88 suburban lift kit

[Hobbs]

I have a specific question. I have a stock 88 suburban 7.4L 454
currently with 235/85/16 tires.

I want to improve the look and tire size. I do 80% of my driving on
paved roads. 20% on dirt, fairly well groomed, sometimes wet and muddy
hunting camp roads in Alabama. No extreme stuff at all.

What I am considering is lifting the body to accomidate an increase in
tire size. I like the look of the 285/75/16's I have seen on other
Suburbans.

My question: What type of lift do you suggest? How high do you think I
will have to go to clear those tires?

Thanks alot,

Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

The 235/85 tire is about 31.5" outside diameter. The 285/75 tire is about 32.5-33" (depends on manufacturer) outside diameter. The 285 tire is about 2" wider than the 235, about 11" or so.

Depending on the condition of your stock suspension, you should be able to get away with installing these tires with no lift. Especially since you're not doing any hardcore off roading, and probably not flexing the suspension much. Not much chance of stuffing a tire into the fender that way.

I'm not a big fan of body lifts. I don't like the gap they leave between the bumpers and the body.

Suspension lifts are so cheap for these trucks, I think that would be the way to go. By the time you end up doing the body lift, with all related hardware, you could end up at almost the same price. The cup washers for the body mounts aren't cheap, I had to pick up a few last year when I replaced my body mounts.

As a cheaper alternative to lift springs, you may want to check out http://www.offroaddesign.com/. Look into their "zero rate" lift blocks. They are 1" thick, can be stacked, and unlike other lift blocks, can be used on the front springs. They bolt into the spring pack, making them a part of the spring, and much safer than regular lift blocks. I used a set on my 87 when I did the 2" spring lift, to even up the rear of the truck. They worked out great!

Good luck with whatever you decide to do, and post some pics of the truck!

[Hobbs]

Thanks Bob. Sounds like good advice. Exactly what I was asking for.

I just got the car. Will get some "before" pics and post them.

Thanks again,

Hobbs

[special-K]

I put TuffCountry EZ-rides(4")all the way around on mine and it rides better than stock.I have 12.50x35s which are bigger than recommended,but work ok for my uses.With 285/75s on 8" rims,I`d do a 2".Either add-a-leafs,zero-rates,or 2" EZ-rides.I don`t recall if there`s a 2" shackle flip.I believe they`re just 4"or 6".

[Bob Gervais]

You can now get a 2.5" shackle flip from ORD as well. I was just reading about it this morning, I may end up doing that on my 87 to even out the rear.

[Hobbs]

Thanks everyone.

Hobbs

[JesEsterly]

[QUOTE=special-K]I put TuffCountry EZ-rides(4")all the way around QUOTE]
I'm getting ready to this exact same thing.. Ive talked to several people who have lifted their burbs, and for the money this was the best one.

[Hobbs]

I have looked at the tuff country web site regarding lifts. According to my vin number it is a R series Suburban 3/4 ton 2wd. Tuff country specifies 1967-87 suburbans or 1988-97 K1500/2500/3500. But no 1988 Suburban R series.

http://www.tuffcountry.com/suspension_gm.html


Do they make a sus. system for an 88 R series? Is there some correlation between R series and the K1500/2500/3500 ?

Thanks,

Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

My mistake above, I assumed you had a 4wd, because you were asking about lifts. Sorry!

The K series trucks are 4wd, and as far as I know, that's all Tuff Country makes lifts for. Of course, the rear leaf springs are the same dimensions as a 4wd, so you could use some rear lift springs on your 2wd.

A company called Fabtech makes lifts for some newer trucks, perhaps they have one for yours too. A Google search should yield some results for you.

[screwballl]

find some 31x10.50x16.. I was looking at those when i got tires for my R2500 burb but decided to stick with factory size as all my running is on roads here in lower alabama (FL panhandle)

[Bob Gervais]

I checked out Fabtech, and all they list is a 2wd lift for 1/2 tons. It includes new knuckles with relocated spindles to get the lift. Good idea, too bad they don't make it for the 8 lug trucks!

[Hobbs]

As I understand ya'll and from my research, it appears next to impossible to susp. lift my 2wd 3/4 ton, right?

What about body lift? I have been reading about those. Just to give a little clearance to a larger tire.

Hobbs

[Hobbs]

Screwballl,

Mobile in the houseeeeeeee.

Hobbs.

[screwballl]

Mobile? cool we go through there every now and then, usually going to NOLA or Biloxi... but not since Katrina...

i am sure someone makes a susp lift for the 3/4 tons but as theyre already higher then a standard 1/2 ton, it may be worth it to just get a wider tire with same height... body lift (say 2") may help some but I wouldn't think that it would be neccessary unless you're going for 33-35's.

[Hobbs]

33''-35'' is actually what I wanted.

I can't seem to get my finger on a consensus regarding body lifts. There seems to be a dislike with the pure off roaders, which I understand because it really does not seem to add to road clearance, ie off road performance. My concern is when I read about blocks and "hockey pucks" and unsafe references. Almost like body lifts are a poor mans susp. lift. I dont need to create more headaches. Admittedly this suspension/body lifting is new to me. My shade tree history is with rice rockets. I had a 85 300zx for a long time. Not alot of jacking those up.

What I want is to add some beefer tires. I like the BF Good. 285/75 alot of people around here have them. I like the look. This is a daily driver that 20% of the time will go to the hunting camp on dirt roads. At worst gullyed washed ruts, but nothing hardcore.

Anyway, any reasurance regarding body lifts and quality would be helpful. If I could get comfortable with a body lift, it would certainly be easier and cheaper.


Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

The main problem with body lifts is how much you lift it. The thicker the puck, the longer the bolt needs to be. Having the thicker pucks and longer bolts puts more of a shear load on the bolt (torque=force x distance), and makes, at least in my opinion, an unsafe assembly.

I would say if you keep the body lift to 2" or under you should be OK, especially since you're not offroading it or flexing the frame a lot.

You should measure for the tires first, to see how much clearance you'll actually need. Measure out from the center cap, using the radius of the proposed tire size. Rotate the tape around the wheel well, and see if the proposed tire would hit anywhere.

[Hobbs]

10-4.

Thanks.

Hobbs

[Hobbs]

Performance accessories seems to be a popular brand of body lift. Any other brand I should look at?


Hobbs

[Bob Gervais]

Not really sure, I've never bought or installed a body lift.

[screwballl]

if it really comes down to it, I am sure one of the local welding shops would fabricate soemthing from square stock if needed...