Power brakes with manual transmission

[trucktony]

I found a nice photo of the carbon filter on the web.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by chevyguyase

Here are some pictures of the booster linkage on my '54 3100 with a Borg Warner 5 speed. I don't know how close it is to your set up. Hope this helps.

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
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[yossarian19]

I went to a firewall mounted booster. I haven't even plumbed brakes yet and I am *so* glad I did. Access to brake components just sucks @ the frame rail and clutters it up.
I know firewall mounted brakes aren't as pretty but if you just need it to work and be simple, Ebay will sell you a firewall brake kit for under $150 shipped.

[Coupeguy2001]

I used a Hydroboost unit and master I got from a 96 Chevy dually.
First, I cut off the master cylinder bore on the cast iron original master cylinder and used it for the pedal support.
Then I went to a metal fabricator and bought a piece of steelone foot long, 5 inches wide, 1/4 inch thick, and a piece of one inch flat stock that was 3/16 thick and 14 inches long.
I had the metal fabricator guy bend the big piece in a 90 degree angle, and on one side, drilled 4 3/8 holes and mounted it to the inside frame rail. On the other side of the piece of metal, I used a hole saw, and made the large hole for the hydroboost to go through, and the little 3/8 holes to mount it. Next, I drilled a 3/8 hole in each end of the strap piece, and bent the strap at each end to go from the frame to the outermost corner of the 90 degree metal piece. Then I just bolted everything together, and went to Ace Hardware and bought the rod and threaded the ends to work with the brake clevis and the booster.
I had to make hydraulic lines that went inside the frame rail on the left side to get the power steering fluid to and from the hydroboost unit. I made my own brake lines and what I couldn't make, I bought at o Reilly's.
I added the ten pound check valve for the rear brakes, and aadjustable pressure reducer, and a 2 PSI check valve for the front brakes. Started it up and after purging the air bubbles, hasn't quit on me in 5 years.

[mr48chev]

Chevyguyase showed the way to do it. Use the stock pedals, Build a bracket that moves the booster and mc back a bit for room and build an immensely strong but adjustable push rod.

The "only works with an automatic" is when you buy their bracket and pedal., They don't sell one with a clutch pedal.

If we ask nice he might show us some shots of the bracket he built and how he has the booster mounted.

[mr48chev]

Two main reasons for not going on the firewall. First firewall mounted boosters and master cylinders are just flat ugly clutter in and engine compartment . I didn't spend 400 bucks on finned aluminum to have the view blocked by ugliness. That and with the intake and 4 barrel on my 292 I have a clearance issue.,

Second is just as you saw in the photos it is a lot easier to hook up clutch linkage with the original pedals.

[mick53]

Would the problem be solved with a hydraulic T/O bearing?

[nvrdone]

I guess im just old because I dont understand what all the problem is about power brakes with a manual trans. MY booster and m/c are mounted under the floor.
Ive got a 327 with M21 4 spd in my '49, with power brakes.
I got a kit from POL that works great. Its BB T4755. Corvette m/c with prop valves. I got this kit because with adding 10 # check valves in both front & rear lines. I can still use the drum brakes front & rear until I convert to discs. The mounting bracket bolts to the stock bracket on the frame. Im using the stock brake & clutch pedal. The clutch linkage is the stock rod going forward to a dog leg on the clutch release arm. none of this micky mouse hydraulic throw out bearing stuff. just pure mechanical linkage. As far as clearance, I think the M21 is smaller than a slush box.
Admitedly it wasnt a perfect bolt in. I had to modify the brake pedal to get better pedal pressure. But it was worth the work. Also, POL was great to deal with

[mick53]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I guess im just old because I dont understand what all the problem is about power brakes with a manual trans. MY booster and m/c are mounted under the floor.
Ive got a 327 with M21 4 spd in my '49, with power brakes.
I got a kit from POL that works great. Its BB T4755. Corvette m/c with prop valves. I got this kit because with adding 10 # check valves in both front & rear lines. I can still use the drum brakes front & rear until I convert to discs. The mounting bracket bolts to the stock bracket on the frame. Im using the stock brake & clutch pedal. The clutch linkage is the stock rod going forward to a dog leg on the clutch release arm. none of this micky mouse hydraulic throw out bearing stuff. just pure mechanical linkage. As far as clearance, I think the M21 is smaller than a slush box.
Admitedly it wasnt a perfect bolt in. I had to modify the brake pedal to get better pedal pressure. But it was worth the work. Also, POL was great to deal with

I don't know about Micky mouse but certainly simple.

[nvrdone]

sorry, i'm just a fan of mechanical clutch linkages

[mick53]

IMHO if it works out I think mechanical is best. My problem is an 8" booster and 2 3" exhaust.