Interest for High rise(pre-runner style?) Fenders Fiberglass

[Mordachai]

Hey, I'm not a 4x4 guy, so don't really know what you guys want in regards for tire clearance.
I know some people cut their fenders for more clearance.
I was wondering if anybody would be interested in Fiberglass fenders with a larger wheel opening that other wise appears stock.
I'm thinking of modifying some front fenders(67-72) and making fiberglass parts. I would make them with Fiberglass and a Kevlar option, so they are strong and resistant to rock dings and dents.

I'm thinking of making the opening 3" higher and 6" longer front to back.
Not sure if I would flare them out or keep them stock width.
Of course, they would use all stock mounting points.
I'm estimating that finished fenders would be anywhere from $250-400 per fender depending on opening and flare.
Add $100 roughly for Kevlar reinforcement

Please reply with what you would like to see made for your truck.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Mordachai

Hey, I'm not a 4x4 guy, so don't really know what you guys want in regards for tire clearance.
I know some people cut their fenders for more clearance.
I was wondering if anybody would be interested in Fiberglass fenders with a larger wheel opening that other wise appears stock.
I'm thinking of modifying some front fenders(67-72) and making fiberglass parts. I would make them with Fiberglass and a Kevlar option, so they are strong and resistant to rock dings and dents.

I'm thinking of making the opening 3" higher and 6" longer front to back.
Not sure if I would flare them out or keep them stock width.
Of course, they would use all stock mounting points.
I'm estimating that finished fenders would be anywhere from $250-400 per fender depending on opening and flare.
Add $100 roughly for Kevlar reinforcement

Please reply with what you would like to see made for your truck.

Cool proposition...

The 67-72 fenders will be tough to duplicate having that lip but I hope you can oull it off.

Of course, there goes the inner fenders...

[fun in dirt]

I'd buy a pair, especially if they were around $300 per fender. I've always liked the prerunner look & would rather go the fender route than buying a lift kit so the tires would fit!

[Mordachai]

I think I can pull it off, I'm a moldmaker by trade and have made much more complicated molds than the fender(see avatar). I just am not familiar with 4x4's with bigger tires, or how much articulation they have. I'm trying to find out if vertical clearance or horizontal clearance is more important. I know when I'm looking for obscure or hard to find items I always think if I could just get ___________ ...
I'm trying to find what people who do a lot of offroading would like.

Once I know what size to make, I can fab the part and molds.

vtblazer- do you mean the lip around the headlight/grill, or the lip around the wheel. I think the lip around the wheel is easier, I can just section it with an extra fender. The thing with the lip around the grill is that it changed over the years...
I'm going to design the mold so that front part can be made for the different 'lips'.

Oh, once I have a set of fenders finished, I will be looking for a 4x4 in the area I can 'borrow' to mock up some inner fenders to match. The inner would most likely be made of a flexible plastic,like urethane, ABS, or PE/HDPE

[vtblazer]

Wheel was what I was referring to but I also see what you mean about the changing years.

Don't know if these pics will help but on mine I trimmed 4.5"s all around.
That translates into a total of 9"s wider front/back but only 4.5"s higher.
Doing it that way, it mimics the original shape, granted without the lip but the shape stayed exactly the same.

This amount of clearance barely clears my 42's.

Not many are running 42's or larger on these old trucks and a fender that works for me, isn't going to look 'right' for those on 33's, guess you'll be making different sizes?

[Mordachai]

thanks for those pics that helps alot with clearance questions. it looks like you had to cut of the lower front of the fender too, just below that body line. I'm guessing from the pic of the truck on the concrete, that there's maybe an inch of clearance in that front corner? maybe just a bit more?
Also, roughly how much do the tires sit outside the body?

Sounds like 33's are more common.
Are there even many issues with the stock fenders and 33's with stock suspension parts?
Reason I ask is my tires are 265/60r16 and they are 29". I wouldn't think that 33's would have much clearance problem, maybe they do under full articulation?
Anyone?


