A quick look at the Hickey worm gear winch

[BLT gmc]

Jeff, this looks great. I'm very impressed. Bruce
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[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by BLT gmc

Jeff, this looks great. I'm very impressed. Bruce
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Bruce!
It's been a fun project. Now I just need a lever extension and skid plate and it will be a wrap!

I will post pics of the lever extension that came with the winch. Now that the winch is actually installed you can see how the last owner had it setup!

I plan to make one that comes out in front of the grill.

[dazza]

nice job! a jigsaw? really? I had visions of a torch. Good to know.

[jeffahart]

Original winch owner used this piping with a small offset and a set screw. It was accessed by popping the hood and reaching between the grill and radiator. He my not have had air because it comes pretty close to my condenser. But I would rather not pop the hood to operate the winch anyhow.

This morning I did a mock up of a flat bar extension to come up through the bumper right in front of the grill. It has a lot of holes for mock up. It bolts to the clutch handle and snakes through the bumper in front of the grill. I had to jockey it around a bit to get it were I wanted, so I bolted the joint at first to get the angle correct and height on mounting on clutch handle, then I welded the joint. Guess I never took pics of it coming through the bumper in front of the grill. Now that I have it mocked up I can cut, bend and weld a clean one. Then I'll post some installed pics.

Original owners clutch handle extension


Clutch handle extension coming between grill and condenser.


My flat bar extension side view. More offset to come out through bumper.


Front view of flat bar extension.

[jeffahart]

Finished making a hasp plate for the extended handle a few days ago, finally installed it today.

About the extended handle and hasp plate. I decided that I did not like the idea of someone being able to walk by and maybe slap the clutch lever and set the spool into free. Although I keep a bit of tension on my cable, and it is hard to move the handle, I am a bit cautious. With a short 6" handle you probably need to pull pretty hard to get it into free with out letting up tension on the line. But now my handle is probably close to a foot or maybe 10 inches longer, much more leverage. So I drilled a hole in the handle where it protrudes from the bumper; and made a hasp plate with a corresponding hole. Put on a 5/6" hitch pin to keep it locked down.

The extended handle works great! Here's the results.

Hasp plate masked for lettering and final black coat.


Hitch Pin


Installed with hitch pin. There is 1/4" between the handle and the hasp, they never touch. The handle does not rattle around at all.


The setup works great.

[dazza]

Nice one, you think maybe a lock would be better so nobody will play with it?
From free to lock, approx. how many degrees? 12 or so?

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by dazza

Nice one, you think maybe a lock would be better so nobody will play with it?
From free to lock, approx. how many degrees? 12 or so?

I would guess less than 10 maybe 8. You don't have to move it very far to slap the dog to clutch. But if you're needing to know I can put an angle finder on it for you and let you know the exact movement.

Thought about a small lock, but if someone really wants to take the time to remove the hitch pin and mess with it.... then I probably got bigger problems. Plus I lose keys; and I like the convenience of everything accessible up front and ready for service, kind of a no frills deal.... just business.

[jeffahart]

Calling this project done for now. It'll be awhile before I get around to making a skid plate or custom bumper. Though I have decided on an aux battery setup in the near future. I didn't mind cutting my bumper, taking a serious look at it I decided I need an new one.

Before and after pics.

[BLT gmc]

Nicely done, really looks great. How do you post pics here? I use your thread as inspiration to start my worm drive rebuild. Bruce
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[jeffahart]

Thanks Bruce, I really love the winch!

Posting pics is a two part deal.
1) Go to manage attachments below your post, before you submit the post,and browse for the image and click upload.
2) After the image is uploaded go to the paper clip in the tool bar and select the image to get the tag of the image to show in the text you are typing. This way you can write something above or below the image, by typing above or below the image tag.

If you only do step 1 your pics will be lumped together.

[wazzabie]

nice write up. i have a worm drive winch. the clutch handle is stuck and i can't move it to free. what do you think is wrong?

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by wazzabie

nice write up. i have a worm drive winch. the clutch handle is stuck and i can't move it to free. what do you think is wrong?

Either the handle shaft or dog are rusted. But everything on the handle side of the case gets rusted. You just need to pull that end of the case off, wire brush it and grease it up. That is most likely the problem. When I first ran mine to test the motor, before disassembly, it kept popping out of gear. And that's because it never fully engaged due to rust. The iron is so heavy that the rust should just wire brush off!

[wazzabie]

Why do you not like the mounts?

Originally Posted by jeffahart

I finally had some time to take a good look at the Hickey Enterprises worm drive that's been relegated to the corner of my garage since my folks dropped it off on Thanksgiving weekend. Been busy! I hooked the motor to a battery and it winds both directions, nice and strong motor, but it pops out of gear easily though... not sure what's up with that.

