radiator questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mikajo39 · 06-01-2009, 04:14 PM

So I took my radiator to my local radiator shop and they said it was in need of a recore they would do it for 325 which seems exspensive. It is a "heavy duty A/C" one which im guessing means it's a 4 row radiator or something. Anyways do you guys think it'd be worth it to recore it or get a new replacement 4 row http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

PanelDeland · 06-01-2009, 04:17 PM

I think you should check the auto parts store.Many members have bought them for in the $150.00 range.Hopefully someone will chime in with better references.

chevychase · 06-01-2009, 04:45 PM

RustyParts · 06-01-2009, 04:54 PM

I bought a 4 core at Autozone for 179.00 last summer.

ChevLoRay · 06-01-2009, 05:58 PM

I bought one at a radiator shop nearby for less than $150. It is a 4-row core radiator, but made in Brazil. Cools real well, too.

**rockc** · 06-01-2009, 08:46 PM

I checked at auto zone today and they quoted me a 4 row one at $178.99. But undecided to go with a 3 or 4 core. running 350 eng 350 tranny

mikajo39 · 06-01-2009, 09:22 PM

I hear 3 cores flow more but you loose surface area and with 4 cores you get more surface area but loose flow. If i had A/C should i get a 4 core again? or should i just upgrade to an aluminum one?

**El Jay** · 06-01-2009, 09:29 PM

I had my original; recored to a 3 core, but only because I had an insect up my lower alimentary canal (this is a family forum, ya know!) & wanted to keep the original "Harrison" tanks.
But it works just fine.

mikajo39 · 06-01-2009, 09:36 PM

Hmm , I'll probably just get a new 4 core the one on summit is a direct drop in replacement for 229 which is not outrageous for a radiator in my opinion. I dont really think I need an aluminum one. Although, if i do remember correctly I remember reading someone on the board bought a new alumnium radiator for around 220. I wish I rememberd the guy he bought it from.

sleepertruck72 · 06-01-2009, 09:46 PM

I bought a generic 3 row from 1-800-radiatior It was around $200 IIRC
I know the shops around here dont charge that much to re-core but I wanted a new one. If you get the one from Summit we will want to see pics of it installed

UltraBlue71 · 06-01-2009, 09:48 PM

content removed

mikajo39 · 06-01-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UltraBlue71

content removed

I wish it were a manual life would be a lot easier but no I have a Th-400 so I'd need to buy a tranny cooler.

mikajo39 · 06-01-2009, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepertruck72

I bought a generic 3 row from 1-800-radiatior It was around $200 IIRC
I know the shops around here dont charge that much to re-core but I wanted a new one. If you get the one from Summit we will want to see pics of it installed

The summit one is a proliance radiator. It looks pretty much like the oem one so if I do order that one I will post pictures for all of you to see

tim21391 · 06-02-2009, 12:42 AM

i know this is off topic.. but i bought an aftermarket radiator from o reillys about 8 months ago for my eclipse.. and i have had no problem with it.. comes with lifetime warrenty.. so i would go that route .. it was $200.. so i was just telling you that quality would be about the same and that if it were me i would go new route.. they might miss something when they recore it... im not sure just saying..

Longhorn Man · 06-02-2009, 06:20 PM

there is nothing to "miss" when recoring it. All you get back is your old tanks after the entire core is replaced, and everything gets tested at well over the pressures that it'll see in your truck.

That price is rather high. However, it has come to the day that even rodding out a light duty truck or car rad is not cost effective. The labor rate is just too high, yet, the guys working in the rad shop are struggeling to make ends meet becouse it isn't enough.