Oh guys, please vote in the poll, this thread has had a lot of views and only a few people have put their $o.o2 in the poll.
Thanks
|M|

[dammitmitchell]

arrggh the most common i see is people like me who had to cut to fit 38's and such, they "clear" the inner fenderwell, but the outer well i .... i was not so nice to the outer ha ha ha
so the articulation i have right now will not carth the fender well as much as i thought it would origionally, but i have 6in skyjacker with add a leafs etc, , did you think abou tmaking a year range specific measurign chart or somethign so people can send you their input on their different builds?
im nto a mold maker so i have no clue what you need, what i did before i cut was place my truck "fully articulated" on a cement ramp (loading dock) and see how much of the fender i had to cut off..
oh well ther's my 4 cents have a good night

[71 TopCat]

I am Running 35's on a 3 inch body lift with 6 inch suspension lift on my 71 K5. Doing some good wheeling and turning sharp at the same time, my tires will rub the front and back sharp points on the inside of the fender. That being said I would only need about 2inch on each side = 4inch but I have plenty of clearance at the top. This is great that your looking into doing this, I've always thought of doing something with my fenders but didnt want to lose the clean GM factory line and flare.(you have to admit, the factory look is clean or we probably wouldnt be on this forum) not taking anything away from trucks like vtblazer's. that Blazer looks KILLER/BAD A**, thats just not the look I'm going for on my K5.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Mordachai

thanks for those pics that helps alot with clearance questions. it looks like you had to cut of the lower front of the fender too, just below that body line. I'm guessing from the pic of the truck on the concrete, that there's maybe an inch of clearance in that front corner? maybe just a bit more?
Also, roughly how much do the tires sit outside the body?

Sounds like 33's are more common.
Are there even many issues with the stock fenders and 33's with stock suspension parts?
Reason I ask is my tires are 265/60r16 and they are 29". I wouldn't think that 33's would have much clearance problem, maybe they do under full articulation?
Anyone?

Rule of thumb...generally here:
33's w/stock suspension - road set up
33's w/4" lift - wheeling
35's w/4" lift - road set up
35's w/6" lift - wheeling

Tow other varying factors are the wheel back spacing and no trimming, these fenders have what's known as a 'fang' and yes, it'll catch.

Originally Posted by 71 TopCat

I've always thought of doing something with my fenders but didnt want to lose the clean GM factory line and flare.(you have to admit, the factory look is clean or we probably wouldnt be on this forum) not taking anything away from trucks like vtblazer's. that Blazer looks KILLER/BAD A**, thats just not the look I'm going for on my K5.

Given the option, I would have liked to keep the factory lines also but it simply wasn't possible.
...and hindsight being 20/20 and all, I'm glad I didn't seeing what theses fenders have been put through.

I did make a decent attempt at fab'ing up some but it was impossible to keep the stock geometry of the fender lip and achieve the necessary wheel opening.

[71 TopCat]

I dont think those look to bad and some thing like that cleaned up would look to have enough clearance for my 35's. You can see what little clearance I have now, now imagine while wheelin.

[72blazer_mud_bogger]

i would be interested in some fenders, however i was wondering if you cna add something on the inside of the fender so i can put my own version of wheel wells in

[Mordachai]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

arrggh the most common i see is people like me who had to cut to fit 38's and such, they "clear" the inner fenderwell, but the outer well i .... i was not so nice to the outer ha ha ha
so the articulation i have right now will not carth the fender well as much as i thought it would origionally, but i have 6in skyjacker with add a leafs etc, , did you think abou tmaking a year range specific measurign chart or somethign so people can send you their input on their different builds?
im nto a mold maker so i have no clue what you need, what i did before i cut was place my truck "fully articulated" on a cement ramp (loading dock) and see how much of the fender i had to cut off..
oh well ther's my 4 cents have a good night

I like your idea about making a reference chart. It would help me figure out what sizes would be most popular. It would also benefit the forum, for anybody looking to jack their trucks and put bigger tires, it would serve as great reference.

Originally Posted by 71 TopCat

I am Running 35's on a 2 inch body lift with 4 inch suspension lift on my 71 K5. Doing some good wheeling and turning sharp at the same time, my tires will rub the front and back sharp points on the inside of the fender. That being said I would only need about 2inch on each side = 4inch but I have plenty of clearance at the top.......... vtblazer's. that Blazer looks KILLER/BAD A**....

