Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread

[VA72C10]

love the post...nice ingenuity on the fix

[hgs_notes]

Still working on lights. Headlights work, tail lights work, rear side markers work, front parking lights work. What doesn't work yet is the turn signals (flashers do work) and the front side markers. They have me flumoxed (is that a real word). I have a post on the main board requesting help with this.

I'll have to check the license plate light and reverse later also.

Here are the tail lights al painted up nice with new ground wires.


heres a couple tail lights working, the pass side may need more work, it cuts out cause the bulb holder is a bit loose.


And this was the under dash curtesy light I took out. I don't think it was a stocker for this particular vehicle. Anyone got pics of what is supposed to be under there?

[hgs_notes]

Just got some info that should help clear up a couple more light issues. I'll try it tomorrow and post the results.

I found a car for my daughter. Driving down a highway I hadn't been on for a while. 93 Tempo, 125k, very good condition for it's age, decent tires, good stereo, previous owner seems to have taken good care of it. The daughter likes it, loves the color and can buy it herself in cash. I'm making him an offer for it in the morning. He's asking $800, but said he'd take less, just wants it gone. It'll be more dependable than the jimmy, and doesn't need any repairs at the moment.

[hgs_notes]

Got my daughter the car for $700 and she paid for it herself and so far she loves it.

Back to the Jimmy. I learned last night that the front parking signal lights are the ground source for the side marker lights. So I mounted those up, put in new bulbs and tried it out and shazam! they work! Whens the last time you heard someone use Shazam! in a sentence? And yes, it must have an exclamation point after it in all cases.

The only important driving light that is not working is the left rear blinker/brake light. That circuit is dead for the moment. I'll pull the bulb and do a voltage test to see if it's the bulb or bulb holder this weekend, and if not, just start tracing it up the line 'til I find the problem.

I need to get the dash and dome lights working too, but that's not really important yet. I did get a new junction block mounted to the fender by the battery too. Before there was just a nut and bolt holding the wires together with black tape wrapped around it. I have to re-tape some harness, but overall, it's coming along swimmingly. Swimmingly, there's another good old word. I'm a freakin' thesaurus tonight.

Once the lights are all working, I'm going to finish putting in the headers and exhaust. Well, the headers for sure, the exhaust I'm hoping will bolt up ok, but I won't know til I try it. The only other priority with the engine/tranny after that is getting the correct tranny (thinkin' with your) dipstick (Jimmy) and the kickdown cable in and adjusted. I think those two items can wait 'til after the brakes are working though. I'm not even sure where to start on those.

[nuke1]

wow, no wonder why those lights no work, rusty!!!! i have never seen that much rust there before, coming along it is.

[hgs_notes]

These are the headers I bought. A screaming deal. Ceramic coated, heavy flanges, full tube length, delivered for about $125.

The seller is Holley Performance, and it is old stock items. They don't have any listed right now, but I've seen them since I bought these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7452&viewitem=

[71swb4x4]

Looking good Mike. How long until you think you will be driving it regularly?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Looking good Mike. How long until you think you will be driving it regularly?

What have you been working on. I thought you bought a truck last year, but haven't heard about it since.

To answer your question, somewhere between next summer and never

Here's the status of the apparatus. IF I get the brakes working properly, and the exhaust in, and the tranny kickdown cable, and dipstick all done this fall, THEN next spring I might be able to do some of the sheetmetal work and beat it around during the summer and beyond.

At a minimum, the windshield has to be replaced and the floor pans replaced. In order to do the windshield, the frame should be replaced (I just happen to have a couple), which means the top will need to be lifted off, which will remove support for the firewall. So, in my own head I'm thinking about body mounts first. Then maybe some bracing under the bed where the cross braces rusted away. Then I have a fair set of used torsion boxes that should be installed, but I'll need to do cab supports too. Then I can do the floor pans, brace the door opening, take off the top, fix the windshield frame and put in a windshield.

Now at that point, the rest of the rust repair could probably wait. I have better doors and a driver side fender. Still looking for a pass side fender. The back half is seriously rotted though. If I decided to drive it topless next year, I'll be putting a support across from bed rail to bed rail, to keep the sides from falling out (not kidding). The tailgate is already hard to open because of spread.

My daughter has a car now, so there is no impending use for it. My son, who has since claimed the jimmy as his, is still a couple years away from driving. He has been helping me out now and then on my projects and likes them. I'm somewhat confident that this will be his later on. And by that time, this may be a pretty decent ride.

[VA72C10]

Headers look good. Glad to hear you're getting to work on it. My truck sat almost untouched for 15 months while I compiled parts and waited on a guy to do the welding. Now that I found someone for that my project has started moving and I get to go over there often to work on it. It's fun to be making progress. Wish I only had $693 in mine though

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Wish I only had $693 in mine though

Another way to save a few bucks, I went to the local licensing place the other day and registered it as a collector and won't have to pay for plates ever again. Cost about $50 one time fee.

