47-55.1 Wheel centered in opening ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

lgh1157 · 11-08-2019, 10:54 PM

Hey all

I think this looks pretty good

If it goes back an inch even I think it would would look a bit off

Let me know your thoughts

Thanks in advance

nvrdone · 11-08-2019, 11:08 PM

it looks abought right. but what suspension are you using? if its a leaf spring suspension, the center line may move forward as you add the weight of the engine etc to the front end.

**mongocanfly** · 11-08-2019, 11:12 PM

Looks good from here...

paintman · 11-09-2019, 09:36 AM

I feel your pain. This is the kind of stuff that just drives my OCD crazy. I would sit a look at this all day long if it were my truck.
Having said that............to me it looks like it could go back aa 64th of an inch.

**joedoh** · 11-09-2019, 10:06 AM

looks right now, also looks like and s10 or camaro clip. because of the angle the upper arms the wheels tend to pull rearward when the suspension is compressed. i would throw some weight on the front clip and see where you are at.

fender alignment looks right though, the front of the fender is in the right spot.

lgh1157 · 11-09-2019, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joedoh

looks right now, also looks like and s10 or camaro clip. because of the angle the upper arms the wheels tend to pull rearward when the suspension is compressed. i would throw some weight on the front clip and see where you are at.

fender alignment looks right though, the front of the fender is in the right spot.

Damn in blowing it Hahahaha
Totally forgot to say ..... it is a S10 frame
Thanks for all the advice / comments

Love this board
So much positivity here

mr48chev · 11-09-2019, 04:19 PM

I have to go with what Joedoe suggested. weight it down with the same weight as the engine and trans would be and see what it looks like.

When my buddy was sub framing a lot of trucks (he quit counting around 25) he would set the wheels about an inch forward so that they were centered when the suspension settled.

dsraven · 11-11-2019, 01:58 AM

another thing you can do is get the suspension down so the lower control arms are level to the ground (the normal ride height for the original unit the frame came from) and use threaded rod or another solid link type to capture the suspension in that position. remove the shocks and use threaded rod or square tubing etc in their spot. that way the ride height will be the same throughout the whole build until the rods are taken out. at that point you can drive it a bit and then adjust the springs after they are "broken in"
when I started my frame swap I first "pinned" the suspension on all 4 corners on the donor vehicle before the body or driveline was taken out. that way the suspension will be where it was engineered to be at ride height. when I am done the frame swap I will remove the links (square tubing in place of the shocks) and adjust the suspension with the total weight of the "new" vehicle sitting on the frame. the completed version will have full suspension travel like the original vehicle had instead of more "up" than 'down" travel depending on the weight of the new vehicle. wheel alignment will be easier because at ride height the suspension is sitting where it was engineered to be.
speaking of alignment, ensure the alignment on the donor frame is sorta right before you go setting the cab down and fabbing mounts. like alluded to earlier in the posts, the design of the suspension can move the axle center line forward or back as the suspension travels up and down. alignment adjustments can do the same thing. if you started out with an s10 frame that was not in an accident and was pretty close to being in alignment then you are prolly ok. a frame that was in an accident could require some tweeking and the axle centerline could be affected. better to find that out before doing a bunch of work on cab/fender placement. rake angle wanted compared to original rake angle intended for the donor frame can also affect the alignment. all good stuff to figure out before cab mounts.

MiraclePieCo · 11-11-2019, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joedoh

because of the angle the upper arms the wheels tend to pull rearward when the suspension is compressed. i would throw some weight on the front clip and see where you are at.

Joe is right. I can spot most S10 conversions a mile away cuz so many guys miss the wheel wells, probably due to this reason.

lgh1157 · 11-11-2019, 09:23 AM

I like what you guys are saying

Before I burn the mounts in, I’m gonna bag it
So I will revisit all this when the suspension is adjustable

11-08-2019, 10:54 PM	#1
lgh1157 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: atlanta GA Posts: 70	Wheel centered in opening ? Hey all I think this looks pretty good If it goes back an inch even I think it would would look a bit off Let me know your thoughts Thanks in advance Attached Images

11-08-2019, 11:08 PM	#2
nvrdone Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Moxee WA Posts: 1,425	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? it looks abought right. but what suspension are you using? if its a leaf spring suspension, the center line may move forward as you add the weight of the engine etc to the front end.

11-08-2019, 11:12 PM	#3
mongocanfly Post Whore Join Date: May 2015 Location: Alabama Posts: 14,582	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? Looks good from here... __________________ Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver

11-09-2019, 09:36 AM	#4
paintman Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: washington NJ Posts: 766	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? I feel your pain. This is the kind of stuff that just drives my OCD crazy. I would sit a look at this all day long if it were my truck. Having said that............to me it looks like it could go back aa 64th of an inch.

11-09-2019, 10:06 AM	#5
joedoh Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Doodah Kansas Posts: 7,747	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? looks right now, also looks like and s10 or camaro clip. because of the angle the upper arms the wheels tend to pull rearward when the suspension is compressed. i would throw some weight on the front clip and see where you are at. fender alignment looks right though, the front of the fender is in the right spot. __________________ the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393

11-09-2019, 04:19 PM	#7
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,279	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? I have to go with what Joedoe suggested. weight it down with the same weight as the engine and trans would be and see what it looks like. When my buddy was sub framing a lot of trucks (he quit counting around 25) he would set the wheels about an inch forward so that they were centered when the suspension settled. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

11-11-2019, 01:58 AM	#8
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,824	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? another thing you can do is get the suspension down so the lower control arms are level to the ground (the normal ride height for the original unit the frame came from) and use threaded rod or another solid link type to capture the suspension in that position. remove the shocks and use threaded rod or square tubing etc in their spot. that way the ride height will be the same throughout the whole build until the rods are taken out. at that point you can drive it a bit and then adjust the springs after they are "broken in" when I started my frame swap I first "pinned" the suspension on all 4 corners on the donor vehicle before the body or driveline was taken out. that way the suspension will be where it was engineered to be at ride height. when I am done the frame swap I will remove the links (square tubing in place of the shocks) and adjust the suspension with the total weight of the "new" vehicle sitting on the frame. the completed version will have full suspension travel like the original vehicle had instead of more "up" than 'down" travel depending on the weight of the new vehicle. wheel alignment will be easier because at ride height the suspension is sitting where it was engineered to be. speaking of alignment, ensure the alignment on the donor frame is sorta right before you go setting the cab down and fabbing mounts. like alluded to earlier in the posts, the design of the suspension can move the axle center line forward or back as the suspension travels up and down. alignment adjustments can do the same thing. if you started out with an s10 frame that was not in an accident and was pretty close to being in alignment then you are prolly ok. a frame that was in an accident could require some tweeking and the axle centerline could be affected. better to find that out before doing a bunch of work on cab/fender placement. rake angle wanted compared to original rake angle intended for the donor frame can also affect the alignment. all good stuff to figure out before cab mounts.

11-11-2019, 09:23 AM	#10
lgh1157 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: atlanta GA Posts: 70	Re: Wheel centered in opening ? I like what you guys are saying Before I burn the mounts in, I’m gonna bag it So I will revisit all this when the suspension is adjustable



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.