4x4 Cab vs 2x4 Cab

[mountainman907]

Im in the process of looking for rust free cab for my 1970 K10 SWB. Are they different? Will any 68-72 chevy or gmc cab work?

[67swb72klb]

It just needs a high tunnel

[mountainman907]

Thats not the piece that unbolts where the hump is, is it? or are you talking about the whole floor board?

[swamp rat]

He's talking about the the hump that unbolts.

There are differences in the cabs per year but not 2 VS 4wd.

Most are small differences that a lot of people might overlook, the 67 has a different ign bezel and i think the 67-68 have a different ash tray than the 69-72. One year (maybe 69?) has a small round raised area in the passanger door jamb for the jack handle retainor spring, the spring and jack mount are different on some years too. I think the rivits holding the vin tags are different as well.

There is a thread here that covers this, try using the advanced search feature and type in cab differences and see what comes up.

[Clavo106]

Small differences e=brake is pull then a step between yrs / 70-71 has a air vent in the door jam. i believe

[PeterHall]

Rear view mirror changed mounts from a raised hump on the ceiling to the glass

[67 cst swb]

Originally Posted by Clavo106

Small differences e=brake is pull then a step between yrs / 70-71 has a air vent in the door jam. i believe

Pull e-brake was 67-68
foot brake 69-72

[67 cst swb]

Originally Posted by PeterHall

Rear view mirror changed mounts from a raised hump on the ceiling to the glass

Rearview mirrors were mounted above the glass on the cab metal from 67-71 with some different mirror arms from year to year.
In 1972 they were mounted to the windshield, just like the later models 73-later.

[kehstr]

you can take a low hump and convert it to a high hump, it's very common to do

[Beeson1972]

Originally Posted by 67 cst swb

Rearview mirrors were mounted above the glass on the cab metal from 67-71 with some different mirror arms from year to year.
In 1972 they were mounted to the windshield, just like the later models 73-later.

I have an orginial 1972 that was my dads and the rear view is screws to headliner
Posted via Mobile Device

[BLAZERMAN]

You only need the high hump in a 4x4 if you go with a 4 speed, it's not needed for an automatic.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by BLAZERMAN

You only need the high hump in a 4x4 if you go with a 4 speed, it's not needed for an automatic.

Is that with the engine in the rear mount location? Just curious..

[CUSTOM/10]

All the 4x4's came from the factory with the removable high hump, auto or standard. It was needed to clear the trany/transfer case. But with a body lift or moving the engine forward you could probably get it to clear. With that said any 67-72 cab can be made to work by installing a high hump, it's not a hard job, get a high hump, trace it out on the floor, cut out the floor leaving enough area to weld in the nuts. The area to be cut out is even embossed into the floor. The bigger issue is doing the cab swap legally because of the vin tag !

Gary

[mountainman907]

Ok cool i figured they werent too different, I have a few lined up to check out, as far s the vin goes. can this be fixed with a drill bit and a couple rivets? They would never know

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Beeson1972

I have an orginial 1972 that was my dads and the rear view is screws to headliner
Posted via Mobile Device

I have seen a few that way. The design was changed for 72, but some were probably built that way as leftovers from 71.

[CUSTOM/10]

Originally Posted by mountainman907

Ok cool i figured they werent too different, I have a few lined up to check out, as far s the vin goes. can this be fixed with a drill bit and a couple rivets? They would never know

Not legally !!! It would be best to check with the DMV or state police and see what you need to do to make it legal ! There are numbers on the frame that match the original frame.

[BLAZERMAN]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Is that with the engine in the rear mount location? Just curious..

That's with the engine in the stock rear position. All 4x4s came from the factory with a high hump whether standard or automatic but it's not needed at all with the automatic, plenty of transmission and transfer case clearance and no body lift required as well..

[hugger6933]

I rebuild wrecks for a living and I have checked several times about the vin and the thing i was told by both DFA and law enforcement was to not replace the "whole " cab but just the portions needed. Other wise saying if you cut out the area around the vin tag and place it onto the replacement cab it would be the best way to go. Say 6 or so inches around should do it.
Now don't take anything I have said other than food for thought but it does indeed leave the vin tag area undisturbed witch is why they didn't want people taking them off in the first place.
Now you can buy the rivets that look like vin tag rivets and there has to be some leeway there for restorers and the like that are on the up and up. The main reason is to slow down illegal activities. Like back in my area in the 90's there was a group buying the hardest hit stuff from the sales [insurance pools] and then a day or two later they would be on the road for sale again. It turns out those clowns were stealing trucks and swapping the vin tags and the key switches and the left door locks on them onto the stolen truck. Then they were selling the leftover motor stuff and what ever sheetmetal parts that were good to other builders. Fortunately I didn't do anything but stay far away from them. They got busted selling stolen stuff it was like 150 or so they did. Lots of people lost their "new to them" trucks. It made it harder for me to sell with all that going on but my customers trusted me and the FBI did check out several that I had built and realized I was clean. Now I know that is an extreme case and your just wanting to get the rust out[and in this case off of] your truck Good luck. Jim