71 Chev SWB

[awhite4557]

That's what I thought, mcbassin the folks at CPP and Sanderson guaranteed me that the shorty headers I ordered would work with the CPP mounts. The drivers side fit perfect but the passengers side hit the top of the motormount perches. If you look at the photos, the CPP mounts turn upwards and rise about 2 inches above the frame rail height and that is the problem. If they would make them straight across like I modified them, the headers (and probably the factory manifolds) would have fit. I have the mounts in the rear holes which allowed everything to line up and bolt in, but the exhaust. The doug thorley headers may have fit without mofifying the mount but I could not be sure and didn't want to take a chance.

I took it to the muffler shop today and it sure sounds and runs good.

[awhite4557]

Almost done with the swap. I took it to an A/C shop this weekend. I decided to just use the factory A/C fittings instead of the fitting I got from docs blocks. I took it to ARA air conditioning and they made a new set of A/C hoses using the factory fittings at the compressor. I had to notch the frame some but it looks great. The A/C works better then it did with the pancake compressor, it gets the temp down to 30 degrees at the vent on high.

I ordered a turn signal lever with the cruise controls on it from Dakota Digital. When I get that installed this weekend, I will take final pics of everything and post a list of parts with the cost.

[mcbassin]

look forward to new pictures.

[awhite4557]

Well I am pretty much finished with this 5.3 swap. I got the LOKAR shifter installed and made a new mounting plate for the Dakota Digital gear sender and re-programmed the dash components to show the gears on the digital dash. I also got the Dakota Digital turn signal lever for the cruise control. I haven't got it working yet but it is installed. I am including the link for the post that Ackattack did for the cruise control hookup to simplify things in case someone needs the info. I am also including a Microsoft Word list of parts I used for this swap in case any one needs to know what I bought and used, including the total cost of the swap. I changed a lot of things on the engine that might have lasted a while, I just wanted to start off with a trouble free swap instead of waiting for something to break (hoses, idlers, belts, etc.)

The cruise did not work when I hooked it up but I have LED tail lights and I think I will have to install a relay switch to complete the ground curcuit for it to work properly. I will finish it when time allows. Right now, it is running fine and couldn't be happier with the end results.

Here's the link from Ackattack's post for the cruise control http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=398006

[awhite4557]

The cruise works. I swapped the LED tailights out with the original style bulbs and the cruise worked great. Thanks Ackattack for the info. I am going to install another relay in the tailight curcuit to correct the ground problem and put the LED lights back on.

[FLDBRED]

Great job! I love your project!

[awhite4557]

I finally got a chance to hook the relay up to the brake switch. I was able to re-install the LED tailights and everything worked great. I now have 3 relays just to make the cruise work, but it works great. This engine swap is complete and it runs and drives great. Here is the diagram I used for the relay for the LED tailights.

[lolife99]

Great build!
I love the LS swap.

If you were going to put a "total dollar amount" on just your swap to an LS style engine,... how much money would I need to do the exact swap that you did?.

[awhite4557]

It depends on the cost of the engine, the type of fuel system and the wiring and computer you go with. I used the factory wiring and had Speartech re-program and re-wire mine and I used the factory fuel tank. Here is a break down of the parts I used. My swap cost about $5,000.00.

[chapster]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

That's what I thought, mcbassin the folks at CPP and Sanderson guaranteed me that the shorty headers I ordered would work with the CPP mounts. The drivers side fit perfect but the passengers side hit the top of the motormount perches. If you look at the photos, the CPP mounts turn upwards and rise about 2 inches above the frame rail height and that is the problem. If they would make them straight across like I modified them, the headers (and probably the factory manifolds) would have fit. I have the mounts in the rear holes which allowed everything to line up and bolt in, but the exhaust. The doug thorley headers may have fit without mofifying the mount but I could not be sure and didn't want to take a chance.

I took it to the muffler shop today and it sure sounds and runs good.

Hey guy's,

I was reading your thread today and thought I would confirm that the Doug Thorley headers fit nice on my LS2 build useing CPP perches. I also drilled a new hole in the cross member further back and I welded up a nice embossed pad for the CPP mount to rest on.

Just sharing what worked for me.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

It depends on the cost of the engine, the type of fuel system and the wiring and computer you go with. I used the factory wiring and had Speartech re-program and re-wire mine and I used the factory fuel tank. Here is a break down of the parts I used. My swap cost about $5,000.00.

Thanks for the reply and the parts breakdown.

[awhite4557]

Originally Posted by chapster

Hey guy's,

I was reading your thread today and thought I would confirm that the Doug Thorley headers fit nice on my LS2 build useing CPP perches. I also drilled a new hole in the cross member further back and I welded up a nice embossed pad for the CPP mount to rest on.

Just sharing what worked for me.

I thought about using the Doug Thorley headers but read another post that listed that you have to use a Lokar dip stick and aftermarket plug wires. I saw a magazine article and even spoke to the rep at Sanderson who quoted the magazine article and they swore that the sanderson headers would fit with the CPP perches. However, the PU in the magazine article did not use the factory A/C compressor using adapter plates that were more forward on the engine and the CPP perches were in the front holes which would have allowed enough clearance for the headers to fit without modifications.

I didn't want to send the sanderson headers back and gamble on the doug thorley headers fitting with my adapter plates and perches. Thanks for the input though it may help someone else save some time and trouble.

If CPP would just make the perches with the top plate straight as I modified it, they would fit no matter which hole you use.

