Scope Creep - It Does Happen

[67C10Step]

So, I started pulling my front end apart last weekend for rebuild and disc brake swap. Here is the saga as it happened, where we stand, and what is next.

Exhaust and starter was in the way to get to the back U bolt on the passenger's side lower A frame. No problem, just pull the starter. Hmmm, both battery cables aren't the greatest, let's pull those and toss them. Someone in the past had replaced the yellow wire from the solenoid to the coil but left the old one still wound up in the tape. Let's pull all that apart and put it back together correctly. Got all the wires strung out now and going to replace the solenoid to coil wire with a new, yellow one. Routed the plug wires to as close to factory correct for the 283 as I could get.

While I am at this I am going to replace the cab and core support bushings so now my plan is to remove the fuel line, the E brake cable and extras, remove the seat, remove the fuel tank, and probably go ahead and pull the radiator. Removing the front bumper as well so I can paint that part of the frame and the brackets.

I thought I was just doing a front end rebuild and brake swap.

[clay68c10]

That’s how it works almost every time I open my tool box

[54blackhornet]

What’s the temp by you ? I don’t know how you do it in AZ..

[Southcity]

I'd say it's like this for any of us that do our own wrenching on our vehicles. I also learned a long time ago to never put a time frame on any project regardless of how simple or difficult you may perceive it to be. Hang in there, take your time and the job will be done right because you are doing it!

[weq92f]

.
There was a time in the past when this didn't happen...you know back when the project was always on the daily driver.

Now that the project vehicle can sit for days or even weeks in the shop in various states of completeness... the creep can just keep on creepin'

-klb

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

What’s the temp by you ? I don’t know how you do it in AZ..

Here in central Arkansas it is about 93-95 with a heat index of about 100. Tomorrow the heat index is supposed to me 106-110. No shop time in the morning due to my daughter's graduation so that may mean no shop time until after dark.

Yeah, I figure if I pull it all apart and do it right I'll be happy with the finished product. Anything else and I'll not be happy with it.

I am making notes on the rust repair I need to do and may tackle some of that in the fall/winter. Would like to have it road worthy by spring 2021 but maybe not with the bed ready.

[mike1971c10]

I went out to the garage this morning there in Phoenix, and at 6:00am it's 90 degree. Really hard to replace plug wires, with water dripping in your eyes. Made it thru 4 and went back inside!!! This weekend it's suppose to be 116-117
(but it's a dry heat)
mike

[firedemon]

here in upstate ny its been 90s all week yesterday 97 humid as hell . i have decided this years tax return is going for a mini split system should be nice and cool next summer and a little heat in the winter . im a fat boy . heat aint good

[67ChevyRedneck]

Yep, I often get a bad case of the "while I'm at it's"

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

That’s how it works almost every time I open my tool box

Fix it before it breaks, It has saved my cookies multiple times.

[Boog]

Really, it's just a sensuous thing. Sensuous in there already might as well fix that too!

[sick472]

My ultimate scope creep was a $800 beater 67 mustang that was going to be a "green" project... Swap in a Mercedes diesel 5 cylinder and run vegetable oil all the while leaving it looking very rough on the outside. Read low budget. Long story short... My 3 sources for used oil all dried up, burnt down ironically, and 8 years later it's fully resto-modded with a stroked 289, 5 speed manual, disc brakes all the way around, all the rustang cancer cut out and replaced, etc, etc, etc. Gotta love it!

[special-K]

I have a change of scope story on my '72 K2500. The truck changed the scope for me, or was it evil gremlins?

I was installing new springs up front which require longer brake hoses. I've done this so many times I could do it in my sleep. Knowing it may be difficult breaking the brake line loose from the hose, plus it's up in there and hard to get to, I pull the headers, which is never a hard thing and a chance to do new gaskets. I pull the spark plugs because I know they can get broken removing the headers. Well, one snaps off at the hex. I'll worry about that later. The line breaks loose real easy. I removed the whole line and it was in beautiful condition, so no need for the pre-bent Inline Tube brake line I bought in advance. Life is good, truck is sitting on all fours with freshly bled brakes. Now for that spark plug.

That base just would not break loose. Soak soak soak, heat, no budging. I put a breaker bar on it and break it off flush. Now what? The tip end and core are still in there! Can't just drill it out and risk leaving metal particles in the combustion chamber, head needs to come off. I get it magnafluxed and sure enough, there was a crack that let coolant in (truck didn't use coolant) that chamber and I guess caused the plug to seize. Now I need a head, so it's top end time on an engine I built in '91. I don't normally put a fresh top end on a lower end with a lot of miles.

