Rolling on primer

[NONHOG]

Hey guys its been a while. I'm still truckless (Chevy truck anyway) but I have a Chevy project car and I need help. Always found good suggestions here. My situation is I moved to Arizona for health reasons and left behind my shop and many tools. So not only do I have no room for a compressor I should not be spraying for health reasons. Besides I'm now in an HOA and even if I wanted to spray I could get in trouble. So out with the question, can I roll on DTM high build primer? The one I am looking at from my local Sherwin Williams is ACME FP415. I'm ok with extra sanding. I've seen Eastwood's set up but it's sure expensive. (fixed income) Ideas/thoughts welcome, thanks!

[MP&C]

Your high builds are typically very porous and thus do poorly at sealing the metal. As suggested by this from the ACME FP415 TDS:

"* For complete refinishing of larger bare metal areas, it is recommended to use an etch primer to ensure complete corrosion protection."


Since etch primer is so 20th century, I would recommend an initial 3 coats of epoxy primer to seal the metal from any moisture intrusion. Some, like SPI and H/K already have higher build characteristics than most epoxies, and can give a more stable substrate with the benefits of using a high build. Of course all of this assumes that you are taking things to bare metal.. If you are just scuffing a factory finish, then the high build should be fine over that substrate.


I always said Eastwood bought a couple sea containers of cheap paint rollers and the marketing geniuses that they are, figured out how to sell them at 1000% markup But in all seriousness, you should be able to brush, roll, or spray on an epoxy or whatever finish. The hard part is going to be establishing a relationship with a shop to do the topcoat, as most won't trust the prep beneath unless they did the work themselves. Too worried about any primer delamination as any poor prep that occurred prior and because they did the final finish, it's always "XYZ shop painted it for me". Granted, you can roll on a urethane finish and block it out as well.


At the end of the day, no matter how unorthodox the application method may seem to some, I would use the opportunity and select the best product you can afford, given how labor intensive this will be.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by MP&C

Your high builds are typically very porous and thus do poorly at sealing the metal. As suggested by this from the ACME FP415 TDS:

"* For complete refinishing of larger bare metal areas, it is recommended to use an etch primer to ensure complete corrosion protection."


Since etch primer is so 20th century, I would recommend an initial 3 coats of epoxy primer to seal the metal from any moisture intrusion. Some, like SPI and H/K already have higher build characteristics than most epoxies, and can give a more stable substrate with the benefits of using a high build. Of course all of this assumes that you are taking things to bare metal.. If you are just scuffing a factory finish, then the high build should be fine over that substrate.


I always said Eastwood bought a couple sea containers of cheap paint rollers and the marketing geniuses that they are, figured out how to sell them at 1000% markup But in all seriousness, you should be able to brush, roll, or spray on an epoxy or whatever finish. The hard part is going to be establishing a relationship with a shop to do the topcoat, as most won't trust the prep beneath unless they did the work themselves. Too worried about any primer delamination as any poor prep that occurred prior and because they did the final finish, it's always "XYZ shop painted it for me". Granted, you can roll on a urethane finish and block it out as well.


At the end of the day, no matter how unorthodox the application method may seem to some, I would use the opportunity and select the best product you can afford, given how labor intensive this will be.

Good info, thanks! I figure the Eastwood set up is at least $150.00 higher than it needs to be. My best math-guess

I will talk to SPI tomorrow.

[hugger6933]

PPG's lower line Omni has a high build that is a roll on after doing some checking the some number for the regular high build MP282 I think off the top of my head but like stated above you need a DTM and the MP282 isnt what your looking for it calls for a etch or epoxy under it .I have rolled a small amount of MP282 but it has been several years ago I just find it is as easy to mix a oz or so in the gun to blow spots but you said that isnt you option. Like you said above the SPI people may help

[NONHOG]

SPI said sure roll it, brush it no prob. I did ask about using a Preval sprayer (for grills etc.) said I'd probably need to reduce it for that sprayer to work. I'll ask what to use to do that. Its about 200/gallon (kit) price isn't a huge deal but I do think SPI might be better way to go than Eastwood. My neighbor builds Hot Rods here in Tucson so I may higher him to spray the grills etc.
I'm toying with the idea of leaving it primed. SPI said it won't last but would be okay for several years (probably not parked outside in AZ!-which I don't plan on doing)

I'll touch base with how it goes. One concern is how it will look scuffed/sanded?
Worse or maybe "best" case is I get it topcoated.