[late68]

To do this swap did you have to change any of the mounting areas in the frontend? Crossmember or trans mount? I know you have to replace with a diff set of motor mounts. Just wasnt 100% sure. I am planning on a 5.3 swap myself.

[awhite4557]

The engine mounts are in the rear factory set of holes on the top of the frame rails and I had to drill a new hole for the bottom of the mounts in the front crossmember. The transmission mount is factory and it is in the factory holes, no changes were made to the transmission mounts. I used the 72 rear trans mount and the drive line is factory with no modifications (used a 4L60E transmission)

[mcbassin]

How is your truck treating you with the new drivetrain? How many miles you put on it? What kinda mileage you getting?

[awhite4557]

I haven't had any major problems, just had to work a few bugs out. It runs and drives great and it averages about 16-17 mpg in town, I haven't had it out of town to check the highway mileage yet. It idles so smooth you can't tell it's running and has a tremendous amount of low end torque. I've put about 2,000 miles on it since the swap. I'm thinking about doing another LS1 swap for my 65 when I get around to doing a frame off for that truck.

[awhite4557]

I used the Russell Quick Disconnect Fuel Fittings when I installed the fuel lines in my 5.3 swap. I recently started my PU and the preasure line came off when the pump preasured up. The plastic retainer clip stayed on the fuel rail and the fitting came off spraying fuel all over my engine. Luckily, my engine was cold. If this had happened while I was driving, it could have caught fire. At first I thought the fitting just wasn't seated correctly and re-installed it. It re-installed fine and re-seated correctly and has not come off since but I added a zip-tie to ensure it doesn't come off. I was going to just replace the preasure fitting with a new one and when I checked the LS1 website, I came across a post listing this same problem. It appears this is becoming a common occurance with mostly the preasure side Russell quick Disconnect fitting. Here is a link to that post http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-fittings.html

As the link states, Russell has a new style fitting that will not come off. The fitting part numbers are 644120 (Summit #RUS644120) for the 3/8 preasure side and 644110 (Summit #RUS644110) for the 5/16 return line.

I called Summit and they did not have the part numbers in their system. They called Edelbrock and got the part numbers and they are in their computer system now but not on their internet catalog. I ordered both fittings and will replace the ones I have on now when the new ones come in, they were on back order and should be here in about a week. Here is a photo of the new fitting.

[mcbassin]

Thanks for the info about the QD fitting. I'm sure glad we didn't have to read that your engine went up in flames. I like the Idea of welding an AN bung on there to replace the fitting if possible.

[vortec67c10]

hey where did you get your intake from. i Have the k&n.. i just need the elbow and silicone. thanks

[awhite4557]

Originally Posted by vortec67c10

hey where did you get your intake from. i Have the k&n.. i just need the elbow and silicone. thanks

It is a Spectre Performance kit from O Reiley's Auto, part # Spectre 9900, cost was $139.00 for the entire kit. I bought the intake kit for the donor vehicle, a 2001 GMC Yukon. I had to reverse the tube and cut a few inches off to make it fit and build my own bracket to go from the tube to the engine block for support but it works great.

If you are looking for just the elbow and misc pieces, try this link http://intakehoses.com/

[mcbassin]

Couple of questions, Did you opt not to use the CPP tranny cross member? Do you know what set of holes you used to mount the factory Xmember? I am at the point of mounting mine and don't know which set of holes to use? Did you make adapter plates to connect the motor mounts? thanks

[awhite4557]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Couple of questions, Did you opt not to use the CPP tranny cross member? Do you know what set of holes you used to mount the factory Xmember? I am at the point of mounting mine and don't know which set of holes to use? Did you make adapter plates to connect the motor mounts? thanks

I decided to keep the factory trans crossmember and put it back in the factory holes, everything lined up and fit perfect including the drive shaft. I didn't make any adapter plates, I just had to modify the passenger side CPP perch mount so the headers would clear. Some say that the Doug Thorley headers fit without having to modify the CPP perches but I didn't want to have to change headers.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

I decided to keep the factory trans crossmember and put it back in the factory holes, everything lined up and fit perfect including the drive shaft. I didn't make any adapter plates, I just had to modify the passenger side CPP perch mount so the headers would clear. Some say that the Doug Thorley headers fit without having to modify the CPP perches but I didn't want to have to change headers.

Thanks, The thing is, there are like three sets of holes in my frame. I don't know which set the xmember should mount to. The frame was just a bare frame when I got it. I was hoping to mount it and then install the motor and trans. What kind of tranny mount did you use? one for our year models or 99 up? Sorry for all the questions. this is all foreign to me.

[awhite4557]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Thanks, The thing is, there are like three sets of holes in my frame. I don't know which set the xmember should mount to. The frame was just a bare frame when I got it. I was hoping to mount it and then install the motor and trans. What kind of tranny mount did you use? one for our year models or 99 up? Sorry for all the questions. this is all foreign to me.

I used the 71 rear trans mount from my turbo 350 trans and it bolted right up to the 4L60E transmission. That way I didn't have to modify anything on the trans crossmember. As far as which holes the trans crossmember is in, I'm not sure. I will look tomorrow and let you know.

[awhite4557]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Thanks, The thing is, there are like three sets of holes in my frame. I don't know which set the xmember should mount to. The frame was just a bare frame when I got it. I was hoping to mount it and then install the motor and trans. What kind of tranny mount did you use? one for our year models or 99 up? Sorry for all the questions. this is all foreign to me.

Here is a photo of my frame and trans mount. On mine, the front trans bolt is in the second bolt hole from the front of the truck. Hope this helps.