Easiest way to level out my 1968 custom camper 3/4

[murguia]

Picked up a beautiful and practically rust free 1968 custom camper 3/4 ton. I’m the second owner on this original patina truck. 396 with 80k original miles, ps, pb, ac that still works...

It is all stock and the rear sits about 2” higher than the front. I want to level it out, whether that is bring the back down an inch or the front up one inch

What’s the easiest way to do this? It’s springs all around.

Also, what’s the largest size tire I can fit on here? If anyone has some relatively stock 3/4 tons with leveling to 1” lift, pictures would be great

I want to drive this thing daily but I want it level with some beefier tires

Nick
Posted via Mobile Device

[72c20customcamper]

Drop spacers/ blocks . Going with 1 drop springs may not give you any drop since the old ones have probably dropped at least an inch

Thats a nice looking truck

[Mike C]

That's a great truck. 265 75 16 is an excellent tire size for a C20. I also would go with a 1" block in the back if it's a coil spring truck.

[murguia]

Right on, I appreciate the info! I’ll look into some one inch blocks for the rear.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by murguia

Picked up a beautiful and practically rust free 1968 custom camper 3/4 ton. I’m the second owner on this original patina truck. 396 with 80k original miles, ps, pb, ac that still works...

It is all stock and the rear sits about 1” higher than the front. I want to level it out, whether that is bring the back down an inch or the front up one inch

What’s the easiest way to do this? It’s springs all around.

Also, what’s the largest size tire I can fit on here? If anyone has some relatively stock 3/4 tons with leveling to 1” lift, pictures would be great

I want to drive this thing daily but I want it level with some beefier tires

Nick
Posted via Mobile Device

Looks to be a custom camper to boot. I would recomend new coil springs in the front. I just ordered some new front coil springs and optional rear leaf springs for my 1968 C20 custom camper from Eaton Detroit Spring.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/findmyvehicle/

[Richard]

Looks to be a trailing arm truck. Agree 1" block in back will be easiest route.

[toms68cst]

Nice truck! Looks a lot like mine.

I wouldn't have even noticed that it's a little bit higher in the back. Pretty common stance for a stock C20.

[leddzepp]

I too leveled my 68 with rear blocks, easy peasy.

[murguia]

Right on! Thanks everyone. I’ve always owned original short beds, but I’m slowly converting to long beds these days. The extra bed space makes a huge difference
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[67 chevelle]

Nice truck

[jocko]

Rather than "what is easiest" - I'd ask what look you prefer - a C20 that is lowered with a block in the rear to make it level -or- a C20 that is raised in the front to make it level? Quite different looks, depends on which you prefer. A raked look for a C20 is normal. Is this because it just doesn't look right to you, a personal preference for level, etc? I understand - while I don't mind this look on a C20 at all, I can't stand the low-in-the-front 1/2 4x4 look on GM trucks in the 2000's and newer, have always leveled mine out (just seems right for a 4x4 to me, so I completely understand if you just want to level for personal preference). Having said all that - Love(!) your truck, very nice find, congrats!

[NorCalC20LWB]

Second the 265/75/16 tire size, fills out the wheel wells nicely. As far as lower the back or raise the front, I had my rear leafs re-arched (arced?) to get rid of the raked look. So, stock height front, lower rear.

[k29349]

Maybe I,m old school, but a leveled truck looks like the ass is sagging unless the whole truck has been lowered and you are going for the lowered look. A leveled 4X4 looks even worse. It,s almost as bad as the Carolina Squat. I like the look of a lowered 2 wheel drive. I still like a very slight rake. Truck in the pic above looks good to me.

[murguia]

Originally Posted by jocko

Rather than "what is easiest" - I'd ask what look you prefer - a C20 that is lowered with a block in the rear to make it level -or- a C20 that is raised in the front to make it level? Quite different looks, depends on which you prefer. A raked look for a C20 is normal. Is this because it just doesn't look right to you, a personal preference for level, etc? I understand - while I don't mind this look on a C20 at all, I can't stand the low-in-the-front 1/2 4x4 look on GM trucks in the 2000's and newer, have always leveled mine out (just seems right for a 4x4 to me, so I completely understand if you just want to level for personal preference). Having said all that - Love(!) your truck, very nice find, congrats!

It’s just a personal preference to level it out back, or have it sit slightly higher than the front. I’ve never lifted a truck, but I’m really coming to love original lifted trucks that aren’t too high.

I just purchased a rear 1.75” lowering block. I’m hoping this does the trick.
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[Big Kev-O]

The factory rake forces you to lean forward in the seat which can be very uncomfortable on long rides. Not a fan of the stink bug look either. Dropping the rear is simple compared to lifting the front. I tried to find some taller front springs but all of the ones I found had a higher spring rate and these trucks are already stiff. There are 1" spacers you can install under the front spring but it raises the truck 2-3" which would probably effect suspension & steering geometry and require a upper ball joint spacer. Rear spacer is the way to go for the trailing arm guys.

[murguia]

Originally Posted by NorCalC20LWB

Second the 265/75/16 tire size, fills out the wheel wells nicely. As far as lower the back or raise the front, I had my rear leafs re-arched (arced?) to get rid of the raked look. So, stock height front, lower rear.

Beautiful truck. That's exactly how I'd like mine to sit

[northerngmc]

I dropped my 68 C20 2" in the front and 4" in the rear to level and lower it. You could just use 2" lower coils in the rear to achieve level.

I am running 18" x 9" wheels with 265/65R18 tires. They fill the wheel wells up nicely.

Also a 396 A/C PS PB custom camper truck. Drives great!

[duke10]

I have a 72 GMC custom camper and also want to lower the rear. My truck has the rear leaf springs on top of the axle. Is there an easy cost effective way to lower the truck and level it?
Thank you

[duke10]

I really like the way Norcals green truck sits

[NorCalC20LWB]

Originally Posted by duke10

I really like the way Norcals green truck sits

Thanks Duke, like I mentioned above I had the rear leafs re-arced or arched, whatever you call it. I know the cheaper way to lower the rear is to take out some leaf springs, but that seems to have mixed reviews. Other more knowledgeable folks can comment on whether that's a good idea or not.

Thanks for the compliment...
Brian

[duke10]

So your truck also has the leaf springs on top of the axle?

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by duke10

So your truck also has the leaf springs on top of the axle?

All leaf trucks the leafs are on top of the axle . If you do a flip kit the axle is on top and should if not must have a c notch in the frame .I think you end up with a 6inch drop. Seen people put 4x4 shackles to bring it back up .

[NorCalC20LWB]

Originally Posted by duke10

So your truck also has the leaf springs on top of the axle?

Yes, started life as a Custom Camper, so a pretty hefty spring pack on top of the axle.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by duke10

I have a 72 GMC custom camper and also want to lower the rear. My truck has the rear leaf springs on top of the axle. Is there an easy cost effective way to lower the truck and level it?
Thank you

With a rear leaf setup you can get a drop shackle which is a cost effective way to lower. They usually have a few different holes in them to fine tune how much you want to lower it. They maintain the carrying capacity as well since you aren't changing the leaf spring.

[duke10]

Thank you Bnorth