Vortec vs blueprint heads

[Redchevy87]

Hey all, I’m starting to make plans to ditch the smog heads on my 350 for something a little better. I’d like to stay under $1000 for a pair so right now I’m looking at either going with a set of vortecs or the blueprint engines muscle car series heads. I know vortecs are good but I’m leaning towards blueprint because I won’t have to worry about valve lift if I want to get a big cam later and also aluminum would be nice. Does anybody have any experience or suggestions? Thanks

[Rickysnickers]

Not, directly. I bought a Blue Print engine and of course it as their heads on it. I have had no problems with the engine at all. The heads seem nice. They are the AL variety and have a 2.08 intake and I think a 1.60 exhaust. I'm sure that's a little big for the a 350, but just thought I'd share.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

With out having your goals in mind I am going to give a thought approach.

I always buy heads for the intended purpose, and match the cam along the way too. To big a head, and you'll have low speed issues. Even with a torque cam. Especially with a carb due to lower vacuum signal.

The heads you describe are great, but will be a poor decision for a warmed up 350. If your hunting 450+hp NA, and or a forced induction set up. I am sure they will get the job done.

The stock Vortecs are good for a solid 400hp , and up to 450 NA worked over a bit with a cam that won't drive you mad. Of course more can be gotten from them, but after this other heads really out shine them. Vortecs with beehive springs are good for something like 500 lift, and 550 massaged. Which is alot of cam for a street engine. After 550 lift your valve springs are starting to live on borrowed time. Where 525-550 has little effect on a 200000 mile motor.

Desk top dyno helps you see where your combo will live, and to help you make better decisions.

[gmc684x4]

Skogen Dicky sells new vortec heads already machined for larger cam lift

I wish i knew that before i ordered a stock set elsewhere

Comp cams makes a guide cutting tool to reduce bind at the guide seal to spring keeper

Comp cams has a good helpline too for making the setup correct with out valve bind

You can pick them up used to for a good price i have a used set looks all new after hot tanking

You have too look at what you want in the end 400 + hp motor or a really hot more street strip pushing higher hp

An egine built for the drag strip wont like it cruising low and slow

[Warrens69GMC]

Also take a look at summit Vortec heads, made by Dart

[Redchevy87]

Thanks for the input. My end goal is 350-400hp. I just want a good cruiser. Also, I emailed skogen dickey about their modified vortecs a few months ago and was told they weren’t currently available and they couldn’t tell me when they would be.

[bigmac73]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

Also take a look at summit Vortec heads, made by Dart

actually summit heads are a trick flow no name.

I would look at the summit or Jegs house brand
or the NKB (skip white) or proheader import budget heads

if you went vortec then you will have to get a new intake to match the bolt pattern

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

actually summit heads are a trick flow no name.

I would look at the summit or Jegs house brand
or the NKB (skip white) or proheader import budget heads

if you went vortec then you will have to get a new intake to match the bolt pattern

"Heads shipped quickly and appear to be a quality piece, as stated before these are Dart castings. I haven’t run them yet, but they should perform well."

"Great price and value,thick wall casting,screw in studs as well, and made by "DART"

[Redchevy87]

I did look at the summit heads but was a little concerned about the 67cc combustion chambers vs the 64cc in the blueprint and vortec heads. I assume my engine has dished pistons and am thinking i can use every bit of help I can get to bring the compression ratio up a little bit. Thoughts?

[Redchevy87]

I did look at the summit heads but was a little concerned about the 67cc combustion chambers vs the 64cc in the blueprint and vortec heads. I assume my engine has dished pistons and am thinking i can use every bit of help I can get to bring the compression ratio up a little bit. Thoughts?

[gmc684x4]

Can not fully guess what piston style you have is it original rebuild with oe piston or performance aftermatket ones
You also have to keep compression to a streetable gas pump level

[Tom]

3cc isn't going to make much of a difference in compression ratio. My issue would be the chamber design. The appeal of vortecs isn't just the intake port flow, its the combustion chamber efficiancy as well. They don't like more then 32, 34* max. Also why they ran a 9.4:1 compression on them from the factory with 87 octane.

[Redchevy87]

The engine is a stock style rebuild. I’m assuming it has the stock style dish pistons but obviously I won’t know for sure until I pull the heads. I’m hoping to get somewhere in the neighborhood of 9-9.5:1. If I go with the vortec heads, I’m thinking an Edelbrock rpm intake and something like a summit 1103 cam. This will be my first time doing anything like this so please keep throwing out suggestions.

[68Gold/white]

I like the World product iron heads. They cost less than most aluminum heads, and VERY high quality, and WILL give increased performance. I'm wary of higher compression ratios, though.

[biketopia]

Stock vortec heads, LS1/6 factory beehive springs and keepers, Comp 787-16 retainers, fel pro SS72861 valve seals,and a LT4 hot cam with 1.6 rockers and you'll be right at or over your 400hp, and still run on pump gas. No extra machining, no spring bind, all easily and cheaply sourced parts. I ran this combo in my Camaro and had zero issues with it until I ignored a coolant leak and over heated the engine. Plenty of other threads all over the web of people running a LT4 hot cam and vortec's. The hot cam won't have a ton of chop to it, will still produce a good vac signal for brakes and accessories, and has a fuel pump lobe.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by Redchevy87

something like a summit 1103 cam. This will be my first time doing anything like this so please keep throwing out suggestions.

Please don't use that old ass cam design. Anything from a major cam maker in the newer lines will outperform it by a lot. Comp xtreme, lunati voodoo etc.

[Redchevy87]

I’m definitely not set on the summit cam, it just has really good reviews. I’m looking for something that will work with my converter and make decent power and vacuum.

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by biketopia

.....and a LT4 hot cam ... No extra machining, no spring bind, all easily and cheaply sourced parts.....

They make a LT4 Hotcam for the non-roller blocks?

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

They make a LT4 Hotcam for the non-roller blocks?

Totally spaced on that part, I'm sure they make a similar grind but probably a little less aggressive on the ramps if the OP is staying flat tappet.

Where are you located OP??

[Tom]

Originally Posted by Redchevy87

I’m definitely not set on the summit cam, it just has really good reviews. I’m looking for something that will work with my converter and make decent power and vacuum.

Well, its been around probably 40yrs now and yes it does work better then stock no doubt. There are just better grinds out there. An overly simple way to compare is lift for a duration @.050. The old comp magnum with 230*@.050 would give .480" lift. A new grind would be more like .490" lift, which means the ramps are faster acting, which is good.