How to slow down relay cycle time

[willett]

Hi guys,

I have installed 2 Grote amber marker lights on the front of my jeep. I want to use them as both daytime running lights and turn signals.

Here is the problem: The only amber lights that I can find only have a positive and a negative lead. I cannot find any 3 way amber lights so I drew up this schematic for a 5 pin relay:



The DRL module feeds the main power for the relay, the old turn signal wire feeds the signal for the relay coil. When there is no turn signal 87a is energized by the ignition power and feeds the marker, when the signal cycles the 87 terminal is energized and feeds a pulse to the lights. This all looked great on paper but there is one problem: the relay cycles so fast that you can barely see a flicker of the turn signal!!

Is there any way I can add a capacitor or use a different style of 5 pin relay or add something inline to the relay signal wire to slow down the cycle time??

Thanks, spencer

[_Ogre]

take the wire off of 87

[franken]

So the signal from the flasher goes to 86?
Put a current limiting resistor in series w/ the coil. The signal flasher runs off heat generated by current. Less current means slower flashing.
I would actually think it would flash too slow based on my understanding that a relay coil doesn't draw much, but its worth a shot

[67 Burb]

With the ignition power going to the relay #87, you won't have DRL's. #87 is open when the relay is at rest. Connect ignition to #87a, which is closed with the relay at rest, then the DRL's will be on until the relay is flashed on. As a two-prong flasher will not flash a relay alone, if you are also flashing a bulb (rear turn signal), the relay flashes fine. I just hooked up this circuit on my bench and it worked OK, although the front clearance / daytime running light flashes opposite to the rear turn signal, which should not be a problem. And it was a nice normal flash, not fast at all.

[67 Burb]

You will, of course, need a relay for each side. Here's what I did:

[fixit-p]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

take the wire off of 87

Originally Posted by 67 Burb

You will, of course, need a relay for each side. Here's what I did:

Winner winner chicken dinners.

Do that and your set, right now with the light connected to both 87 and 87a you basically switching the light from "on" to "on". removing the wire at pin 87 you interrupt the circuit every time the relay is energized.

[67 Burb]

Originally Posted by fixit-p

Winner winner chicken dinners.

Do that and your set, right now with the light connected to both 87 and 87a you basically switching the light from "on" to "on". removing the wire at pin 87 you interrupt the circuit every time the relay is energized.

Yeh, I wondered about Willett's diagram as well, with the light connected to both #87 and #87a giving an ON / ON scenario. It worked fine the way my diagram shows using #87a only.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by fixit-p

Winner winner chicken dinners.

do you deliver?

[willett]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll give er a go tomorrow

My logic with splicing 87 and 87 a was that there would be some
Delay as the coil energized but there isn't nearly enough!

Here's Willis


Here's a willy's


I just Completed a frame and tub Replacement.
next I'm going to stencil a big white star on the hood and doors

[67 Burb]

So, Willett, did you get a chance to have a go at those DRL / turn signal lights?

[willett]

I never got a chance last weekend. Hopefully I will be able to get user the hood this weekend.

[willett]

Finally got around to wiring it up. Works like a charm, thanks guys!

[67 Burb]

Originally Posted by willett

Finally got around to wiring it up. Works like a charm, thanks guys!

Glad to help.