The Brown Truck

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by SFTorange

.............. If you look closely, you can see the vent window rebuild FAQ thread by alansclassics up on my laptop. It was a huge help and easily guided me through the process. Thanks Alan!

Your welcome. Glad I could help. You are making some fantastic progress.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by RoyL

Anybody know what size tubing and fitting to use for oil pressure? My truck has the guage but no tubing from the engine.



Thx. Sorry to highjack this thread but it has a nice picture of the oil line[ in the quote attachment] !

Roy

Originally Posted by SFTorange

I couldn't find the exact size, but most parts houses carry a kit to redo the hard line. You can probably get a kit at the auto parts store, but make sure to get a hard line, not a plastic one.

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/trucks60_72/t60_033.html

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-77-...ctinfo/24-781/

Hey guys, it's 1/8th inch line. You can go to the hardware store and get it in lengths and then pick up the compression fittings. You will need a compression to pipe thread fitting to install in the engine block.

[SFTorange]

I got some work done last night. I finished installing the front steering linkage, and then got to work on rear brake lines. I've been pretty intimidated by the thought of bending new lines, but I read about the hand bendable stuff from Napa and used it in precut lengths. It was pretty easy, but won't win any beauty contests. I was just glad not to have to do any flaring. I managed to get all of the brake lines for the rear finished up. My disc brake kit from Early Classic came with pre-bent lines for the front brakes. Those will be installed when I get my cab installed.




After that I test fit the 350/700r4 combo. I was very pleasantly surprised to discover that my driveline will work with the new transmission without modification. It had already been shortened to accomodate the Turbo 350 I had used previously, which is about 3" shorter than the 700r4. When I had the driveline cut and balanced then, I measured about 1/2" too short so with the Turbo 350 I had a bit more play in the slip yoke than I needed. I am using 67-72 engine perches with the forward holes in the frame which gave me the other 2 1/2" I needed, and everything seems to line up perfectly. I just need to install a new u-joint to attach to the 12 bolt.



Man, I need to wipe the dust off and repaint that driveline!

[SFTorange]

I spent a bunch of time this weekend tying up loose ends on the frame. I finished running the brake lines to all four wheels, chased down a conversion
u-joint to make my driveline compatible with the 12-bolt, cut and installed spark plugs and wires, and installed new 8-inch harmonic balancer. I also realized that I'll need to install longer wheel studs since my new rear brakes are wider than the stock ones.

Here's a picture of the plug wires.

[SFTorange]

I installed my power steering box today. I would have bought the adapter plate from CaptainFab, but I had already bought the complete kit from Don at REZ Engineering in Great Falls. It's nice to support a business here in Montana, plus if I need any parts on short notice, shipping is overnight which is really nice. This is going to be a different truck with a 700r4, 3.73's, power steering and a sway bar!

[Captainfab]

I just noticed in this pic that your brake drums appear to not match up with your backing plates



And you say you need longer wheel studs due to the wider brakes. You should not need longer wheel studs because of the wider brake shoes. The drum should still be tight up against the axle flange. So the original wheel studs will be long enough. It looks and sounds like something is not right with your rear brakes.

[SFTorange]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I just noticed in this pic that your brake drums appear to not match up with your backing plates



And you say you need longer wheel studs due to the wider brakes. You should not need longer wheel studs because of the wider brake shoes. The drum should still be tight up against the axle flange. So the original wheel studs will be long enough. It looks and sounds like something is not right with your rear brakes.

Thanks Captainfab for pointing that out. I looked into the lug studs yesterday, and realized that I did not need to replace mine. I just assumed that with wider brakes I would need longer studs, which I now see was incorrect. I test fit one of my wheels, and it fit fine. I just went out and double checked the brake drum from the picture and it was not fully seated on the axle flange. It looks better now.