Some Welding Tips for the DYI'ers

[dwcsr]

These are good resources for welding advice.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/ or
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-center.aspx

You can also email them with specific questions on your welding projects such as wire type, Gas vs Flux, material types you intend to weld and even what size machines you should buy.

[Wheelie]

Remove all mill scale, cold rolled steel is cleaner steel that requires less prep for welding. hot rolled steel is generally cheaper but has a lot more mill scale and requires more prep.

Butt welds air gap are generally half material thickness. Example: 1/8 steel butted to another piece of 1/8 should have an air gap between them when welding of 1/16 inch. This applies to the thicker steels more used for chassis fab.

My personal machine at home is a Hobart (miller) Handler 210 230V MIG 210 Amp Output.
220 welders are ideal IMO for chassis fab work due to better penetration cababilities on the thicker materials. I generally use a typical mix gas used for MIG welding and run about 20-25 psi at the regulator for clean welds. Gas is a must IMO for strong clean welds.

Keep the gun at a slight rake to the back and watch your puddle. Welding is all about heat control and knowing what its going to do so practice, practice, practice, practice.

Dont settle for crappy welds because it could be your life or somone elses you could be putting in danger. Have fun!!

[1959 Apache 3600]

Great posts everyone...

Keep 'em coming!

[bsccp]

OK here's my .02. Strictly an amature DIY, but here's what I've learned over the years.
I bought a Hobart 125 Handler at HF and then added the gas kit, about $100 plus bottle purchase or lease. Personally I started using a gas mix of 90% argon and 10% CO2. OK, I know most people will say why don't you use 75/25? Far easier to find. I did a '65 Mustang fb, both floor pans and trunk and very rusty. Pros will say that the 90/10 runs hotter but with the limited power settings of the Hobart I found good penetration on 18 ga without too much heat.
I've used flux core for exterior work and it works very well. I use wire from a welding store, E-7, just for reproduceable results. Flux core comes in .030 while gas wire will come in .023 or .024. FYI check your tips on to make sure they are correct size!
Two items I think help when using MIG. MIG pliers ($8 HF) to clean and replace tips, cut wire etc.. Welding jelly (antisplatter). Don't know exactly what it is but if you lubricate the tip (no jokes please) and shield I get cleaner welds with less splatter. Also, there is a spray antisplatter that helps but surface prep is essential.
Used old school helment with flip down for years and had to add filters because I got a terrific headache with the OEM filter. My welding buddy let me use his $300 auto darkening helment and it is wonderful and makes welding much faster and no headaches!
I'm currently doing a S10/'51 GMC project and have found that the weld penetration on the frame and motor mounts are pretty solid. I used 3/8" plate for the motor mounts and it looks and feels solid. The frame mounts are all 1/8" and I get great welds. 120v Hobart. My welding buddy has a 220v Hobart and will finish off the structural welds just because his welds are much nicer! Less grinding. I know that 16-18 ga will be no problem with the same rig.
Just like painting, preparation is key. Vertical welds take patience and a fraction of a second between puddles helped me to avoid runs.
Just my opinion but it is satisfying.
,,

[hotrodrookie]

Mig tips:

Pam Cooking Spray= cheap, non toxic anti-spatter spray.

Contact tips: Grind them to a cone line point. The purpose is to reduce the surface area vulnerable to catching spatter, thus increasing the life of you contact tips. It works.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by rpmerf

I have the HF auto darkening helmet, its been fine so far. It was a bit scary wondering how long it will last....

when mine quit working I got darker it the point I couldn't see to weld. but it was 10 years old.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by hotrodrookie

Mig tips:

Pam Cooking Spray= cheap, non toxic anti-spatter spray.

Contact tips: Grind them to a cone line point. The purpose is to reduce the surface area vulnerable to catching spatter, thus increasing the life of you contact tips. It works.

hmm, sounds interesting. havet heard that one, i think i will try it.

would it work well with flux core? its all i have tried since i only have the 90 amp hf welder

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by duwem

WELDERS:

Mig Welder:
Fux core welders make a hug mess, think stick welder. I believe most are farily low amperage and probably not strong enough for structural work.

flux core is all i use. i use to work maintenance for dana heavy axle division.
all heavy truck rear ends are assembled with flux core welding.
why? because it is strong and cheap.
brake backing plate bracket, shock bracket and spring pads are welded on the axle with flux core.

i have a 110 volt, lincoln weldpac100, bought from hd for $300, 10 yrs ago.
the weldpac100 heavy enough to weld anything on a truck.
i welded my mustII x-member on without any problem.
i never run out of gas, i can plug it in anywhere, it's very portable and my welder is always ready.

my $39 hf autodark shield still works after 10 yrs.

a hint: if you haven't used it for a while and the autodark won't work...
lay it outside, face up on a sunny day.
they have an internal battery with a solar charger.
welding charges the battery, but laying it in the sun does too.

[OKGMC4]

A while back I made a comment about the HF helmets where I said it was good for 30 minutes at a time but I wouldn't use it if I were an 8 hour a day welder by trade. I got that proven to myself last weekend...I was welding off and on for 7 hours...building an exhaust for my 56 and adding a magnaflow and turnouts on my 08 Ram, plus making brackets and such. Well, about 5 hours later I felt like I had sand in my eyes. The HF helmets are fine short term but I think the name brand helmets ARE better.

[Panelman55]

Originally Posted by hotrodrookie

Mig tips:

Pam Cooking Spray= cheap, non toxic anti-spatter spray.

Contact tips: Grind them to a cone line point. The purpose is to reduce the surface area vulnerable to catching spatter, thus increasing the life of you contact tips. It works.

Never heard of using Pam! Odd! I have always sharpened tips, it helps a lot.
Great info, But my Question is "Is it safe to weld a frame with a 110 Volt unit?"


Panelman55

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Panelman55

"Is it safe to weld a frame with a 110 Volt unit?"


Panelman55

short answer? yes, it will safely weld anything on a truck. (not cast iron)

long answer? most people can't weld safely with anything, it's all a matter of ability.
luckily most people don't hang out here...

i started out pipe welding, fitting and fabricating in my 20's, some 30 yrs ago.
i knew people that could tig weld an aluminum can together.
can i? heck no, not safely...