Can somebody please tell me where all the extra wires go on the power window switches

[CDN Sharky]

Ok so am restoring a 78 gmc shorty and I installed a painless wire kit that gives me 1 power wire to each doo can somebody please tell me how I can wire the 2 switches. I get the up and down wires kinda and the pink is power but what are the black onse maybe if someone can color code them what goes where for me please.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1645309713

[CDN Sharky]

Nobody know the answer to this? Did i post in the wrong place?

[RustyPile]

Probably because nobody has memorized the circuit.. Go to the top of this ELECTRICAL forum and download the '78 wiring diagram. Check and compare the wiring diagram that comes with the painless harness. Follow the diagram pathways for the various color coded wires. The power window circuitry is very complex and not for the faint headed or inexperienced. Work slowly and carefully. Get some hands-on help if you get stumped. Do not get antsy if a motor doesn't work. Although bad or missing grounds are often accused in some cases, DO NOT add grounds to the switches or motors. They are "special" and do not require external grounds. The switch reverses the polarity of the wires feeding the motor to reverse its direction of rotation.

[CDN Sharky]

I cant find 1 diagram that tells me if the black wires on both switches are ground. Every other switch dosen't have black wires at all. Painless dosen't get into wiring original gm switches but that's what fits the holes in the door panels. I can make a on/off/on toggle switch work no problem but that is ugly. When i start messing with the oem switch on the bench it started smoking.

[RustyPile]

None of the GM window switches have a black wire nor a ground. The ground "path" is a separate circuit. The switches simply reverse the polarity as I previously stated. Five wires for the master switch and 3 wires for the passenger side. It's possible you have the wrong switches or Painless uses a design that's different from GM's. You should contact Painless and obtain a schematic for their harness. Their harnesses require some knowledge and "engineering" when installing. I've seen very few of them that were 100% plug and play.

You let the smoke out of a component?? That's not a good sign, the component is now probably bad.. What about any damaged wires?? When testing such as you conducted, use fuses, and/or circuit breakers for component and wiring protection and use a light bulb as a load.. You can't just randomly connect wires "to see if that works"..

Here is a link to a forum website that is packed full of electrical stuff - diagrams, troubleshooting, circuit tabulations, etc.. Scroll down past the circuit tabulation charts. You'll find several wiring diagrams.. In those diagrams is the diagram for power window circuits.. Wire colors, connector identification, etc..

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...10_30_Only.pdf

[87chevy.com]

Here's a 2 window switch diagram. Replacement switch wire color is not the same as factory, but you can easily check it with a OHM meter and verify before you burn another switch up. You can also look into wiring relays so the switch doesn't carry all the current, relays will make the window roll up and down just a little faster.

clint