I will drain oils and clean it up; then if it seems fit for duty, I will begin the bumper build.

Any how, here's some pics and my thoughts. Any input is welcome, especially if you have some hands on with one.

I initially was going to pick up a hydraulic winch, I like them. Then this came up and I jumped on it. I like it because it's period correct.

I weighed it, it dresses out at 120lbs with cable mount iron and oil, not bad!
Attachment 1500048

The original mounting flat iron on front and rear angle iron is 5/16 and I don't dig that huge chop around the case on the flat iron.
Attachment 1500049

The angle iron is cut at both mounting ends, I don't really dig that either.
Attachment 1500050

Looks like you can rotate the gearbox plate, so plug can be worm down or worm up mount. They have it setup for worm on top. I will keep it that way.
It looks like any way you mount it is OK, worm up, worm down, over drum pull, under drum pull.
Attachment 1500053

See the other side the Hickey Enterprises verbiage is upside down!
Attachment 1500055

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by wazzabie

Why do you not like the mounts?

I was critical of the mounts on my first visual inspection because of the notch. That was just my first thoughts really. But the mount iron is 5/16(darn thick!). So I'm guessing they accounted for the notching with the thicker iron. I'm guessing some other things will bend before the mounts. No longer an issue for me.

I will be leaving the winch mounted as is.

[jeffahart]

Got rid of the roller fairlead and replaced with a steel hawse. Painted everything black and did some painting on the grill. Working on second battery now.



j

[snj8198]

that's a nice option that keeps the stock pumper. grats!

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Got rid of the roller fairlead and replaced with a steel hawse. Painted everything black and did some painting on the grill. Working on second battery now.

Attachment 1700243

j

That IS very nice! Good job.

[Orange Crate]

jeffahart and dazza,
Thanks for the great pictures and install/rebuild info. I might be the proud owner of one of these by the end of the week. I paid by Paypal and have tracking numbers but sometimes you just never know about interweb purchases.....If I need to go through it when it arrives I'll be using your guidance here for sure so thanks again.

jeffahart, I like the clean look of the hawse fairlead, I'll be using the same set up on my bumper that just got delivered last week. Here is what it is going on. I have tow hooks so I'll be skipping the shackles.

[jeffahart]

One of the things you can do with a steel hawse is stick your finger around a ball or u-joint and finger scrape a bit of excess grease; and then swab the hawse hole before you run line. Helps a bit, especially if you have a used hawse with a bit of rust.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

jeffahart and dazza,
Thanks for the great pictures and install/rebuild info. I might be the proud owner of one of these by the end of the week. I paid by Paypal and have tracking numbers but sometimes you just never know about interweb purchases.....If I need to go through it when it arrives I'll be using your guidance here for sure so thanks again.

jeffahart, I like the clean look of the hawse fairlead, I'll be using the same set up on my bumper that just got delivered last week. Here is what it is going on. I have tow hooks so I'll be skipping the shackles.

Nice, post some pics if you can... no two installs go the same!

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

New gear came in the mail today. Good news on the gear, it has a seal installed on the inner bore. So, disregard my verbiage in post #50 where I say there is no seal on inner gear bore to shaft. I was happy to find I was wrong. No good specs on the gear when I bought it.

When I got the gear it became apparent what to do, though you do have two choices.

1) Surface collar of new gear down to same length as original gear and use old style small shaft seal only.

2) Bore the case to accommodate the new bigger size seal.

I ran the case down to the machine shop this evening and had the case milled to 1.745 (just shy of 1 3/4". The new seal is hard rubber and not metal cased, so I opted for a bit tighter tolerance.

So now I will order the Western Motors 8933 motor.

The gear is Pierce Sales Motor Drive Gear (PS654)
seal is motor seal (PS654)
and woodruff key (PS654)

So the cost to get off the old 10 spline motor:= $30 for the new gear and $30 for the case milling. Plus some change for the seal and woof woof key.

So about $140 to upgrade off the 10 spline. So the price of the 8933 is $83(free shipping) plus the $60 for gear and mill work. Try to buy a 10 spline for that!

Here's some pics.

New and Old gears.
Attachment 1508407

New gear had shaft seal installed already.
Attachment 1508408

New and old gears with seals. The old gear is shorter and stops at the transfer so the seal is same diameter as the gear. The new gear is longer and has a fatter collar the runs through the case.
Attachment 1508414

Case milled for new bigger seal.
Attachment 1508415

Inside view with big seal and new gear.
Attachment 1508417

By converting to the larger diameter seal and gear that matches, it allows the removal of the motor to replace the seal and NOT have to remove the drive gear (to replace seals) as you did with the old small gear and small diameter seals (seals were installed behind the drive gear). I am sure with the smooth shaft and woodruff key it will be easier to remove the gear if you have to but, it would not be mandatory to remove the drive gear when the seal needs to be replaced.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

By converting to the larger diameter seal and gear that matches, it allows the removal of the motor to replace the seal and NOT have to remove the drive gear (to replace seals) as you did with the old small gear and small diameter seals (seals were installed behind the drive gear). I am sure with the smooth shaft and woodruff key it will be easier to remove the gear if you have to but, it would not be mandatory to remove the drive gear when the seal needs to be replaced.

