Need brake advice

[dawsonthompson]

Ok so I'm redoing the brakes in my 66 which has the current stock single reservoir master cylinder. I know i need to upgrade to something beefier since i have the bbc in it now. However cant decide what will be more efficient either upgrading to a dual reservoir with or without a break booster, keeping my single and just adding break booster, or swapping to front disc and leave the rear drums or change them to disc too. I do know the price differences between disc and power and i am willing to save for if needed, just don't want to spend the money if upgrading to a better manual setup will do just fine.

Thanks Dawson

[Kenfuzed]

I would upgrade to front disc with the dual reservoir and booster at minimum and leave the rear drums. This is what I have on mine and it brakes great.

[vince1]

X2 on the dual reservoir booster and discs on the front.

I have dual cylinder no boost drums all around but just a 250 with 4 sp.

[dawsonthompson]

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

I would upgrade to front disc with the dual reservoir and booster at minimum and leave the rear drums. This is what I have on mine and it brakes great.

Ok so im a little lost on the whole disc brake concept having to do with the master cylinder does it still use the same master cylinder the manual brakes would use or a different style

[Kenfuzed]

I've seen someone set it up to use only the single original master cylinder but I wouldn't recommend it, nor would you get me behind the wheel of such a set up. Isolating the front and back is important since discs and drums use different amounts of fluid moving through the lines when activated. A single cylinder would not apply enough pressure to the front disc and might also give a weak or spongy pedal.

There are plenty of vendors out there that make kits to do this right that will include the correct master cylinder, booster, and proportioning valve.

Brakes are the one thing I never cut corners on. Practically any other part on a truck or car can fail and just be an inconvenience, whereas a brake failure can result in deadly consequences.

[AcampoDave]

I run a disc/drum set up with a '72 master cylinder and no booster. I don't have to "stand" on the pedal to stop either. Granted, I don't push it with my toes but it's fine for me. Also, my proportioning valve came from a square body and I also used most of the other square body metal line as well. I simply installed the components in a similar location to the sqarebody doner truck. Front disc on a dual resivoir for a big ol' motor is what you need! (At the minimum) Edit: drum/drum and disc/drum have specific applications with regard to the master cylinder

[PGSigns]

There are some really good threads in the FAQ section on brake upgrades. I am 100% behind going to the duel pot master before driving one. I wrecked one when a metal line sprung a leak. Pedal went from good to zero in a flask. Ran into the back of a van and into the ditch. On my 66 I used Captnfabs bracket, his list of stuff from the parts store to do the power drums when I first got it. Very easy to do and really not expensive. Saved up and ordered the spindles and rotors and swapped to disc later on. So you can do this in stages. With the extra weight on the nose from the BBC I would go with front disc and a adjustable proportioning valve to get the balance right.
Jimmy

[1966FLEETSIDE]

Is there alot of swapping parts.when you go from drum brakes to disc setups?

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by 1966FLEETSIDE

Is there alot of swapping parts.when you go from drum brakes to disc setups?

To a certain extent yes. You will be swapping out the spindles, bearings, ball joints, and preferably the master cylinder. Rather than going around trying to collect all of the individual parts there are vendors that make complete kits in your choice of 5 lug or 6 lug like the one pictured below.


In the past many used front clips pulled from mid-70s trucks to perform the swap, but donor trucks are becoming increasingly difficult to find... at least for a decent price. My truck has the front clip from a 74 C10 and a master cylinder w/booster new from one of the vendors here. The kits offered by all of these vendors are comparable and relatively priced the same, and I like that you get everything including the option to go with a lowered spindle if that is your direction. Most offer the proportioning valve as an option and I highly recommend it in a truck since the light rear end can lock up during hard braking.

One of my first jobs (many years ago!) I was an ASE certified brake technician and saw my share of brake system failures when combined with more powerful engines and increased speeds. These old trucks and their drum brakes were designed for work (farm, city, etc) but when you start making upgrades and begin pushing highway speed I believe the drum only setup is inadequate and dangerous. I am of the mindset that upgrading brakes is one of the first improvements I make to an old truck or car when I get one. I just don't mess around when it comes to brakes, they are that important to me. JMHO.