I will end up spending some money on it though. Gaskets and seals, brake parts, some replacement sheetmetal, etc. No matter what you do, these old rigs will nickel and dime you to bankruptcy if you let them.

[gferris5]

Hey Mike~
Frequent board-lurker here. Just wanted to say nice work on the truck here; looks like its going to be a lot of fun. and I hear you about the stress relieving aspect of working on these old trucks. Anyway, keep up the good work!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by gferris5

Hey Mike~
Frequent board-lurker here. Just wanted to say nice work on the truck here; looks like its going to be a lot of fun. and I hear you about the stress relieving aspect of working on these old trucks. Anyway, keep up the good work!

Thanks, yeah the truck has come ways, still so far to go though.

I've been taking a few minutes here and there looking at brake things. The rear resorvoir of the master cylinder was empty, but I did not add fluid because I'm going to check the lines and cylinders first. Does no good to pour fluid to the ground.

I found a test procedure online here http://www.autoshop101.com/ (check the tech articles link) and found that the booster is functioning, but has some leakage issues, maybe related to a check valve or according to a mechanic friend of mine, just lack of use. Very good info on that site though.

Then last night I jacked up the front axle and tested the function of the front brakes. They grab and release like they are supposed to. I'll pull the wheels and check the condition of the pads and rotors later on.

With all the work I've been doing underneath this thing, I wish I would have used the pressure washer under there also. I think I might still do that, then blow it off with the air hose. I'm getting tired of wiping my eyes out all the time.

[hgs_notes]

Rear brakes are nonexistent with the hydraulic side, and very weak with the emergency brake. Will take a closer look later.

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Rear brakes are nonexistent with the hydraulic side, and very weak with the emergency brake. Will take a closer look later.

I just went through this with my '72 4x4 and found bad rear wheel cylinders, bad hard lines on the rear axle, and a bad master cylinder (rear reservoir).

Also check to see if your outer axle seals are leaking while you have the rear brake drums off as this indicates scored axles and bad outer wheel bearings.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

I just went through this with my '72 4x4 and found bad rear wheel cylinders, bad hard lines on the rear axle, and a bad master cylinder (rear reservoir).

Also check to see if your outer axle seals are leaking while you have the rear brake drums off as this indicates scored axles and bad outer wheel bearings.

Thanks for the tip, will do.

[hgs_notes]

Last night I was able to start the brake inspection. I say start because the rear drums are stuck to the axle hubs. HARD. I tried heating the drum and cooling the hub, then bang with a hammer. No luck. It's been getting sprayed with PB blaster since yesterday. I'll try again later. The drums are shot though. They were rusted as bad as any I've ever seen. They both cracked in places while trying to bang them off. So, I'll be looking for drums. The fronts don't look too bad. I think the pass side rotor and pads had been replaced not long before it was parked. The driver side pads are wore, but not down to metal yet, which is good. The rotor has uneven wear. One side more than the other.

Anyone know where to look on the rotor to find the minimum thickness stamp? I couldn't find it. I might have some brake pads in the garage somewhere for it. I bought some brake lines from someone on the board that should be on the way. I figure on replacing all the rear lines, rear cylinders, shoes, tension springs, and drums.

I'm undecided on the booster/master cylinder. I may not have a choice, but I'm not at the point yet to know that.

Seriously though, on the rotor thickness, where is it, what is it if you have access to a brake spec book, etc.?

[hgs_notes]

Didn't get much of an assist here today, but I figured it out. I found one of my spare rotors out in the garage, from the green Jimmy and found the thickness stamping. You gotta wonder about these manufacturers sometimes. The stamping or actually, casting number is on the back side. So you would have to take the rotor off to find the info. Anyway, mine are ok. They wouldn't be hurt by a resurface to clean them up, but there is no grooving or major defects in them, and the thick ness is good. So on the front, I'll replace the driver side pads and clean 'em up a bit.

The rear brakes, not so good. I finally beat the drums off. I found that if you use a persuasive hit with a rather large hammer on the outer edge, it helps break 'em loose. Once they popped loose, no problem.

Inside was not pretty. The passenger side had a rodent nest in it. The drums were toast, even before I busted them up a bit with my persuasive hammering. The cylinders are both rusted. The driver side looked as if it was stored in water off and on over the past several years.

I got them tore apart now, except for the cylinders, which are soaking in PB blaster on the brake line fitting. Hopefully they come apart ok, the lines are dirty, but don't look severely rusted.

Time to start searching for parts.