Yeah, VTBlazers ride is awesome. makes me wish florida wasn't flat(but we do get plenty of mud)

Originally Posted by 71 TopCat

I dont think those look to bad and some thing like that cleaned up would look to have enough clearance for my 35's. You can see what little clearance I have now, now imagine while wheelin.

I can see that there's really not much space.
Those are stock fenders I'm guessing?

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Rule of thumb...generally here:
33's w/stock suspension - road set up
33's w/4" lift - wheeling
35's w/4" lift - road set up
35's w/6" lift - wheeling

Tow other varying factors are the wheel back spacing and no trimming, these fenders have what's known as a 'fang' and yes, it'll catch.

Given the option, I would have liked to keep the factory lines also but it simply wasn't possible.
...and hindsight being 20/20 and all, I'm glad I didn't seeing what theses fenders have been put through.

I did make a decent attempt at fab'ing up some but it was impossible to keep the stock geometry of the fender lip and achieve the necessary wheel opening.

Thanks for the general info, that fender doesn't look too bad at all.
Yeah, I know about the 'fang's as you called them on the inside of the wheel arch. I would make the lip smooth on the inside, I don't think it would be a problem, and that lip adds a good amount of strength to the whole fender.

Originally Posted by 72blazer_mud_bogger

i would be interested in some fenders, however i was wondering if you cna add something on the inside of the fender so i can put my own version of wheel wells in

Yeah the inner lip of the fender would be smooth, but there, allowing plenty of space to mount a modified inner fender.
I'll go grab a pic for an example.

[71 TopCat]

I can see that there's really not much space.
Those are stock fenders I'm guessing?


Yes they are stock fenders. I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[Mordachai]

here's some pics. Yeah it's super dirty, been sitting on the ground for about 10 months with no washing.

These are from my front end. Same arch though, just a factory size
you can see I retained the 'beauty line' on the lower edge of the wheel well lip. Alot of repop parts don't have that line...


here's a pic of the passenger side, looking back.
you can see the lip I made that goes in, with none of the 'fangs'.
That lip was trimmed about 1/4" off in this picture. It is about 1/2" deep from the inside of the beauty line.


the bigger that inside lip is, the more strength the panel will have.
I think I will make that lip about 1" deep, and if needed it could be trimmed back to suit the specific install.
Having a 1" lip there would be a great place to install inner wells.
I'm thinking inners like on modern trucks, a strong flexible plastic.
But Fenders first, inners down the road if there's enough interest in fenders

[Prerunner1982]

I think a large wheel arch without the bulge is a good idea. It would make for a much cleaner look but give the clearance needed. I think perhaps 2 levels might be needed. Perhaps a wheel arch that is 2" or 3" bigger for the stock (or small lifted) guys only running 33" and wanting 35". And then a fender with a 5-6" larger arch for the guys wanting 40"s. I believe the small arch would be preferred.

I am not a 67-72 guy, mainly 73-87... a 73-87 2wd (no lift) with a fiberglass flared fender (3" bulge and 2-3" larger wheel arch) could fit 35" tires.

Without the bulge I believe only 33"s may have been possible. Just my $0.02.

[jaros44sr]

Cool thread, hope it works out because I'm interested in a set for 35's. In the future would ya be addressing the rear fenders

I didn't vote because I don't know what size I need

Nice idea on the front lip,lets ya run '67-'72. I'll wait to buy new fenders till I hear whatcha doin'

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

And then a fender with a 5-6" larger arch for the guys wanting 40"s. I believe the small arch would be preferred.

Anything larger than a 4.5" enlargement will take out the side-markers.
I agree with the two size ranges though for sure.

So when do the low profile/cowl induction hoods come out?

[dinotruck68]

hmmm.
im pretty down for a fiberglass hood to

[72blazer_mud_bogger]

since we are getting off the subject can you make the half doors for a 72 blazer

[Mordachai]

I've gotten some great feedback so far. Thanks everyone.

