Nitrous?

[69halfton]

just a little confusion.

Im 16 years old, and am looking for a little more kick out of my 383 stroker.

of course, im on a budget like many guys here, but as you could geuss mine is a bit smaller then most of you guys.

My motor has a fresh rebuild, with all forged internals, and its a 4 bolt main.
Im sorta thinking about doing a nitrous fogger setup.

my questions are: obviously nitrous is basically pure oxygen, so do you not have to add more fuel to the mix when running with the nitrous? I dont want to have to re-jet the carb to go racing everytime.

I dont know much about the Nitrous, but once installed, how much does it cost to buy more, and where do i get it>?

...sorry, i feel like quite the rookie.

[shortbed70]

You must add more fuel to keep things cool and take out timing. You could get by with jetting the carb once but it will be rich under regular driving. What kind of carb do you have? Also was the motor built for nitrous? I would go with a plate kit it would be cheaper than a fogger setup and you'de be surprised with 100hp jet. As far as cost I don't know check with a fire extinguisher refill place. I haven't personally used it but I've worked and played in a few cars\trucks with it to know its tempermental until U find a right tune. We do 4 degrees out for 100 and 2 per 50hp after. I've been told its expensive because once you hit that button once you want to again and again and again........ Maybe some pros will say more info.

[Couch]

if you do it,be prepared to turn into a junky. its addicting as said above. a cheap cheater plate is good to a 250 shot.Plenty. im running one right now.on a stock crank,rods and hyper speed pros(not the best idea). but its had i'd say well over 20 bottles ran through it.im running a shot that dyno proved making 150hp at the wheels. and when it hits it hits hard.lol.hard enough to where if your not on good tire(slicks or drag radials) it'll break loose pretty bad.

but you will need to add more fuel. i took my stock gas tank pickup and drilled a hole next to the original pickup tube and ran a secondary pickup tube that goes to its own electric fuel pump,then to a regulator,then to the solonoid which goes to the plate.2* of timing backed out for every 50hp shot is standard.set the regulator at 5 1/2psi flowing(with the pump running).and flow the fuel line into a cup through a jet.i use a 73 nitrous jet when flowing and make sure the flow doesnt change after holding the solonoid open for a good time(as long as the shot will be held on for). this is to make sure you dont lose fuel pressure and run the shot lean,just making sure your fuel pump can keep up.on mine i have a holley blue electric pump.supplies plenty.then just hook it all up.oh and make sure both solonoids share the same ground and hot(so if one doesnt ground they both dont work.) and put the jets in for the shot you want.and depending on how big it is you may wanna put some 110 in just to be safe. then rock it.lol. just make sure the rev limiter never gets hit on the squirt.bad boogey.

a refill for a 10lb. bottle is usually 30 to 40 bucks.but well worth the fun.

[hotrod 80]

$4 a pound down here . 10 # bottle usually $20-$25 , I don't run them empty . I have a NOS cheater plate with dedicated fuel pump and regulator also . I run 93 octane unless it's really hot . I set mine up at 6 psi fuel pressure to be safe . I bought all my parts off of Ebay and built the system . I installed everything and took it to the local nitrous guru and had him double check everything to make sure i didn't start hurting parts . I bought him lunch for doing this and we became good friiends . Now that i have some experience with it it is easier to understand . I also have 2 tune ups 1 big and 1 small . I like it i almost always have it ready incase I need it . You would be surprised how many times I purge and make motor passes , but it is there when I need it . I use a wide open switch , thumb button and a dash button . There are various switches to arrange it how I want it . I also like to purge through the motor .

[71Dragtruck]

I'll add to the above info, I also dropped one number to a colder plug, a good ignition is important. I also run a fuel pressure safety switch so if my pressure drops to 5 1/2 or less my nitrous kicks out (I run 6psi flowing). My CDI box drops timing when my nitrous kicks in, and I run a bottle heater to keep my NOS pressure at 950psi and only make 3 runs 4 max on a 10lb. bottle then swap out. Last thing run good fuel filters, and a good nitrous filter.

[69halfton]

...the motor makes 450 horsepower currently, it was built with all forged internals, so i should think that it would stand up to a 150 shot.

in sure that a stock fuel pump wouldn't be able to supply a 600 horsepower motor, but ill ask anyway just to see

i was looking at summitracing there, and you can get the whole fogger system & a 10lb bottle for just under 1000 bucks minus shipping.

is this a good deal? or would i be getting ripped off?

