Header fitment advice

[carbon69]

Hey everybody...would just like to say this site has saved me many times through several builds. I know I haven't posted much, well practically not at all, but admit I visit here multiple times a day.

I'm at the point on my current build that I need to purchase some headers. A little about the current build;

1967 c10 swb step side, converted to 5 lug using 71 parts, 462 bbc, th400, POL tubular engine mounts moved to the forward set of holes on the frame rail, POL trans cross member, ece 4.5/6 drop and trailing arm crossmember, 20" ridler 695s.

The 462 bbc engine I built has sat for years, (still needing to be broke in) so I decided this truck would be the one. Getting a set of headers is the only thing holding me back. With the drop I'm needing as much clearance underneath as possible. I thought I was good ordering the hooker 2455s for a chevelle, but getting conflicting info. I do understand that it may be necessary to switch out my trans crossmember. Would I be better of finding a set of mid length chevelle headers instead, and if so which ones do you guys recommend??

Thanks in advance, pics to come

[70-Chevy]

I have a 496 and I ran the Hooker 2455's. Everything fit great and the headers only hang about 2" below the frame. I did swap out the tranny crossmember so I could keep the exhaust tucked in the frame rails.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2455-2HKR

[carbon69]

Thanks for the reply Chris, are you running the factory bbc stands and mounts moved to the forward set of holes?

[68bowtie]

I just installed Sanderson BB8’s. I had starter and th350 dust cover issues, but those could have been avoided with a clockable starter and a th400. They are a great fit and sit really high, made for lowered trucks.

[70-Chevy]

Originally Posted by carbon69

Thanks for the reply Chris, are you running the factory bbc stands and mounts moved to the forward set of holes?

Yes Sir. Factory BB stands, moved to forward holes.

[bigmac73]

[QUOTE=70-Chevy;8641070]I have a 496 and I ran the Hooker 2455's. Everything fit great and the headers only hang about 2" below the frame. I did swap out the tranny crossmember so I could keep the exhaust tucked in the frame rails.

Chris,
Just wanted to say Hello from Chesapeake, and that is one tough looking engine bay you got there.

[Mike C]

Chevelle mid-length headers will allow you to tuck the exhaust between the frame rails. 2 wheel drive headers hang way too low on a 67-72 IMO.

I am planning on running repro Corvette manifolds on my short step when I swap the L-36 427 in. That may require notching the frame as well as angle milling the manifold on at least one side. But will be worth it IMO.

[carbon69]

Chris, you don't have a picture handy showing how low the headers hang down, and where the collector ends up in relation to the transmission crossmember do you?

The bb8s as 68bowtie recommended look like a solid choice as well. I'd be curious to see a picture of the same(where the collector ends up that caused the issues outlined). It seems like a toss up. I'd like to not trim the frame rails if possible given the fact I have the wider ones before they changed in 68. The bb8s look like they would fit better in that aspect.

Many thanks to all that have replied thus far. I've checked out the build threads of everybody that has given their input. Awesome trucks guys!

[carbon69]

Just thought I'd throw a quick pic up of the truck.

[un4gvn!]

70-Chevy, I used that exact trans cross member with the same Hooker headers and 3" pipe all the way back to the bumper. I had to do a lot of modifications on the cross member to clear the exhaust. The openings were not far enough apart to clear the 3" exhaust. I called the fab place to see if they sent me the wrong one. They said it was universal. When I was done, it worked better than all the others. You might say, I have a collection of cross members, LOL.

[carbon69]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

70-Chevy, I used that exact trans cross member with the same Hooker headers and 3" pipe all the way back to the bumper. I had to do a lot of modifications on the cross member to clear the exhaust. The openings were not far enough apart to clear the 3" exhaust. I called the fab place to see if they sent me the wrong one. They said it was universal. When I was done, it worked better than all the others. You might say, I have a collection of cross members, LOL.

Do you have any pictures of the necessary mods on the crossmember, and could they have been avoided running a 2.5" exhaust?

[Rufas]

I would seriously consider shorty or mid length headers (not block huggers). Using the shorter header will allow you to keep the exhaust tucked up into the frame and more ground clearance up front. You might also need to go with a mini starter to help with clearances but well worth it.

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by carbon69

The bb8s as 68bowtie recommended look like a solid choice as well. I'd be curious to see a picture of the same(where the collector ends up that caused the issues outlined). It seems like a toss up. I'd like to not trim the frame rails if possible given the fact I have the wider ones before they changed in 68. The bb8s look like they would fit better in that aspect.

Passenger collector is well above the bottom of the frame, looks to be about 4-inches, which I would think would be enough room for an exhaust bend resulting in little or nothing below the frame. Tried to picture the starter solenoid and th350 dust cover flange conflicts here...

[70STOVEBOLT]

I used Hedman 68198 and had to use a tubular trans crossmember and I built a custom shift linkage with spherical rod ends and an aluminum tube I bought from Speedway Motors, along with a modified stock TH400 linkage bracket at the trans. I also drilled holes in the trailing arm crossmember to tuck the exhaust between the rails. No issues with fitment of headers with starter or control arms.