Salient point Orange Crate! Are you are still traumatized from pulling that gear? I am! Worried you might have to do it again?

Anyhow, if you have access to a machine shop, and if you have to replace the motor, I would get the large collar gear and seal kit and give it a good look over. I didn't want to pay to have my motor fixed, and the only new one I found was north of $300 (a kings ransom for a simple motor like this). So I went with the cheap maintainable route. I'm not calling my decision good or bad, just my decision when I was at the motor/gear crossroad! In the end I got the 10 spline motor working, go figure! I gave it to Bruce. You can have my old gear if you want it, pretty sure I still have it. Might be in a bit better shape than yours, not sure. I can dig it up an photo if your interested.

j

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Salient point Orange Crate! Are you are still traumatized from pulling that gear? I am! Worried you might have to do it again?

Anyhow, if you have access to a machine shop, and if you have to replace the motor, I would get the large collar gear and seal kit and give it a good look over. I didn't want to pay to have my motor fixed, and the only new one I found was north of $300 (a kings ransom for a simple motor like this). So I went with the cheap maintainable route. I'm not calling my decision good or bad, just my decision when I was at the motor/gear crossroad! In the end I got the 10 spline motor working, go figure! I gave it to Bruce. You can have my old gear if you want it, pretty sure I still have it. Might be in a bit better shape than yours, not sure. I can dig it up an photo if your interested.

j

Yes, still recovering from that gear work. I do have access to a very decent machine shop and will be going the same route that you took. It will be easier to get parts and maintain after converting to the newer gear and seal. I don't know anyone who would say "I won't need to maintain that" although most winches probably don't see much action. The winch I have was covered in silicone sealant and that seal in particular was covered in it, so I know it was leaking and the previous owner obviously attempted to cure the issue but couldn't get that drive gear off. I just got back from my business trip so looking forward to some quality time with the winch and bead blaster. More pictures of the Hickey winch to follow...how kool is that going to be? Who doesn't want more pictures of Hickey winches...?

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

Yes, still recovering from that gear work. I do have access to a very decent machine shop and will be going the same route that you took. It will be easier to get parts and maintain after converting to the newer gear and seal. I don't know anyone who would say "I won't need to maintain that" although most winches probably don't see much action. The winch I have was covered in silicone sealant and that seal in particular was covered in it, so I know it was leaking and the previous owner obviously attempted to cure the issue but couldn't get that drive gear off. I just got back from my business trip so looking forward to some quality time with the winch and bead blaster. More pictures of the Hickey winch to follow...how kool is that going to be? Who doesn't want more pictures of Hickey winches...?

I figure if I have to swap my motor I will pull the winch and probably open the transfer case; but it will be nice to not have to pull the gear. I'm now looking forward to the hex nut stripping out after it freezes!

But my main point I wanted to make besides being a smart A$$. Regarding leaking transfer seals, if they do leak and you went with the old setup... I think these transfers are a perfect candidate for corn head grease. If you've never herd of the John Deere Corn Head grease check it out. In a nutshell, it's grease until it get's warmed up by the gears, then it becomes an oil. Then thickens again when it cools. It won't leak. These things aren't like transmissions or rear ends, they run short bursts at low speed. So a maintenance free lubricant is tempting. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in the main housing with the worm and bronze gear either.

I considered filling mine with corn head grease. When I put the oil in I wondered if I would ever change it, not likely. So, I considered a fire and forget lubricant like the corn head grease. But I put oil in for the bench test and it's stayed that way so far.

I run the winch line out about five feet every time I wash the truck, just to keep oil spun up in the top. If I used the corn head grease, it would stick a bit better up high and I could probably go quite a while without running the winch.

Just another two cents!

Oh and yes... Pics Pics Pics... we love pictures of winches!

j

[Orange Crate]

Hhmmm, corn head grease, that's a new one for me. Let everyone know how that turns out. I do have a question about how you mounted yours. I mocked mine up (no guts inside it just the end cases and mount bars). When I put the unit up to the frame the mount bars hit the leaf spring shackles. Specifically they hit the mounting rivets of shackle. I doesn't matter if I move the winch slightly back or more forward, it will hit either way. Also if I do move the whole unit more forward I run out of frame to drill any new holes (the holes would be too close to the frame edge). Do you have any close up pics of your mounts, maybe from the bottom? Did you have to use any shims to get it to work?