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Old 05-23-2020, 03:36 AM   #2201
ajgriffin
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Getting the Hill’s Rod and Custom (now Stoner Speed Shop) inner fenders installed, and boy, lemme tell ya, what a pain. But, man do they complete the “stock, but not” theme in the engine bay. Still lots more to do to get everything fitting perfectly on this side before moving to the driver’s, which should go a little smoother now that I have some clue of how to attack it. Bonus: the billet hinges fit with plenty of room to spare

Undecided on the cut fender edge treatment, I’m tossing around leave as-is, weld in a rolled edge, or use press-on door edging...
Check out what Rob did on one of his builds a while back. Its a long shot, but maybe he still has the bucks? 🤔

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=657
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Old 05-23-2020, 02:56 PM   #2202
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Wow! I didn't realize aftermarket (fender mounted) hinges would clear the HR&C/SSS tubs. That's great to know. I didn't want to have to cut the cowl on my 67/68 RetroRod for PB's style hinge.
These are the only ones I know of that will. They were designed by Brandon Sisco for his 2-door Tahoe using Slosh Tubs. I haven’t seen anyone else do it with these, so I took a (somewhat researched and calculated) gamble that they would work and can happily report lots of clearance. I’m with you on the cowl cutting and prefer the more “stock” look of fender located.

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Check out what Rob did on one of his builds a while back. Its a long shot, but maybe he still has the bucks? ��

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=657
Thanks, I remember that, and I do like the look. It would drive a slight modification to my hinge mounting, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome.
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:19 PM   #2203
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Thanks, ajgriffin, for the reminder. A quick text to Rob and it turns out the wooden bucks still exist and are headed my way next week I love this place...
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:40 PM   #2204
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks, ajgriffin, for the reminder. A quick text to Rob and it turns out the wooden bucks still exist and are headed my way next week I love this place...
Awesome!!!
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Old 05-24-2020, 12:05 AM   #2205
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Tell me more about these hood hinges, please!
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:36 AM   #2206
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Tell me more about these hood hinges, please!
Sold by All-American Billet, made to reside in the stock location but out of the way of the tires on slammed trucks. I found out about them after seeing them installed on the Ghoesst “Tahoe”.

https://shop.allamericanbillet.com/a...uctid=-8534758
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:19 PM   #2207
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks man! Still lots more to go...

No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS
Huh, weird. I didn't buy a kit with the compressor either, but I got a belt with mine. Brackets, tensioner, hardware and belt.
Sorry it took so long to respond, haven't been on since my last post and your thread has added 4 pages of stuff since then. Glad you didn't need the part number.

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It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade... ...the snowball is in full effect...
Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it?
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:26 PM   #2208
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it?
...and just as ominous. I knew better, but I did it anyway...

Few little things I’ve been able to get knocked out: first, I ordered the Dakota Digital mounting bracket from Dead End Garage. It comes raw and undrilled, so I tapped it for stainless hardware and slapped some rattle can satin black on it. Mounts up nice and saves me having to make something; in this case it was deemed worth the money.

Also got started on the exhaust; now that all of the other major components are in place, I can figure out where to snake it through. I decided on an x-pipe this time, and it was a chore threading it around the trans x-member, driveshaft loop, and through the cutouts in the trailing arm x-member. I’m calling it good enough for now, and it is stubbed and ready to start the rear (difficult) section.
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Old 07-07-2020, 10:49 AM   #2209
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That trans x-member the way it zigs and zags sure is nice creating that perfect clearance for long tubes. I wish I new about that one. I'm half tempted to modify mine but I will wait for phase II. Everything is already done and I need to move on the paint.

So one thing I noticed, that I have not ever seen before, is how you put the x pipe sideways like that. I assume you did your research on that and it should flow, but my first thought seeing that is "will if flow properly"?

It looks great under there like that man.

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Old 07-07-2020, 11:07 AM   #2210
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:25 AM   #2211
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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That trans x-member the way it zigs and zags sure is nice creating that perfect clearance for long tubes. I wish I new about that one. I'm half tempted to modify mine but I will wait for phase II. Everything is already done and I need to move on the paint.

So one thing I noticed, that I have not ever seen before, is how you put the x pipe sideways like that. I assume you did your research on that and it should flow, but my first thought seeing that is "will if flow properly"?

It looks great under there like that man.

.
Thanks! Yeah, I had the same concerns with the X rotated 90° from what is ‘normal’, but that’s the only way I could make the angles work with all of the other stuff crammed into that area. Looking through the inside of it, it’s basically a wide-open chamber, so it looks like it will flow well regardless of position.

I’ve looked and scratched my head a bit and have come to realize that the gasses would still be flowing through the X the same way, it’s just the bends in the ‘legs’ that are at different angles, if that makes sense. Guess we’ll see how it works out?

The trans crossmember is an ECE (or POL, or CPP, can’t remember) that I modified. Works great for what I needed. See how I did it here:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=314
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:30 AM   #2212
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.
I think we can make it happen, I have a few ideas on how
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:34 AM   #2213
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I'll drive it to your house and we can crawl underneath and discuss. I'd love to hear your ideas.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:42 AM   #2214
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Oh shoot man, I remember that post now. So it was YOU!!! lol. That gave me that idea. We have the same crossmember. I shoulda coulda woulda.