If you get a new one, a 3 row core is fine for most aplications. The cores in the new rads are not made like the 40 year old ones, they flow more water, and they flow more air. A 4 row is going to cool more, however, not much.
The problem with a 4 row, is by the time the incomiong air that cools the tubes gets to the last row, it is so warm, that it has little to no cooling effect.
I would go with a 3 row unless you do a lotta heavy towing, of if you have a hot rod engine in there. For a daily driver, stock to mild engine, a 3 row would be just fine.
When looking at the new rad, you'll need to take notice of a few things. The core width is very important on these since the hold downs and the rubber supports on the bottom hook to the tanks. Make sure that they will fit in the supports and the hold downs.
Hose diameters. Measure yours, and make sure that the new one is the same.
The heater hos nipple is not too important, you can reroute if need be, or block off the one on the new rad if need be... don't let that kill the deal.
lower hose mounting angle/location. This is crutial on these trucks. Later trucks, and some generic replacements have the hose coming straight out instead of at an angle. The hump in the frame will be in the way of the hose running straight out. If the new rad is cheap enough, you can have your old neck cut off your tank, and soldered to the tank on the new rad. The shop shouldn't charge you more than 25 - 45 bucks for that.
Tranny cooler line location... you're probably SOL on this if they aren't in the correct location. You'll have to bend new lines if this is the case... or carefully rebend the existing lines if the difference is minimal.
Alluminum is not needed, and the benifits are minimal in a stock or just a couple notches over stock aplications. There's disadvantages to them too though. Many shops won't mess with them if they need work, while a copper/brass unit can be worked on over and over. Plus the plastic tanks and gaskets on most of them can be a real pain.
hope this helps.

06-01-2009, 04:14 PM	#1
mikajo39 Gearhead and audio junkie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: nunyah Posts: 452	radiator questions So I took my radiator to my local radiator shop and they said it was in need of a recore they would do it for 325 which seems exspensive. It is a "heavy duty A/C" one which im guessing means it's a 4 row radiator or something. Anyways do you guys think it'd be worth it to recore it or get a new replacement 4 row http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

06-01-2009, 04:17 PM	#2
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: radiator questions I think you should check the auto parts store.Many members have bought them for in the $150.00 range.Hopefully someone will chime in with better references. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

06-01-2009, 04:45 PM	#3
chevychase Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Boca Raton, FL Posts: 476	Re: radiator questions __________________ Joe

06-01-2009, 04:54 PM	#4
RustyParts Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Wyman, Kentucky Posts: 403	Re: radiator questions I bought a 4 core at Autozone for 179.00 last summer. __________________ 1972 GMC Jimmy, 4WD, 454 CI, 350 Turbo, 4" lift, 35" tires The math teacher said my son "Bubba" could be a mathmatical genius. cause he's got 13 fingers! Last edited by RustyParts; 06-01-2009 at 04:54 PM.

06-01-2009, 05:58 PM	#5
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	Re: radiator questions I bought one at a radiator shop nearby for less than $150. It is a 4-row core radiator, but made in Brazil. Cools real well, too. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

06-01-2009, 08:46 PM	#6
rockc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: SE WY Posts: 633	Re: radiator questions I checked at auto zone today and they quoted me a 4 row one at $178.99. But undecided to go with a 3 or 4 core. running 350 eng 350 tranny __________________ 72 chevy 3/4 ton 4X4

06-01-2009, 09:22 PM	#7
mikajo39 Gearhead and audio junkie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: nunyah Posts: 452	Re: radiator questions I hear 3 cores flow more but you loose surface area and with 4 cores you get more surface area but loose flow. If i had A/C should i get a 4 core again? or should i just upgrade to an aluminum one?

06-01-2009, 09:29 PM	#8
El Jay Gone to greener pastures Join Date: May 2007 Location: Gateway to the Delta Posts: 7,354	Re: radiator questions I had my original; recored to a 3 core, but only because I had an insect up my lower alimentary canal (this is a family forum, ya know!) & wanted to keep the original "Harrison" tanks. But it works just fine. __________________ '69 Chevy 1/2 T LWB Stepper: Daily Beater '72 GMC 3/4 T Fleet: Another Daily Beater '72 Plymouth Gran Coupe: ? "Ah women. They make the highs higher and the lows more frequent." Friedrich Nietzsche "Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day." Harry S. Truman GUN CONTROL: Never having to say, "I missed you." Always fire two warning shots into your attacker's chest area before putting a bullet between his eyes. Paraphrased from Louis Awerbuck

06-01-2009, 09:36 PM	#9
mikajo39 Gearhead and audio junkie Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: nunyah Posts: 452	Re: radiator questions Hmm , I'll probably just get a new 4 core the one on summit is a direct drop in replacement for 229 which is not outrageous for a radiator in my opinion. I dont really think I need an aluminum one. Although, if i do remember correctly I remember reading someone on the board bought a new alumnium radiator for around 220. I wish I rememberd the guy he bought it from.