[hgs_notes]

Only worked on it for about 10-15 minutes today. Got the drivers side cylinder off, along with about 1" of the brake line. The fitting was previously rounded off, so a visegrips was about the only option. Twisting the line made no difference cause it would need to be replaced anyway. The pass side is still a bit of a problem. The line came off, it twisted a little, but I don't think it kinked anywhere. Got one wheel cylinder bolt out, the other was so corroded that the hex is too round for even a 6 point socket. I'll try the visegrips and if that doesn't work I'll just grind or cut it off.

Bought some used lines from JUSBLAZ here. They should be here this coming week. Been price comparing the various parts stores and online for wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and drums. Everything but the drums are cheap enough, but new drums are spendy items.

I thought I found a good deal on ebay, but they were an older style and I'm not sure they would work. I've been told that 69 and older are different, and they do have a different part #, but I don't know what's different. They are both 11" x 2" and 6 lug. If someone knows, please respond here.

I'll be checking the yards this next week. I know where a few of these are sitting, just need to get prices. By next weekend I'll have the brakes back together, then I'll take a deeper look at the master cylinder. I should see if I can find the procedure to rebuild it. And the booster check valve is only like $9, so I might try that as well.

I haven't posted any pics in a while because it's just been a slow brake job, but I took some tonight that look alright. I think it looks like it's going to launch here.

Driver side front, wore, but not shot. Just needs pads.

Front pass side, looks pretty good really.

Driver side rear dismantled. A bit rusty. The e-brake cable end looked ok. I should try and lubricate it and see if it'll loosen up more.

Pile of rust and dirt from the same corner.

Rear pass side. Stuck wheel cylinder still in place and pile of rust and dirt, etc.

[badpeanut]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I thought I found a good deal on ebay, but they were an older style and I'm not sure they would work. I've been told that 69 and older are different, and they do have a different part #, but I don't know what's different. They are both 11" x 2" and 6 lug. If someone knows, please respond here.

Is the difference the diameter of the center hole? I had problems putting 6-lug '71 up wheels (from a four wheel drive) on a '69 (two wheel drive) because the center hole was slightly too small.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

Is the difference the diameter of the center hole? I had problems putting 6-lug '71 up wheels (from a four wheel drive) on a '69 (two wheel drive) because the center hole was slightly too small.

I think it's more than that. Not sure dimension wise, but the older style is smooth on the outside and newer is finned. Same up to 74. After that they are bigger and wider.

I've been searching high and low for the replacement drums. I thought I had a line on used ones, but both fell through. So I started looking at all of the available manufacturers, collecting part numbers, comparing prices, etc. For anyone interested, here are the part#s that fit a 71-73 K-5 or K10 truck.
Raybestos 2067 or 2067R
AC Delco 18B471
Bendix 140255
Napa equivalent of the bendix one is # UP 6401200
Wagner BD60292
Qualis 8821 This one supplies a few of the parts stores under store brand names and are usually listed as the same part #.

I found a pair at autopartsnerd.com for about $78 shipped to my door. Used ones were going to cost about $20 each. I also picked up new cylinders, shoes, a booster check valve and hardware at napa for about $65 for a total brake parts outlay of $143. So the total spent is now at $836.

If it ever quits raining out I'll be able to work on it. It has been about 50F or colder and raining for about a week now. Ick.

[hgs_notes]

My brake drums came in today, and it was chilly, but dry. I decided to get these back together now because it's supposed to be colder yet this weekend. It's about 30F right now and my daughter said it's trying to snow a little. Anyway, I had all my parts out for the rear and was having trouble remembering how to put them back together. I'm not clueless, but it's not just coming back to me either. It's been a couple weeks, ya know. The Haynes manual was basically worthless. I've got an old Chiltons book that basically saved me with some real good drawings.

I replaced the one busted line, and got the rear brakes all back together with new parts. I inspected the lines going all the way to the master cylinder, no kinks, bulges, or other issues. But there is no flow from the master cylinder. I took off the line from the master cylinder to the prop valve and it's dry. So now I'll need to find a master cylinder or a kit to rebuild it. Yippie.

I'm running out of time before winter really rolls in. Think I'll try and strap that exhaust on and finish the brakes up and call it a season. I may still work on it some this winter. I've been spending a lot of time this past week insulating the garage ceiling (walls already done) and ordered a propane conversion kit for the heater I picked up this summer. Put a couple lights on it to for the driveway and by the walk in door.

[Sacramento70]

any updates, its nice to see a classic comes together

[70stroker]

looking good. keep up the good work.

I wish i could find a 4x4 blazer around these parts.

[hgs_notes]

For those who thought this thread was dead, or just forgot about it, here it is again. I started pulling the new parts blazer apart. Getting the garbage out of the way and getting it ready to pull the tub off. I'm almost there.

[hgs_notes]

This is way too early for this.