Yeah it's those angles that concern me. I realize the actual X is a wide open chamber, but the air/gases moving along the pipe bends coming into the X will be angled toward the opposing side instead of into the X like normal. So essentially the left and right banks will be angled "against" each other(like a head on collision), more violently than if they were angled parallel "with" each other. I think of those wind tunnels they build to test aerodynamics of cars, or I think of porting and polishing heads and gasket matching ports to create a smoother flow of air.

I don't want to say this "isn't" going to work, my brain is just having a hard time imagining it will work efficiently is all. I see turbulance in your future

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Old 07-07-2020, 11:52 AM   #2215
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I'll drive it to your house and we can crawl underneath and discuss. I'd love to hear your ideas.
How much room between the trans x-member and the trailing arm x-member? This one is 12.5” long, probably 7-8” wide: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-sxp4

I think one of these “sideways” and four mandrel 90s and we’re in business.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:59 AM   #2216
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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How much room between the trans x-member and the trailing arm x-member? This one is 12.5” long, probably 7-8” wide: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-sxp4

I think one of these “sideways” and four mandrel 90s and we’re in business.
Now look at this x-pipe picture above compared to yours. This one would work sideways as you can see the angles of the pipe work no matter which way you turn it. Your X however isn't angled like this. It's not "universal" to angle/direction...

Then again, i'm no expert, i could be wrong

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Old 07-07-2020, 12:07 PM   #2217
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Now look at this x-pipe picture above compared to yours. This one would work sideways as you can see the angles of the pipe work no matter which way you turn it. Your X however isn't angled like this. It's not "universal" to angle/direction...

Then again, i'm no expert, i could be wrong

.
Me either, dunno. I’m just hoping it will help smooth out some of the glasspacky-ness of the Magnaflows. If it sounds like a can of bees, then I’ll have to re-think it
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:10 PM   #2218
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Me either, dunno. I’m just hoping it will help smooth out some of the glasspacky-ness of the Magnaflows. If it sounds like a can of bees, then I’ll have to re-think it
I didn't mean to go on and on about it.... I may have had too much coffee this morning. I will be interested to hear it/see how it turns out. Mainly because I did an H pipe for reasons of clearance issues and would love to find out sideways works. I would change my configuration if so.

Keep up the good work gringo.

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Old 07-10-2020, 03:51 AM   #2219
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Thanks dudes! Moved on to final clean, prep, and paint on the engine. Gotta say, I’m digging it
Sorry for bringing up old stuff, but it seems like you weren't too concerned about paint in the threads or fluid passages. Did that work out well for you? I'm getting ready to paint my engine so I thought I'd ask. Also, what was your prep process before you painted the valve cover adapters? Thanks for the info - really enjoying your build!

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Old 07-11-2020, 01:28 PM   #2220
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Sorry for bringing up old stuff, but it seems like you weren't too concerned about paint in the threads or fluid passages. Did that work out well for you? I'm getting ready to paint my engine so I thought I'd ask. Also, what was your prep process before you painted the valve cover adapters? Thanks for the info - really enjoying your build!
No worries and thanks for checking in. I wasn’t super concerned, but you could stuff some paper in the holes or carefully tape them off. I did have rags in the intake ports and covered any areas that I thought might get paint into oil passages. Personal preference really, can’t hurt to be overly cautious. I like to run a tap into all of the holes I’m using, too, especially with an *ahem* gently used engine.

Valve cover adapters I simply sanded and used a self etching primer to help the paint stick to the aluminum.
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:33 PM   #2221
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Took some time to get the exhaust plumbed over the rear axle. Im using mandrel bends for everything and “snapper” bushing hangers. I had to replace the magnaflows with these Borla pro-xs, due to the outlet configuration; hopefully they sound decent, hard to tell from YouTube clips. It’s all tacked and ready for final weld tomorrow
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:57 PM   #2222
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Great work. Ive heard Borla exhaust before on a cousins 2019 silverado with the 5.3. It sounds pretty good.
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Old 07-14-2020, 07:07 PM   #2223
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That's the same mufflers that B.O.B. has on it. I think they'll sound good on there.

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Old 07-15-2020, 07:13 AM   #2224
Palf70Step
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I had Borlas on my 83 and they sounded really good.
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:00 AM   #2225
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC View Post
Great work. Ive heard Borla exhaust before on a cousins 2019 silverado with the 5.3. It sounds pretty good.
Thanks, and good to know. I’m a little concerned, but no going back now
Quote:
Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
That's the same mufflers that B.O.B. has on it. I think they'll sound good on there.

Are you ready to be invaded?
Definitely! We may not get this turd driving, but at least we can drink beers and talk trucks.

I do like Bob’s tone, but a big Ford will sound different than my little Chevy. I looked at venom 250s, but they’re just so loud. (I think I just got old)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Palf70Step View Post
I had Borlas on my 83 and they sounded really good.
Thanks for the input. I’m still torn, but if they get rid of the glasspack-sounding “clap” that the Magnaflows had, I’ll be happy
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