06-01-2009, 09:46 PM	#10
sleepertruck72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Turlock California 95380 Posts: 2,075	Re: radiator questions I bought a generic 3 row from 1-800-radiatior It was around $200 IIRC I know the shops around here dont charge that much to re-core but I wanted a new one. If you get the one from Summit we will want to see pics of it installed __________________ 72 C20 Longbed 05 1500 Z71

06-01-2009, 09:48 PM	#11
UltraBlue71 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: OKC OK Posts: 489	Re: radiator questions content removed __________________ "You can put lipstick on a pig, sure it's pretty pig, but it's still just a PIG... 71 LWB Last edited by Longhorn Man; 06-02-2009 at 06:07 PM.

06-02-2009, 12:42 AM	#14
tim21391 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Salina, Kansas Posts: 1,998	Re: radiator questions i know this is off topic.. but i bought an aftermarket radiator from o reillys about 8 months ago for my eclipse.. and i have had no problem with it.. comes with lifetime warrenty.. so i would go that route .. it was $200.. so i was just telling you that quality would be about the same and that if it were me i would go new route.. they might miss something when they recore it... im not sure just saying.. __________________ 1972 C-10...402/400..flowmaster 40 series 1967 Mustang 347 stroker/C-4 1966 Mustang 289/3-speed 2013 Mustang V6/6speed w/300 ponies I may be 23, but i sure do knows 67-72s are sexy! Its not MPG its smiles per gallon! build started 11/25/08 build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=2993796

06-02-2009, 06:20 PM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: radiator questions there is nothing to "miss" when recoring it. All you get back is your old tanks after the entire core is replaced, and everything gets tested at well over the pressures that it'll see in your truck. That price is rather high. However, it has come to the day that even rodding out a light duty truck or car rad is not cost effective. The labor rate is just too high, yet, the guys working in the rad shop are struggeling to make ends meet becouse it isn't enough. If you get a new one, a 3 row core is fine for most aplications. The cores in the new rads are not made like the 40 year old ones, they flow more water, and they flow more air. A 4 row is going to cool more, however, not much. The problem with a 4 row, is by the time the incomiong air that cools the tubes gets to the last row, it is so warm, that it has little to no cooling effect. I would go with a 3 row unless you do a lotta heavy towing, of if you have a hot rod engine in there. For a daily driver, stock to mild engine, a 3 row would be just fine. When looking at the new rad, you'll need to take notice of a few things. The core width is very important on these since the hold downs and the rubber supports on the bottom hook to the tanks. Make sure that they will fit in the supports and the hold downs. Hose diameters. Measure yours, and make sure that the new one is the same. The heater hos nipple is not too important, you can reroute if need be, or block off the one on the new rad if need be... don't let that kill the deal. lower hose mounting angle/location. This is crutial on these trucks. Later trucks, and some generic replacements have the hose coming straight out instead of at an angle. The hump in the frame will be in the way of the hose running straight out. If the new rad is cheap enough, you can have your old neck cut off your tank, and soldered to the tank on the new rad. The shop shouldn't charge you more than 25 - 45 bucks for that. Tranny cooler line location... you're probably SOL on this if they aren't in the correct location. You'll have to bend new lines if this is the case... or carefully rebend the existing lines if the difference is minimal. Alluminum is not needed, and the benifits are minimal in a stock or just a couple notches over stock aplications. There's disadvantages to them too though. Many shops won't mess with them if they need work, while a copper/brass unit can be worked on over and over. Plus the plastic tanks and gaskets on most of them can be a real pain. hope this helps.



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