Correct order of bleeding brakes for 1968 Chevy C10

[HeavyHauler]

What is the correct order for brake bleeding a 1968 Chevy C10? I am bleeding them in this order but have not had success in getting a firm pedal. I did bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it.

1)Driver rear
2)Passenger rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

[Happy_dan]

I am not sure where the lines run on a C-10. You bleed the furthest from the master first. On my C-20 that was the driver side rear then the passenger side rear. The hardline from the master goes down the passenger frame rail, then to a rubber hose then a T to each wheel so the drivers side rear is furthest.

I have read a lot of threads on bleeding. Many suggest to gravity bleed.

I bench bled my master until I was SURE there was no more air.

Then I use a pressure bleeder to pressurize the system and did the drivers rear first then the others. It took many times and filling the master many times but it's solid now.

Hope that helps some.
Maybe someone can chime in on where the brake line routes on the C-10.

Every other vehicle I have owned, the passenger rear was first then the driver rear then passenger front and finally drivers front.

[72LB]

Originally Posted by HeavyHauler

What is the correct order for brake bleeding a 1968 Chevy C10? I am bleeding them in this order but have not had success in getting a firm pedal. I did bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it.

1)Driver rear
2)Passenger rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

I was always told start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. Sure you got all the air out of the MC? What about the prop valve, was it replaced?

1)Passenger rear
2)Driver rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

[Happy_dan]

Originally Posted by 72LB

I was always told start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. Sure you got all the air out of the MC? What about the prop valve, was it replaced?

1)Passenger rear
2)Driver rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

This is true if the brake line runs from the master down the driver side of the truck. I am not sure if it's different between a C-10 and a C-20. On my C-20 the driver side rear is furthest run from the master because the brake line runs down the passenger side. Hope that makes sense.

[LockDoc]

-
It all begins with adjustment of the brake shoes.

On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel or drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. If there is too much travel in the shoes the pedal will go down too far before the shoes contact the drums. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear before I adjust them.

I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.

LockDoc

[68Gold/white]

The pass side is first front, then obviously driver side. I THEN do each again

You have to look under the bed to see where the flex hose hooks up to the 2 steel lines, going to each wheel. Do the side that has the most steel tubing on it, then opposite side, and AGAIN, do both again.

Pay careful attention to Leon's words! Too much gap between the shoes and drums, allows the pedal to go to the floor, and that means your going nowhere on the bleeding ordeal.

After adjusting and following Leon's instructions to center the shoes. Go drive it and check the adjustment again!!!

I hate drum brakes...

There's folks here, that say drum brakes are just as good as disc brakes, I'm not one of them!!!

[Steeveedee]

When I worked as a mechanic I had a bleeder ball and none of this "which end first" mattered. Now, after many decades of "Up, up, down, down" with someone pumping the pedal while I open the bleeders, I bench bleed the master cylinder and then let gravity push the fluid into the calipers and wheel cylinders. It takes more time, but eventually all the air is gone. Adjusting the shoes to meet the drums is, of course, important. I use the parking brake a few times to apply the rear drum bakes while adjusting, to get them into position. Adjust, apply parking brake, rinse and repeat.

[57taskforce]

I just open the rear bleeders while keeping the fronts closed. Keep filling the master cylinder. you may have to very slowly and gently (so as to not trip the proportioning valve) press the pedal a little ways to initially get fluid to the rear. Once you start getting fluid let gravity do it’s thing. Once the air is gone, close the rears and move to the front. Keep the master full at all times. I’ve done a few completely empty systems like this and never had a single soft pedal. Leon is spot on with the drum adjustment, you’ll never get a good pedal with the drums improperly adjusted.

[ltdmstr]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
It all begins with adjustment of the brake shoes.

On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel or drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. If there is too much travel in the shoes the pedal will go down too far before the shoes contact the drums. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear before I adjust them.

I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.

LockDoc

I'm reassembling the back half of my truck right now ('68 SWB) with new brake parts, and neither the drums nor the backing plates have access holes for the brake adjusters. So I don't see any way to adjust them with the drums on. I set the shoes out as far as I can while still being able to install the drums. Am I missing something? Seems like this is the best I can do under the circumstances.

[7tee]

I had the same problem with mine. So I drilled mine out at the adjuster location and after the adjustment I installed the rubber plugs...

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ltdmstr

I'm reassembling the back half of my truck right now ('68 SWB) with new brake parts, and neither the drums nor the backing plates have access holes for the brake adjusters. So I don't see any way to adjust them with the drums on. I set the shoes out as far as I can while still being able to install the drums. Am I missing something? Seems like this is the best I can do under the circumstances.

The adjuster slot location is marked on most of the backing plates but is not punched out. It looks like you might be able to punch them out but you can't. I drill all of mine as "7tee" mentioned.

LockDoc

[ltdmstr]

Ok, thanks for the suggestion on drilling holes in the backing plates. That should be pretty simple to do.

[LS short box]

I used both a Mity Vac and a Motive pressure bleeder. The Mity Vac pulls fluid and the Motive pushes fluid. Both work well. Passenger side first and then work your way around to driver then and the front.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I used both a Mity Vac and a Motive pressure bleeder. The Mity Vac pulls fluid and the Motive pushes fluid. Both work well. Passenger side first and then work your way around to driver then and the front.

I just got finished with the brand new to me Motive Pressure bleeder. Was a peice of cake to use, very happy with it.