoration Project: Rust, White & Blue 1989 Chevy R3500 CC Cummins & 4X4 swap some day... 1989 Burb (D60, 14BFF, 12V, NV4500, NP205, 37" tires in progress)

03-07-2013, 11:30 PM	#1425
ryanroo Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: sw colorado Posts: 2,720	Re: Finally starting my Longhorn 4x4 conversion They are called zero rate add-a-leaf. they can recenter the axle or not. they are called add a leaves because they become a part of the springpack when you bolt them on with the center pin but do nothing to change the springrate like a normal add-a-leaf. the 2 hole three hole is the choices for moving the axle forward or back Ryan __________________ 72 K20 12v build 72 K20 "parts truck" A place for your diesel swap questions



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