brake rod ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

turmoline · 03-08-2003, 08:40 PM

I understand that there is a difference in lengths of the rod that goes between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. 67-70 is one length and 71-72 is a different length. Does anybody know the lengths or the difference in lengths of the rods? I've got a 70 and am having a problem getting pressure to the rear disc brakes. I've got a disc to disc master cylinder w/ proportioning valve and am getting pressure to the fronts. I adjusted the rod that I have almost all the way out and kinda came to the conclusion that it might be the rod I dunno. Oh and I also have fluid to the rear calipers. Thanks.

rustyold69 · 03-09-2003, 01:58 PM

im having the same problem with mine except they are drums

turmoline · 03-09-2003, 07:53 PM

Think Maybe I got it worked out. Started from the start and re bench bled the master cylinder. Now I'm able to bleed and get some pressure at the rear discs. Tried to fine tune the pedal and am either getting brake drag or not much pedal. Trying to find a happy medium. Thanks for the reply.

CustomChevy · 03-09-2003, 08:16 PM

also, when you bleed the brakes, start from the rear right wheel and then the other rear. then the right front and last the front left. hope you got it going already!

turmoline · 03-09-2003, 10:50 PM

I bought one of those mightvacs. They said to bleed the cylinder closest to the master cylinder first. I always thought you start from from the furthest one (rear left). In the end I was running in so many circles I think i ended up doing it your way on the rear but visa versa on the front. Go figure. I did all my lines including the flaring so I thought it was me. At first I tried to bench bleed the master cylinder from the cab. Now in retrospect that was a bad idea. Must have not gotten all the air out of the back lines. One thing that is strange though is the brakes won't pump up. I actually have to adjust the rod to get any kind of pedal and it seems to me that as the pads start to wear I will loose my pedal. Maybe I'm wrong I dunno. Thanks for the reply.

hugh e banks · 03-22-2003, 01:00 PM

hey i hope this helps out as ive converted my 1965
to dist .
is the booster unit on the truck the original or is it also for the same year as the disk brake master cylinder you put on it.
the reason i ask is their may be some compatability problems.
take the master cylinder off and look at the back of it where the rod goes into it from the booster unit.
measure the distance the rod sticks out of the booster then measure the depth of the hole in the master cylinder to see
if it goes all the way into it.
not all master cylinders have a deep push rod hole .
usually when the master cylinder is bolted up the last little bit it takes to snug it up pushes the rod into the hole and moves the piston a little not mutch and you can feel it when it does.

1-PU70 · 03-24-2003, 10:45 PM

If your not getting any presure to the rear brakes I would replace the rear flrx line.

turmoline · 03-25-2003, 01:58 AM

The problem ended up by not getting all the air out if the rear of the master cylinder. I was working on a brand new system and ended up setting the calipers in the back and re-bench bleeding the master cylinder. The fluid must have just been going back and forth in the lines cause I could never get any real stream at the caliper. All is well now. Thanks for the replies.

03-08-2003, 08:40 PM	#1
turmoline Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: santa cruz, Calif. U.S. Posts: 166	brake rod ? I understand that there is a difference in lengths of the rod that goes between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. 67-70 is one length and 71-72 is a different length. Does anybody know the lengths or the difference in lengths of the rods? I've got a 70 and am having a problem getting pressure to the rear disc brakes. I've got a disc to disc master cylinder w/ proportioning valve and am getting pressure to the fronts. I adjusted the rod that I have almost all the way out and kinda came to the conclusion that it might be the rod I dunno. Oh and I also have fluid to the rear calipers. Thanks.

03-09-2003, 01:58 PM	#2
rustyold69 student wrench turner Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: wrightstown, wisconsin Posts: 192	im having the same problem with mine except they are drums __________________ 1969 Chevy C-10 with 250 L6 2002 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax with banks six gun

03-22-2003, 01:00 PM	#6
hugh e banks Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: washington state Posts: 11	hey i hope this helps out as ive converted my 1965 to dist . is the booster unit on the truck the original or is it also for the same year as the disk brake master cylinder you put on it. the reason i ask is their may be some compatability problems. take the master cylinder off and look at the back of it where the rod goes into it from the booster unit. measure the distance the rod sticks out of the booster then measure the depth of the hole in the master cylinder to see if it goes all the way into it. not all master cylinders have a deep push rod hole . usually when the master cylinder is bolted up the last little bit it takes to snug it up pushes the rod into the hole and moves the piston a little not mutch and you can feel it when it does. Attached Images __________________ 11 second pickup

03-24-2003, 10:45 PM	#7
1-PU70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 1,036	If your not getting any presure to the rear brakes I would replace the rear flrx line. __________________ 1970 CST/10 402,700R4,3:73 posi,AC,PS,PB,TLT,PW,Buckets with heaters

03-09-2003, 07:53 PM	#3
turmoline Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: santa cruz, Calif. U.S. Posts: 166	Think Maybe I got it worked out. Started from the start and re bench bled the master cylinder. Now I'm able to bleed and get some pressure at the rear discs. Tried to fine tune the pedal and am either getting brake drag or not much pedal. Trying to find a happy medium. Thanks for the reply.

03-09-2003, 08:16 PM	#4
CustomChevy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 462	also, when you bleed the brakes, start from the rear right wheel and then the other rear. then the right front and last the front left. hope you got it going already!

03-09-2003, 10:50 PM	#5
turmoline Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: santa cruz, Calif. U.S. Posts: 166	I bought one of those mightvacs. They said to bleed the cylinder closest to the master cylinder first. I always thought you start from from the furthest one (rear left). In the end I was running in so many circles I think i ended up doing it your way on the rear but visa versa on the front. Go figure. I did all my lines including the flaring so I thought it was me. At first I tried to bench bleed the master cylinder from the cab. Now in retrospect that was a bad idea. Must have not gotten all the air out of the back lines. One thing that is strange though is the brakes won't pump up. I actually have to adjust the rod to get any kind of pedal and it seems to me that as the pads start to wear I will loose my pedal. Maybe I'm wrong I dunno. Thanks for the reply.

03-25-2003, 01:58 AM	#8
turmoline Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: santa cruz, Calif. U.S. Posts: 166	The problem ended up by not getting all the air out if the rear of the master cylinder. I was working on a brand new system and ended up setting the calipers in the back and re-bench bleeding the master cylinder. The fluid must have just been going back and forth in the lines cause I could never get any real stream at the caliper. All is well now. Thanks for the replies.



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