Please recommend a replacement radiator - 69 c10 i6 250

[Luke87gt]

Hi all, would you please help to recommend a replacement radiator for my truck?

I don’t remember replacement radiators being as expensive as I see on RockAuto today ($300ish)?

Drop in replacement would be great, thanks

['68OrangeSunshine]

Since they don't make the slimmer radiator for L6s anymore, you're going to have to buy one for a small block V8. and move the radiator bracket further out on the passenger side to accomodate it.
A three tier should work well in California. If you have a Manual Transmission, you don't have to run tranny cooiing lines into the radiator, but it may come plumbed for it.
Copper/Brass is the OEM type, and is preferred.
The Aftermarket has decided that Everyone wants an SBC radiator whether they know it or not.

[Unless you have an old school Radiator Shop in town, and they can re-build your old one.]

[Steeveedee]

I recall that you mentioned going to a V-8 some time in the future. If that is a real goal, moving the mounts and going with at least a 3-row radiator as mentioned would be my recommendation.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I recall that you mentioned going to a V-8 some time in the future. If that is a real goal, moving the mounts and going with at least a 3-row radiator as mentioned would be my recommendation.

Hi Steve, thats exactly my thought. However, what are the details related to moving the mounts?

Would the i6 mounts be modified or do I need new v8 mounts?

[Jim Boy]

I had mine re-cored to original. I can't remember the cost but there would be no sense stating the price as the two countries are miles apart when it comes to dollars. I didn't have to worry about the fitment. Good luck.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Hi Steve, thats exactly my thought. However, what are the details related to moving the mounts?

Would the i6 mounts be modified or do I need new v8 mounts?

Hopefully someone here who has done this will weigh in. I've never done this conversion.

[NGN]

My 67 was originally a six with the original radiator, not sure now if it was a single or double core. I was lucky to find a four core out of a 71- 72 Suburban V8 AC Auto and for thirty five bucks, another seventy five two have it check out and clean. At that time back then I made the switch cause I went from a three speed manual too a Turbo 350 auto hooked up too my original 250 six cylinder. Fit in good like original from factory, had to bend out lower radiator support, slight modification to lower retainer mount area for use with a four row radiator. There is two locations for radiator mounting. Two things I don't recall, one being if I used the same mounts as the original six cylinder radiator mounts, two if I went shroud less cause the original six cylinder shroud, that little metal top finger saver, didn't fit. The V8 shroud didn't fit , the four blade fan on the six cylinder just rubbed a bit on one side and that could be cause the location of the replaced four core. There is a full shroud on my friends 68 six cylinder with a automatic I believe rare, but now that I recall we were thinking time later on that maybe six cylinder motor along with fan sit a bit over to one side. I now have a V8 327 with the same trans and radiator using a V8 shroud, just had to shorten up the drive shaft a little.
OK I'm rambling but I'd go with a four core auto trans AC radiator to cover any future changes.
LMC has a price for a four row with AC 350 motor 1972 at $399.95 does not mention automatic hook up.for the tran cooling lines.
NGN
Nick

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Hopefully someone here who has done this will weigh in. I've never done this conversion.

It just so happens that I replaced my L6 radiator with a 3 core stock radiator as I'm putting in a 350 shortly.

Op, it's SUPER EASY!! Find yourself a stock 3 core and all you have to do is move the upper and lower rad supports on the passenger side over. The bolt holes are all there and predrilled/threaded, it's like Lego. No mods AT ALL!

[Steeveedee]

^ That was easy!

[RichardJ]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

It just so happens that I replaced my L6 radiator with a 3 core stock radiator as I'm putting in a 350 shortly.

Op, it's SUPER EASY!! Find yourself a stock 3 core and all you have to do is move the upper and lower rad supports on the passenger side over. The bolt holes are all there and predrilled/threaded, it's like Lego. No mods AT ALL!

Super easy if the radiator end tanks are the same thickness. If you have to replace the rubber pads with the longer rubber, then the longer lower retainers are easy to replace. I had to bend a lip on the core support to fit the lower retainers. I got the lower retainers from a wrecked truck, but cut my upper retainers and welded in a short extension.

Additional info in this very similar thread.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...83#post9296583

[Luke87gt]

Sounds great

Any recommendations for source?

Thanks

[bnorth]

I put this one in last summer and it is working excellent for my 292 on days as hot as 90*. I pulled off the shroud and electric fans and just run the mechanical fan.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Sounds great

Any recommendations for source?

Thanks

I was referring to installing a factory GM 3 core radiator vs my tiny skinny stock L6 one. Found one used, had it pressure tested and cleaned then installed

['68OrangeSunshine]

If you have, or can find a Harrison Radiator, get it re-tanked, or re-cored. That was GM's house brand.
Better quality than new copper/brass radiators out of Thailand.

[Steeveedee]

Not that you will need something this big, but I have a 2-row Cold Case aluminum radiator. It will handle up to 500 Cu In engines. Fits directly into the 4-row radiator mounts.

[MikeB]

I bought a Murray aluminum radiator for an 82 C10 that I used to own. At the time it was around $130 at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts and had a lifetime warranty. It looked very much like the new car radiators with nylon tanks.

My engine was a mild 350 with a TH350 trans, but no A/C. Even though the rad was listed as being for a 250-six and 305, it worked just fine for five Texas summers. On very hot days, my Autometer gauge showed around 180-190 on the highway, and 200 or a little more around town.

Oh yeah, the truck also had a 360 degree factory-type shroud and clutch fan, which probably helped tremendously.