73+ Booster on older trucks

[dave2953]

I have the booster/master cylinder from a 79 and I'm wanting to use it on my 68 to convert to power brakes. Do I need brackets from a 67-72 booster to make it work? I searched for old posts but couldn't find anyone that used a 73-87 booster, just 67-72's. Thanks for your help.

[Aarons72s]

You use the 73-87 brackets. There are a few people that have used them on there trucks. Wait around and one of them will tell you everything you need to know. Check and maybe bump your thread through the weekend and I bet you will get the rest of the info you need.
Aaron

[Brad]

Just use the brackets that are mounted on the booster. You'll need to cut part of the bracket away to make it fit flush up against the firewall, also you'll need to extend the rod that goes from the pedal to the booster but other than those things this is a bolt on deal.

Take a look at mine below to see the area that I've cut away. Also look at how I extended the rod using a coupler. This works great if you don't have a welder.

[C10-Driver]

I am running a newer style booster on my truck and it works great. As Brad said you have to trim the bottom corner to clear the steering column mounts on the firewall and extend the rod. I also had to drill the upper mounting holes in the booster bracket.

I went a step further this winter and trimmed off the top of the bracket because I didn't like the way it stuck up above the booster.






The only drawback is that the brake pedal in our manual brake trucks is a "long throw" (not sure of the correct term). In a newer vehicle, you only have to touch the pedal to feel the brakes grab whereas with our stock pedals, it has to move a fair distance. Once you get past that first 1/4 of the pedal movement though, the truck stops great.

Good Luck.

[dave2953]

Originally Posted by Brad

Just use the brackets that are mounted on the booster. You'll need to cut part of the bracket away to make it fit flush up against the firewall, also you'll need to extend the rod that goes from the pedal to the booster but other than those things this is a bolt on deal.

Take a look at mine below to see the area that I've cut away. Also look at how I extended the rod using a coupler. This works great if you don't have a welder.

This is probably a dumb question, but where did you get the coupler?

[Brad]

It's called a coupler nut. Just go to a well equiped local hardware store. It'll be in the nuts & bolts section. You'll also need to get about 1" of threaded rod to screw in the other end so that the pedal end of the rod can screw on to the coupler.

[dave2953]

Thank you all for your help; I really appreciate it.

Dave

[C10-Driver]

Glad to help...

I had a personal message and question from a board member about the proportioning valve on my truck. I couldn't figure out how to post a picture in a personal message so here goes...


I didn't really care for the "factory" position for the proportioning valve so I built a bracket and mounted it on the inner fender below the master cylinder.




In the newer trucks (73-87) it is mounted on the forward cross member right out of the way which I think I will do next to get it right out of the engine compartment.

...