It looks like I'll be making two sizes, one for 33"-35" range, and another for 38"-44" range. I'm sure there will be some overlap with size and Backspacing of tires and the lift set up your truck has.
I will make the smaller size first, as it seems it would be the more popular size, and I think chevy's outnumber GMC's too.


I should be able to make them for all year ranges of the 67-72, but the differences are a little confusing. the 67-68 chevy and 67-72 GMC style being the same , and then 69-72 chevy are the same. That is if I have the design differences for the years right, but I'm not sure. Only thing I know for sure is the 67 had no marker light...


As for hoods, well there's already a number of companies making them, and until the fenders start to pay back the investment for the molds, I'll only be thinking of fenders! lol.
Although I do have a mainly rust free, but straight 71 hood in the barn already...

And for doors, or blazer half doors rather, there are also companies making glass doors, both half doors and full doors which could be cut down. Door molds are even more complex than fender or hoods, so also, those will sit on the back burner in the side house in the back of the property so to speak.
While off topic, first thing I would prolly try to make for a blazer is a top, and probably the half cab with bulkhead style top.

Back on topic, I will wait another week or so for some more feedback, but I'm already getting a good idea. Then I'll start to open the fenders I have, and make molds. Once they molds are made they will take 7-10 days to fully cure (to minimize shrink and warp) then they can be pulled and cleaned/prepped for parts. Roughly 3 weeks after the molds are complete, I should be able to pull parts out as needed for years to come. I plan to have them available mid to late September. I'm already looking into how to ship these suckers too.

I've spent the last 3 days making a base to raise the old 50's Chicago windmill we have here(getting too old for that kind of work), and then I have a full load of large rocks being delivered to my house(for landscaping),all while I'm fixing/finishing a major garage repair/clean-up. I'm going to have an awesome project to break in our partially new garage!

I have a few members that are going to be my testers for the first parts, to help me in knowing if there's any tweaks needing to be made for mounting or fit.
Looks like I'm going to become a board vendor too! Woot Woot!

[sandking]

If you could duplicate these, but for a '72 style, I would be all over it. The guy building these for the '67-'68 charges $350 for the pair (fiberglass), but I want the '72 style. I think these have a 3.5" flare, not sure about the opening. Of corse, I am only refering to the front, not the rear.

[sailed2japan]

That's another avenue you may want to explore....bedsides...Personaly, I LOVE the hourglass figure of a truck with a flaired bed and fenders, just my $.02

[Mordachai]

Sandking, thanks for the pics of those, I've never seen them before.
It looks like they are maybe bolted on top of some cut out factory fenders, I'm guessing because of the bolt holes you can see in the fenders. Either that or they fabbed a mounting structure underneath.
Also those body lines on the front kind of match, but the profile of the lip does not.
It doesn't have the inner/reverse curve on top of the lip, nor does it have the beauty line towards the bottom of the lip.

I do like the transition from the lip to the grill, I've already thought about doing something like that for anyone running super-swampers etc.

I'm not knocking that fender design, molding composite materials isn't easy.
But I want my parts to be as close to factory as possible, including every little detail.

|M|

[sandking]

They are mounted with dzues fasteners. They have a welded on backing plate to a tube structure. I agree about the fine details, but for something that is probably going to get messed up, I would be ok with it. I do like your idea of detail, but unless the truck is a street/trailer queen, you might be spending more time then its worth to fine tune these. I know you said you do this for a living, but time cost money. I am just speculating here, no harm intended. I say go for it!!

[71 TopCat]

Originally Posted by Mordachai

I'm not knocking that fender design, molding composite materials isn't easy.
But I want my parts to be as close to factory as possible, including every little detail.

|M|

I definitely agree with you Mordachi. Thats exactly what I'm looking for on my K5. Just have to remember fellas, that Mordachai is doing the hard part of designing and manufacturing the fenders. Once hes done that, bolt some on and lets go out wheelin hard! Why not? its only fiberglass to repair, (most auto parts stores will have what it takes to repair) repair today and repaint tomorrow worst case.... and your still looking good with all that clean GM detail. IM IN !