[Couch]

thanks 71dragtruck. i missed that stuff. i ran a autolite 24.its a little colder. but a fogger is a bit overkill for what you want IMO. a plate setup is plain,easy and like 450$

[71Dragtruck]

Start small with a plate system, the words nitrous newbie and fogger should never be used in the same sentence. Don't want to sound harsh, but if your not going to take the advice of the ones your asking they why ask?? Sorry, just being straight forward with you.

[Alex1]

I'm more of a boost fan than nitrous - HOWEVER my only advice is start small and move up as you get experience. Nothing blows a budget more than an oil pan full of pistons.

Dont the kits inject nitrous and fuel at the same time?

[69halfton]

dont get me wrong, I'm listening to you guys very closely. I just ran across it when i was looking for the plate setups. i thought if it was a good deal, then I'd better jump at it while I have the chance. I do understand that the plate setup is way easier to install, tune, and maintain, and it is probably easier to learn with.

my other question is.

with stock suspension, will i even be able to hook 600 horsepower with just drag radials or slicks?

[Couch]

i have a probalem hooking 450whp outta the hole on slicks. the great thing with nitrous is you choose when to squirt it. so after you have it stuck in the groung you spray it. it should be ok.

[collin86]

Originally Posted by Couch

if you do it,be prepared to turn into a junky. its addicting as said above. a cheap cheater plate is good to a 250 shot.Plenty. im running one right now.on a stock crank,rods and hyper speed pros(not the best idea). but its had i'd say well over 20 bottles ran through it.im running a shot that dyno proved making 150hp at the wheels. and when it hits it hits hard.lol.hard enough to where if your not on good tire(slicks or drag radials) it'll break loose pretty bad.

but you will need to add more fuel. i took my stock gas tank pickup and drilled a hole next to the original pickup tube and ran a secondary pickup tube that goes to its own electric fuel pump,then to a regulator,then to the solonoid which goes to the plate.2* of timing backed out for every 50hp shot is standard.set the regulator at 5 1/2psi flowing(with the pump running).and flow the fuel line into a cup through a jet.i use a 73 nitrous jet when flowing and make sure the flow doesnt change after holding the solonoid open for a good time(as long as the shot will be held on for). this is to make sure you dont lose fuel pressure and run the shot lean,just making sure your fuel pump can keep up.on mine i have a holley blue electric pump.supplies plenty.then just hook it all up.oh and make sure both solonoids share the same ground and hot(so if one doesnt ground they both dont work.) and put the jets in for the shot you want.and depending on how big it is you may wanna put some 110 in just to be safe. then rock it.lol. just make sure the rev limiter never gets hit on the squirt.bad boogey.

a refill for a 10lb. bottle is usually 30 to 40 bucks.but well worth the fun.

20 bottles ran through stock internals...? are you running stock bolts too or ARP stuff. thats crazy...cool though

[shortbed70]

All about your motor sound good but what about your trans? Do you have a good convertor with balloning plates and has anything been done inside. I've seen some pretty heafty damage from n2o on a stock trans. If you want to go fogger fine but check and see if you can even tune it that low. I wouldn't just jump in and start 150 or even 100 I would do a 50 pill and do a power run then check your plugs and such then move up. As we all understand your motor has forged internals++++++ BUT there is a chance something could be off and being off at 50 shot will do alot less damage then having a cough at 150. But its your motor. By the way a stock pump wont cut it and get some saftey switches.

[Couch]

Originally Posted by collin86

20 bottles ran through stock internals...? are you running stock bolts too or ARP stuff. thats crazy...cool though

its all stock stuff. pink rods,stock bolts.all just balanced.on a real safe tune. makin a time bomb live long is all in your tune. one reason im opn the shot i am is that i dont have much invested in it and dont care if it pops.cause i have bigger plans in the shop right now.

[69halfton]

the tranny has been beefed up by a guy in town ( i dont know much about how a automatic transmission works)

My dad's friend had a this tranny built him a T350 that went behind a built 454 and never had any problems.... shift kit.

and a 2800 stall ( i needed low as i do some towing on occasion)

[Couch]

id say run it.ive done more with less.lol.just hittin the button on the shift might not be good and cause it to slip some.but with it not being that big of a shot(150) it should be ok.just keep up on it and service stuff and you'll get good life outta it.

[Outlaw72]

Where I am located, bottle fills are about $32.

Plates and foggers come with adjustable fuel pills and noids. The carb tune should stay the same as the fuel noid and pill provides the needed fuel.