Proper Way To Cut Copper Oil Line

[1972BlueC20]

I need to cut my copper oil line under the dash so I can install another fitting on the line to temporarily hook up another pressure gauge to verify my oil pressure.

What is the correct way to cut the copper oil line without pinching it off which would restrict the flow.

I tried just pulling off the little ferrule crush sleeve thing in front on the current fitting so I could slide the fitting off and then put it back to the old fitting later but I can't get it to budge even when tugging on it lightly with pliers.

My aftermarket temporary oil gauge requires another fitting than what it used to hook up to an original cluster oil gauge. I tried to find an adapter to convert the current fitting to what I need but can't find one.

Any help is appreciated

[geezer#99]

Tubing cutter like this.
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/Lenox-.../len-21009.htm
Home depot or other hardware stores have them.

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Tubing cutter like this.
http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/Lenox-.../len-21009.htm
Home depot or other hardware stores have them.

You the man!!!

Will go buy one tomorrow!

[LockDoc]

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I use an X-Acto hobby saw with a fine blade to cut the tubing. The fitting you need for the back of your gauge is called a "Compression Sleeve Nut". I have a few of them for 1/8" tubing if you can't find one.

LockDoc

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I use an X-Acto hobby saw with a fine blade to cut the tubing. The fitting you need for the back of your gauge is called a "Compression Sleeve Nut". I have a few of them for 1/8" tubing if you can't find one.

LockDoc

Nice that's another option to.

Thx so much for the offer on the fitting.

I have the correct fitting already on the line to hook into my gauge cluster (original reproduction oil gauge) but I need a different fitting to hook the line into my aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge. I was hoping there was an adapter to convert the factory fitting into the fitting I need to prevent the need to cut the copper line but I can't seem to find one anywhere.

Whatever I do, I never want to un hook the line at the rear of the engine. That was a pain in the rear getting that line hooked up. I am still all scratched up and bruised from my arm hitting the brake booster while wrenching on the old oil sending unit first to remove it, then installing the copper line in its place. It's a very tight area at the back of my engine due to having HEI which is a bigger distributor and the kick down cable bracket and all the wires for my tach and 12v power source Ect

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Nice that's another option to.

Thx so much for the offer on the fitting.

I have the correct fitting already on the line to hook into my gauge cluster (original reproduction oil gauge) but I need a different fitting to hook the line into my aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge. I was hoping there was an adapter to convert the factory fitting into the fitting I need to prevent the need to cut the copper line but I can't seem to find one anywhere.

Whatever I do, I never want to un hook the line at the rear of the engine. That was a pain in the rear getting that line hooked up. I am still all scratched up and bruised from my arm hitting the brake booster while wrenching on the old oil sending unit first to remove it, then installing the copper line in its place. It's a very tight area at the back of my engine due to having HEI which is a bigger distributor and the kick down cable bracket and all the wires for my tach and 12v power source Ect

Do you know what fitting you need to connect the line to the aftermarket gauge? I have a fitting that the original gauge line will screw into and it has 1/8" pipe threads (NPT) on the other end.....

LockDoc

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Do you know what fitting you need to connect the line to the aftermarket gauge? I have a fitting that the original gauge line will screw into and it has 1/8" pipe threads (NPT) on the other end.....

LockDoc

The first pic is of the fitting that is on the line now that goes into the back of the gauge cluster.

The 2nd picture is of the type fittings I need to screw onto my aftermarket oil gauge. They are both male fittings, so I'd almost need an open ended pass through piece that is female on both sides with threads all the way through the middle. Not sure if the diameter would be the same on each side though.

[1972BlueC20]

2nd pic

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

The first pic is of the fitting that is on the line now that goes into the back of the gauge cluster.

The 2nd picture is of the type fittings I need to screw onto my aftermarket oil gauge. They are both male fittings, so I'd almost need an open ended pass through piece that is female on both sides with threads all the way through the middle. Not sure if the diameter would be the same on each side though.

That might be tough to find. The threads would be different on each end.. Have you thought about just hooking up another stock gauge removed from a cluster.

LockDoc

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

That might be tough to find. The threads would be different on each end.. Have you thought about just hooking up another stock gauge removed from a cluster.

LockDoc

Well the stock gauges on my year don't show the PSI.

The whole reason I'm doing this is because I just did the conversion from idiot lights to gauge cluster. My oil pressure is pegged at high when the truck is running. I need to verify what my actual PSI is, owners manual for my GM crate engine claims 40 PSI at 2000 RPM. I'm idling at 600 RPM and its buried past H.

It's a brand new cluster with all brand new gauges.

It's the only gauge now that isn't working correctly.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Well the stock gauges on my year don't show the PSI.

The whole reason I'm doing this is because I just did the conversion from idiot lights to gauge cluster. My oil pressure is pegged at high when the truck is running. I need to verify what my actual PSI is, owners manual for my GM crate engine claims 40 PSI at 2000 RPM. I'm idling at 600 RPM and its buried past H.

It's a brand new cluster with all brand new gauges.

It's the only gauge now that isn't working correctly.

Stock gauges are 60psi so center would be 30. Trying another stock gauge would tell you whether your replacement unit is screwy or not, or if something else was causing it..... My '68 with a stock 327 pegs the needle when it is cold, so does the '72 Dually with the new GM crate engine. Doing it that way would keep you from having to cut up your new oil line.

LockDoc

[1972BlueC20]

Hooked up a temp oil gauge. I'm getting 60 PSI at idle. No wonder my factory gauge is on the H.

Will running 60 PSI hurt the factory gauge?

I'm running 10w30 valvoline synthetic. Would switching to 5w30 help lower my pressure?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Hooked up a temp oil gauge. I'm getting 60 PSI at idle. No wonder my factory gauge is on the H.

Will running 60 PSI hurt the factory gauge?

I'm running 10w30 valvoline synthetic. Would switching to 5w30 help lower my pressure?

Running high hasn't hurt either one of my stock gauges. With a new engine I doubt switching would make much difference.....

LockDoc

[davepl]

Hate to admit it, but for that tiny line I cut it with side-cutters and squish it back round. I think it's too small, at 1/16th or so, for most tubing cutters. The ferrule does the sealing, not the tube end, so it's not really all that critical.

I think the dremel cutoff sounds like the best and cleanest approach!

[Dave K.]

After using the tubing cutter you might need to take a fine file and clean it up. Worth the extra effort and mine have never leaked.

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by davepl

Hate to admit it, but for that tiny line I cut it with side-cutters and squish it back round. I think it's too small, at 1/16th or so, for most tubing cutters. The ferrule does the sealing, not the tube end, so it's not really all that critical.

I think the dremel cutoff sounds like the best and cleanest approach!

Agree most people would not have that size tubing cutter , but if you are looking to purchase one ................ Most tubing cutter Company's that make them call them IMP tubing cutters most IMP size tubing cutters will cut tubing Diameters' from 3/8'' down to 1/8 ''