LS conversion alternator wiring question

[VetteVet]

[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 2002208[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Originally Posted by chev-obsession

VetteVet,

The black wire with fusible link in your diagram, is that the factory wire that connects to the junction block on + battery terminal and feeds the ammeter?

Because the way I read the factory service manual wiring diagram, the black wire feeds the ammeter and brown wire comes out of the ammeter and goes to the alternator?

_________________________________________________________________
Yes the black on the top feeds the ammeter via the dash plug at the 12 terminal and the lower one shown as white feeds the ammeter on the other terminal via the dash plug at no. 1 terminal. They both have inline fuses (4 amp) and they are both positive polarity.

The brown wire goes to the firewall block then to the ignition switch for key on power and connects with the accessory terminal 12 gauge brown wire shown below. The brown wire feeds the fuse panel key on side, heater switch, wiper switch, turn switch, etc.







NOTE: the brown wire to the firewall block converts to a 22 gauge brown/yellow stripe resistance wire (10 ohms) for the alternator exciter and it mirrors the charging light wire in the idiot light dashes. The factory used it as a backup in case the charging light bulb fails. They used it solely, in the case of the gauge dashes which you have.

You already know this but the viewers may not . the brown wire to the firewall plug originally went to the externally voltage regulator and continued on to the alternator as the white wire. the blue wire with it continued from the EVR to the alternator and served as the voltage sensor for the EVR and the field voltage for the alternator. What we are doing is merely using the brown wire as the exciter and the red wire to the alternator as the sensor/field strength wire for the alternator.

[chev-obsession]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 2002208[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
_________________________________________________________________
Yes the black on the top feeds the ammeter via the dash plug at the 12 terminal and the lower one shown as white feeds the ammeter on the other terminal via the dash plug at no. 1 terminal. They both have inline fuses (4 amp) and they are both positive polarity.

The brown wire goes to the firewall block then to the ignition switch for key on power and connects with the accessory terminal 12 gauge brown wire shown below. The brown wire feeds the fuse panel key on side, heater switch, wiper switch, turn switch, etc.

Attachment 2002202



Attachment 2002206

NOTE: the brown wire to the firewall block converts to a 22 gauge brown/yellow stripe resistance wire (10 ohms) for the alternator exciter and it mirrors the charging light wire in the idiot light dashes. The factory used it as a backup in case the charging light bulb fails. They used it solely, in the case of the gauge dashes which you have.

You already know this but the viewers may not . the brown wire to the firewall plug originally went to the externally voltage regulator and continued on to the alternator as the white wire. the blue wire with it continued from the EVR to the alternator and served as the voltage sensor for the EVR and the field voltage for the alternator. What we are doing is merely using the brown wire as the exciter and the red wire to the alternator as the sensor/field strength wire for the alternator.


Attachment 2002201


Attachment 2002209

Ok this is starting to make sense. Ive been working on the wiring in depth now. A couple things I’m stumped on....

1) The alternator I have is a 160 amp output and only has a 2 pin plug on the back, unlike the 4 pin style I wasn’t able to find any adapter harness with a built in resistor. I’m sure someone has used this alternator in our trucks. I don’t see a way to add the brown wire with a resistor. That being said, what do I do with the brown wire?

2) Right now I have the brown wire clipped off from the EVR (until I find its final home) also have the gauge cluster removed. The headlights, And blower motor come on when I connect the factory red wire to the junction block. Why is this happening?

3) I used ls1nova’s electric speedometer kit, so I got rid of the circuit board on the gauge cluster. I also added a voltmeter and clock. I am wanting to terminate the black ammeter wires completely. Also removed the brake and temp warning lights in the speedometer. Am I ok to leave the wire that connects to the proportion valve. Or terminate it?

Any help is appreciated