Swapping a 69 Chevy body onto a 97 Cummings chassis

[1972RedNeck]

I am I fan of buying a bigger turbo before injectors. Your stock injectors can push a fair bit more fuel that what stock runs - more more fuel than a stock turbo can keep cool.

[winslowgoodwin]

looking good on the build

[steveperry]

So the cab placement is perfect as far as the wheel being centered is concerned, but it leaves me little to no room up front for the radiator and intercooler, both of which I shall be using. Racking my brain on where to go from here. Kinda a bad picture but you get the idea, the radiator is too far forward.

[chosn 1]

The GM rad support cant be used other than the outer 10"orso from the fenders in, you need that dodge rad support.

[chosn 1]

a couple pics of how I grafted the chev rad support to the dodge hoop

[chosn 1]

Maybe these help with showin how I did mine.

[chosn 1]

iirc... I slotted the holes on the mounts of the dodge rad support so that it would shift closed to the motor which is why I'm runnin 2 16" electric fans instead of the belt driven fan.
Don't worry !...it all fits...intercooler and all !!!

[steveperry]

Chosn1, I went through your build, I was just wondering how you tackled the axle being centered in the fender issue. As mine sits now it's centered but that rad core is no where near being able to fit into front clip, it's too far forward.

[chosn 1]

I think my wheels are back from center about an inch, doesn't look noticeable, here are a couple pics

[Dieselwrencher]

On your piston play, how much do you have? They do have some play and sometimes it looks like the piston is moving more than it really is. Your piston to cylinder wall clearance should be greater than .006 to allow for the expansion of the piston so it doesn't seize in the bore.

[steveperry]

Dieselwrencher, it's not a lot. I've come to the conclusion that it's just for exactly that, allowing for the higher temperatures and expansion. Was just kinda freaked out about it at first.

[72 tigger]

I think the fenders will look good. Could you use the front half of one hood & the back half of the other? (only one joint)

[steveperry]

72tigger, that's what I realized after I had already cut... That's why the back half is green and the front grey. Should have taken another minute to think of the process before cutting! I got a little over excited, hopefully I've learned my lesson. The passenger fender will be done that way.

[chosn 1]

looks like that will definitely give you more room!, although it seems like a lot more work and panel massaging.

[Dieselwrencher]

That sure makes the Dakota Digital VHX system a lot nicer. I have a lot of extra gauges integrated into mine and I'm still $1500 cheaper than the $3500 price tag of this one you guys were looking at.

[steveperry]

Did a little work on the truck today...got the broken exhaust manifold bolts out!! But broke two of the hoops on the head..ugh!!! How hard is it to weld cast iron? I've youtubed it and it seems not too difficult but who knows?

[Dieselwrencher]

I've welded them back on with a mig welder. This cast has a high nickle content and welds pretty nice. I ground the sides out to a V and filled them in. I haven't heard from the owners of either of those trucks. But, before you go through all that worl. Take the head and have it magnafluxed. Especially if it is a navistar casting.

[steveperry]

Dieselwrencher what's the significance of a navistar casting? They prone to be bad or something? And how do I tell if it is or not? I googled it and nothing really came up.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by steveperry

Dieselwrencher what's the significance of a navistar casting? They prone to be bad or something? And how do I tell if it is or not? I googled it and nothing really came up.

The navistar casted heads are prone to cracking. I haven't had one yet that passed a magnufluxing. There will be a navistar logo near the rear lifting bracket on the head. I will post a picture in a few for you.

[steveperry]

So dieselwrencher, guessing that's what I've got. Zoomed in on a picture of the head and....

[Dieselwrencher]

Yep, that's it. I'd take it to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed. It's better to find out now rather than later.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Yep, that's it. I'd take it to a machine shop and have it magnafluxed. It's better to find out now rather than later.

Are those the heads with the 9mm injector bores? If so, the Cummins service manual says that they are fine to use as long as the crack doesn't go through the valve seat and if it does then just have a valve seat insert installed.

[steveperry]

Got the head back. Got the exhaust bolts holes welded and it magnifluxed...no cracks!! Also got the head all cleaned up and put back on, starting to reassemble.

[steveperry]

Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck

Are those the heads with the 9mm injector bores? If so, the Cummins service manual says that they are fine to use as long as the crack doesn't go through the valve seat and if it does then just have a valve seat insert installed.

I'm not sure. I think they're 9mm but I'll have to measure

[1985-GMC]

They're 7mm. 9mm were the non intercooled 89-91 engines. They were prone to cracking there by the injector bore. Different than the navistar or 53 blocks due to inferior casting and/or low nickel content.