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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,294
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Standard vs. Deluxe Knobs
I was wondering if it would be possible to transfer the stainless center trim from a deluxe knob to a standard knob, so I cut apart a junk deluxe knob I had. It appears that the deluxe knobs were injection molded with the stainless piece in the mold. The plastic is smooth underneath the trim, whereas the face of the standard knob is textured. The trim cannot be transferred.
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,705
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Re: Standard vs. Deluxe Knobs
If the inner ring on the standard knobs is the same size as the stainless center. I would trim the tangs off of center, clean the standard knob with rubbing alcohol, rough up the backside of stainless with some sandpaper, put a small glob of JB Weld on the backside of stainless cap and put in place.
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Richard 1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746 |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,294
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Re: Standard vs. Deluxe Knobs
The inner ring on standard knobs is larger than the stainless center.
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 7,060
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Re: Standard vs. Deluxe Knobs
Interesting that some one is covering this issue.
Not one of the many aftermarket vendors of ''67/72 parts'' carries the Standard knobs. Only the DeLuxe, with the metal center. My '68 C/10 Stepside has the all black Standard knobs for Choke, Wipers, and Headlights. I have a '67 K/10 Suburban that also has Standard knobs, all black plastic, but the shape is slightly different. Smaller diameter, and a ridged edge around the circumference. I run two trucks primarily, a '68 C/10 and a '71 GMC K/1500 Jimmy. The C/10 was a fleet truck. Totally spartan -- no frills. The Jimmy was built with a Custom trim level, with chrome accents, AC [originally], chrome surround on the windshield, and of course, little chrome [or Stainless] dots on the Dash Knobs. When the original Headlight knob would spin around the shaft, and not turn the dimmer rheostat up or down I was able to buy a new knob, and it works just fine. When I accidently pulled too hard on the C/10's Wiper knob [thinking it was the Headlight switch -- not taking my eyes off the road] the knob came off. Since I couldn't buy a new Black Standard Knob, and didn't want to replace all three, I had to fix the old knob. I packed baking soda down into the web spaces around the D-Hole the Wiper Switch is machined for, and sealed it with Superglue. The combination of sodium bicarbonate and cyano-acrylates reacts very fast and dries hard. The fix worked. I may try more cyano-acrylate glue on my OEM DeLuxe Headlight Knob, to stop its spinning. If I'd thought about it earlier, I could have saved about $7. I can still fix it and have a spare, I guess. Having a spare Headlight knob [and shaft] is handy if you want to energize the electric harness [for test purposes] when the Instrument Panel is off. Without it, and the Battery connected, the Headlights are at comstant ON. Only disconnecting them under the hood, or pulling the Batt cable will shut them off. Unless you use the Knob. You will have to remove it before putting the dash panel and ferrules back on, anyway. But it's good to have control.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-10-2022 at 07:31 AM. |
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