It didn't help that all this was not in my budget and I needed my truck running to work it till winter. I was debating doing a rebuild, replacement engine, or top-end with new heads when I went to the ATCA national show at Macungie, PA where they have a swap meet. Walked through the evening we arrived and saw a pair of orange SBC heads. I figured I'd see about them in the morning. I didn't expect to have enough money for what appeared to be very nice complete fresh looking heads. I asked about them the next morning, "Those small block heads over there? I built those for my Vega show car. All new springs, etc. I pulled them off to put a set of aluminum heads on". So, these heads are ready to bolt on, and he did that work for himself on his own beloved car. so the only question that remains is "How much are you asking?". I wonder if I kept my cool poker face when he told me, "50 bucks". I have never pulled $50 out of my pocket faster. The truck runs better than ever, definitely better compression. Sound better even. So good gone to bad and back to great!

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

So, I started pulling my front end apart last weekend for rebuild and disc brake swap. Here is the saga as it happened, where we stand, and what is next.

Exhaust and starter was in the way to get to the back U bolt on the passenger's side lower A frame. No problem, just pull the starter. Hmmm, both battery cables aren't the greatest, let's pull those and toss them. Someone in the past had replaced the yellow wire from the solenoid to the coil but left the old one still wound up in the tape. Let's pull all that apart and put it back together correctly. Got all the wires strung out now and going to replace the solenoid to coil wire with a new, yellow one. Routed the plug wires to as close to factory correct for the 283 as I could get.

While I am at this I am going to replace the cab and core support bushings so now my plan is to remove the fuel line, the E brake cable and extras, remove the seat, remove the fuel tank, and probably go ahead and pull the radiator. Removing the front bumper as well so I can paint that part of the frame and the brackets.

I thought I was just doing a front end rebuild and brake swap.

I assume you know that you do not have to pull the seat and tank to change the cab bushings. The rear bolts have a captured nut in the cab

[Boog]

It was worth the trip!

[mr48chev]

While I am at it syndrome hits all of us quite often. Usually in the wallet and time line to finish the project.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I assume you know that you do not have to pull the seat and tank to change the cab bushings. The rear bolts have a captured nut in the cab

Yes, but there is a dent in the floor board that I want to work out and if my luck runs as normal I’ll have an issue with one of the capture nuts. My seat is only being held in with one bolt right now so it will come out easy. If I pull the tank I’ll probably not have issues with those back bolts but it will let me work on a dent in the passenger side cab corner more easily as well. This truck has not been on the road in about 14 years so a little more time to take care of a few things isn’t gonna hurt.

It’s probably gonna swarm on me but I’m in no big hurry.

[gmc684x4]

I had that happen to a budget 350 build picked up a set of used vortec heads
Sold a truck to the machinist to rebuilt the heads 2 years latter he never rebuilt the heads
Went through many blocks to find one in spec for rebuilding find one that can be bored 40 over ask firmly that it be magna fluxed for cracks after hot tanking he does all machine work then test the block big crack in the valley
Buy new engine a piece at a time

['68OrangeSunshine]

67C10STEP -- If you're running HEI, then the Yellow 20 wire to the starter solenoid is no longer necessary. But if you still have original points, it probably won't start without that connection.
Here in Tucson AZ, it's 101*F, could possibly go as high as 110. Humidity is 22% -- which is high, a sign the Monsoons are finally coming. Ten % probability of precipitation. We need rain because we've been in drought for years, and in our local Santa Catalina Mountain range, the Bighorn Fire has been burning for a month.

Good luck containing mission creep. I've been using a hi-visability safety glove on my left hand for making manual turn signals at night, since March. I know if I pull the steering column for new bearings [upper and lower], rebuild & repaint on the OEM steering wheel, new Turn Signal switch, etc., I'll kill my '68 C/10 Stepside as a daily driver. And I need it for work. So it's hand signals for now.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

67C10STEP -- If you're running HEI, then the Yellow 20 wire to the starter solenoid is no longer necessary. But if you still have original points, it probably won't start without that connection.
Here in Tucson AZ, it's 101*F, could possibly go as high as 110. Humidity is 22% -- which is high, a sign the Monsoons are finally coming. Ten % probability of precipitation. We need rain because we've been in drought for years, and in our local Santa Catalina Mountain range, the Bighorn Fire has been burning for a month.

Good luck containing mission creep. I've been using a hi-visability safety glove on my left hand for making manual turn signals at night, since March. I know if I pull the steering column for new bearings [upper and lower], rebuild & repaint on the OEM steering wheel, new Turn Signal switch, etc., I'll kill my '68 C/10 Stepside as a daily driver. And I need it for work. So it's hand signals for now.

Still rockin the old points and coil for now but HEI is on the list. When I redo this wiring I’m going to leave the yellow wire outside the wrap so I can easily eliminate it in the future.

My outside thermometer says it’s 101 in the shade on my screened porch. Humidity probably pushes the heat index to 110 or close. Get the exhaust fan and ceiling fan running in the shop but not going out there until about dark. Just got out of the pool.😀

['68OrangeSunshine]

I'm waiting until sunset to flush the radiator. Hot water AND the hot sun? Forget it.
It's 107 now.