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Old 01-08-2010, 10:40 PM   #1
raveer2000
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Re: Fuel system design

My plan is (2) -8 that Y into a -10 line. Flow through a -10 log filter and into an aeromotive pump. From there it is -10 all the way up to the next TEE fitting into a barry grant regulator and -6 out to 2 edelbrock 500 carbs. At the for mentioned TEE it will run into a small inline regulator and then it-8 all the way back to the return. 2 regulators is overkill I know but I can't stand the thought of dead heading this pump I have. Total price right at about $700 not including the pump. That was for all the fitting, lines, filter, and second small regulator. Believe it or not EBAY had some great deals on fittings.
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:31 PM   #2
Tech @ BG
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Re: Fuel system design

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Originally Posted by raveer2000 View Post
My plan is (2) -8 that Y into a -10 line. Flow through a -10 log filter and into an aeromotive pump. From there it is -10 all the way up to the next TEE fitting into a barry grant regulator and -6 out to 2 edelbrock 500 carbs. At the for mentioned TEE it will run into a small inline regulator and then it-8 all the way back to the return. 2 regulators is overkill I know but I can't stand the thought of dead heading this pump I have. Total price right at about $700 not including the pump. That was for all the fitting, lines, filter, and second small regulator. Believe it or not EBAY had some great deals on fittings.
You may want to change the 2 -8's into the 10 and pull one of the existing 8's out and replace it with the correct size. I'm not sure what aero recommend for their pump but on ours we run 1 size larger to the pump then what is going forward so the pump does not cavitate.

The other issue with the 2 -8's is with a high volume pump there is the chance for it to run one of the 8's dry and cavitate the pump or even lean the engine out.
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Old 01-14-2010, 06:06 PM   #3
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Re: Fuel system design

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You may want to change the 2 -8's into the 10 and pull one of the existing 8's out and replace it with the correct size. I'm not sure what aero recommend for their pump but on ours we run 1 size larger to the pump then what is going forward so the pump does not cavitate.

The other issue with the 2 -8's is with a high volume pump there is the chance for it to run one of the 8's dry and cavitate the pump or even lean the engine out.
I was afraid of messing with the new fuel cell cause it has foam and all that in it. The fuel cell is sumped so it shouldn't ever run dry and its 20 gallon. If I'm wrong let me know, I would rather make adjustments now then after I tear up something.
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Old 01-15-2010, 12:09 PM   #4
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Re: Fuel system design

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I was afraid of messing with the new fuel cell cause it has foam and all that in it. The fuel cell is sumped so it shouldn't ever run dry and its 20 gallon. If I'm wrong let me know, I would rather make adjustments now then after I tear up something.
Would still change the fitting on it. You can take the foam out while you work on it. As mentioned when trying to run 2 smaller lines into a bigger one like that the restriction is still the smaller line and it does not give you more volume contrary to what you would think.
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Old 01-15-2010, 10:24 PM   #5
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Re: Fuel system design

Kinda crummy picture , but i sumped the tank in the Luv and went with aluminum tubing and compression type fittings to 2 old style fram can style filters to 2 Holley blue pumps to 2 Holley cheapy regulators . i used the factory steel line as the return back to the tank . The trick to get the cheap Holley ones not to creep is to restrict the returns with a carb jet . That's right , come off the return line with a brass fitting , tap the fitting to fit the smallest carb jet you got , take the jet and heat it with a propane torch and fill it with solder , take a small .015 index bit and drill through the solder . Now the regulator is not dead headed and won't creep , but you have no pressure loss from the return . i had the nitrous guy use his big 1-8 # gauge and flow everything . Never had a problem . Sprayed 250 this way . I have been told that a single blue pump is good for 500hp , N/A or N/A + N2O .
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Last edited by hotrod 80; 01-15-2010 at 10:24 PM. Reason: forgot the picture
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Old 01-18-2010, 12:15 PM   #6
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Re: Fuel system design

Good info ! I installed the Holley bypass regulator and return line on my truck last week. What's the issue with pressure creeping and under what conditions does it happen ?

I've noticed that my fuel pressure is more consistent than with the deadhead regulator.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:04 AM   #7
hotrod 80
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Re: Fuel system design

When you dead head the cheapie regulators that come with the pumps they creep up high . So if you use one on a Nitrous kit the shot starts out fat .
This is the kit i used X 2

the 12-803 with a very small orfice back to the tank will be steady as a rock and you won't be able to drop pressure as it will almost be deadheaded ,
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1949 5-window
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1976 Chevy Luv yellow
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1979 Firebird Flooded in Harvey
1999 F350 Dually
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My build :http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399148

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Last edited by hotrod 80; 01-19-2010 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:43 AM   #8
raveer2000
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Re: Fuel system design

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Originally Posted by Tech @ BG View Post
Would still change the fitting on it. You can take the foam out while you work on it. As mentioned when trying to run 2 smaller lines into a bigger one like that the restriction is still the smaller line and it does not give you more volume contrary to what you would think.
Well I looked closely at the fuel cell. It is not a plastic cell It is a RCI aluminum and the fitting are welded into the tank, so I cannot change it to a -10. Looks like I am stuck with 2 -8s
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