4WD Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Tutorial

[SkylineNXS]

So this is basically like the most fun way you could spend 6 hrs, no doubt. Couple trips to autozone, and bam, new wheel bearing. This will tell you what you need and how to go about replacing a front wheel bearing on a 2000 gmc sierra 4WD. The 2WD is even easier, but employs a similar bearing.

Descriptions come first as im too lazy to get a photobucket or the like, so pics will follow each post.

Start by jackin up the one side and remove the wheel. I find it easiest to do this in 4 wheel as the wheel cannot spin, and it is easy to remove the nuts. Throughout it may be easier to be in either 2 or 4 wheel, as i will mention, and you can switch without starting the truck, so thats always nice.

Next you want to remove the one bolt that holds on the Brake Line retainer. This is a 10mm bolt. You will also need to unclip the wheel speed sensor cable from this bracket as it will prevent it from moving very far. You can remove the rest of the speed sensor cable at this time if you like. The new bearing includes the cable and all clips, so if you need to destroy one to get it off, dont worry about it.

Next, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper ASSEMBLY on. I capitalize to try and enforce the correct bolts. Removing the 2 torx style bolts will only allow the caliper and not the caliper bracket to be removed, which is useless as the rotor will not be able to be removed. The two you need to remove are 18mm bolts. Once you remove the bolts, the caliper should "slide" off, sometimes with a little extra help, and you can place it on top of the upper a arm. It will sit fine, but i always like to put a bungie cord or wire around it, as i kno ill probably be beatin on other parts.

Onto the hub. Pry off the hut nut cover with a screwdriver, or whatever means you might have. It can be a pita to remove. You will now need a 1-3/8 inch socket to remove the hub nut. I have a large set of sockets, but you may need to purchase this one. Remove the nut and the washer beneath it.

[SkylineNXS]

Once the nut is removed, which basically apperas to do nothing, you'll move onto the back side. There are three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel beraing assembly onto the spindle. These are best removed using a 3/8 drive with a short extension to put the socket driver out past the boot. The upper bolt is a little more difficult and can only be started with the socket as it will get stuck in btwn the bolt and the upper ball joint bolt. You can trim the upper ball joint bolt or just use a box end wrench to finish removing it. I left these three bolts in place as it was easier that way.

Now, with either pb blaster or wd40 or whatever u like to use, soak the inner spline and the outer triangular bearing assembly pieces to try and start workin em off. You will want to soak the back of the bearing (inner side) once you perform the next step.

Although this step isnt entirely necessary, i didnt want to just beat on the axle shaft, so i went and got a puller from autozone. Using this, i pushed the axle shaft out (inner side) as far as it would go. Eventually, the cv's run out of space, so the axle may not completely clear the back of the bearing. This is fine as you have broken any rust that may have prevented it from moving previously.

This will however basically do nothing for the bearing being nicely rusted into the spindle. In order to remove this, some beatin may need to be done. As it is a circular loose press fit, you will want to work your way around when trying to get it off. I used a flat crowbar and a hammer, started at the top where the soon to be usless old wheel speed sensor was. There is a small gap there that will help in starting the removal. after breakin most of the rust, the bearing should come out, should.

After this, as mine was, you will want to make sure u clean all the surfaces that you may have affected with the crowbar. Be sure to file down any imperfections as these will affect the way the bearing seats onto the spindle. Hopefully by now you've noticed that there is the brake guard in between the bearing and the spindle. Be sure this is also cleaned and any high spots filed down.

Sorry for the now starting cell pics, the camera ran outta battery right in the middle....

[SkylineNXS]

And now the reassembly can begin. It is easiest to put the truck in 2WD for this part as you will need to put the hub onto the spline, then rotate to get the bolts to line up. As there should be no rust on the new hub, it should easily slide onto the axle spline. If it doesnt, you may want to clean the axle spline. As i did not do the first time, ensure that the brake guard is facing the right way before putting bolts in. It should be rather close to the rodend for the steering, and not sticking out towards the outside of the truck. Also at this time, make sure the new wheel speed sensor cable is routed through the brake guard and it going upwards as it originally did behind the guard. As said before, since this is a circular light press fit, you will want to get all the bolts started on the new bearing assembly, then tighten them down together, not one at a time, so that the bearing is not incorrectly seated in the spindle. I did about a half turn at a time for each of the three bolts until they were tight.

Now you can but the hub nut and washer back on, and tighten down as well. This is once again easiest in 4WD as the axle will not spin. I dont have any pics past this point as i didnt think they were necessary, and i was getting cold.

Replace the hub cover and caliper. If the pistons moved in the caliper, from you pushing the brake pedal or from residual pressure, you may need to grab a c clamp and a thin piece of wood, maybe a shim, and press the pistons back into the caliper in order for it to slide over the rotor. Replace the 2 bolts and then replace the brake line retaining clip and bolt on the top of the spindle. You can now clip in the new wheel speed sensor cable in its appropriate places, and plug it in.

Now replace the wheel and wheel nuts, give it a test drive, bring it back and check all the bolts, tighten everything up, and your good.....

Brad