questions about z bar and disc spindles

[Philip]

Hi I am helping a friend restore a 70 K5 with a 350/4 speed. I am getting ready to drop in a crate engine but when I removed the old motor the z bar (clutch cross shaft) didn't seem to fit properly. I could not remove it without lifting the motor several inches and it was on a downward angle from the frame to the block.
Is the one in this photo correct?



Next question is about front disc brakes. It currently has drum brakes and I just purchased a Dana 44 complete with disc set up. The calipers are gone but the everything else is there. Do I need to change the spindles Or will the caliper brackets bolt on to the drum spindle?

Thanks for your help.

[Jtrux]

I have a 71, I doubt there is supposed to be different but that does not look like my z bar, that one looks to have been modified. I bet the old motor had headers right? Now getting on to the installation part, it's tricky. You have to be pretty creative to get it to slip into place, it might take a minute the first couple times but once you figure out how it goes you'll never have another problem with it. Like I said, yours has been modified which makes it trickier, i've installed them in both stock and modified form so it's possible, you usually have to rotate it back and forth to get it to slide on to that weird stud on the block and line up with the slot on the frame. If i'm not mistaken you need to swap spindles but since you have them it's no biggie, just put in some new seals when you have them off (don't have to but since you have them off you might as well). When you take off the bolts holding on the spindle, give it taps on all sides with a rubber hammer til it finally comes off, they can be tight.

[Philip]

Thanks for the reply. What looks different? Yes it has headers and the headers will go back on. The clutch worked fine, I was thinking that the tube should have an offset in it which would have made it a lot easier to install.

[69TowRig]

No clue on the Z-bar...

For the brakes it will require that you swap the complete knuckles out, and if you want to use the normal snap-rings to retain the outer shafts you will have to swap out the complete axle shafts as well. You can't just swap outer shafts if the D44 is '73 or newer, they used larger u-joints. I used the original shafts combined with fender washers and 7/16-20 bolts to keep the shafts in place.

If the ratios match between the axles it is far simpler to swap the entire axle. I went through the pains of swapping in '84 K5 knuckles and I don't think I will bother to ever do that again.

[MiniD]

On mine, the bar that is welded dead center on yours is on the other side of the grease fitting closer to the edge. It does not make it easier to install.

[Philip]

Thanks for the help guys. I hope to have the new engine in this weekend. I won't tackle the brake upgrade until we get a few miles on the motor and all the bugs (if any) are worked out. We are adding a large cap GM HEI, I hope there is room for it, the clearance from measuring with the old distributer looked like it is going to be tight back there.

[Philip]

Well I didn't get the motor in this weekend. It appears the new flywheel I ordered is wrong. It is the one for the one piece rear seal engine. My fault not the sellers, but now it will set me back until the big brown truck shows up. It is giving me time to rebuild the power steering gear and reseal the pump.