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Old 03-08-2021, 02:30 AM   #1
Accelo
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Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Well I should have taken the advice and just baked it and moved on, but I couldn't leave it well enough alone.
So below is a picture of the jack disassembled for powder coating.
One doesn't have to remove the lower drive gear but mine was loose so I removed it anyway. The top saddle has to come off to take the jack completely apart. I plan on replacing the dimpled tube with set screws to retain the saddle. I will make some replacement rivets for the base.
These jacks were made to be thrown out when their useful life is over as everything is crimped together.

When it is finished I will post pictures of the jack, jack handle and the lug wrench powder coated and ready to install.
Rick
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Last edited by Accelo; 03-08-2021 at 02:37 AM.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:49 AM   #2
Peanut74
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Well Accelo you like many of us have decided to go down that rabbit hole.

Are you going to do the powder coating or take it to a shop to have done?
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1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion)
1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk"
2012 Jeep JKU "Crush"
1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer)
1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:27 AM   #3
Accelo
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

I do it here.
I saved a bunch of funds doing it my self. Using used Eastwood gun and a homemade oven.
If it fits I powder coat it. I spray it outside so I only need a day with out rain and wind.
The largest item I have coated are the trailing arms for the rear of the truck and the inner fenders. I had to do one side at a time because they were my max size.
I started with a toaster oven. Amazing what you can do even with one.
Below is a picture of the hinge I restored.
Almost chrome is the color with black springs. I made a tool to expand the spring while it was being coated so I could get it all coated so it would look right with the hood open.
I am sure the cost of the powder, to do two hinges, was less than $5.
Rick
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Old 03-09-2021, 09:31 AM   #4
Peanut74
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

NICE, looks great. It also shows that if you prep the surface right powder coating will flex and not chip off the spring.
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1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion)
1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk"
2012 Jeep JKU "Crush"
1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer)
1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)
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Old 03-12-2021, 10:58 AM   #5
Accelo
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

I finished powder coating the jack and have attached some pictures. With the reproduction bag, for the handles, I should look nice. I made the special screws to reattach the base to the jack.
Rick
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Old 03-12-2021, 04:06 PM   #6
5025speed
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Just wondering what you do for prep, cleaning sandblasting etc. How big an oven do you have and is it homemade? Thanks
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Old 03-12-2021, 04:54 PM   #7
71CHEVYSHORTBED402
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Accelo View Post
I do it here.
I saved a bunch of funds doing it my self. Using used Eastwood gun and a homemade oven.
If it fits I powder coat it. I spray it outside so I only need a day with out rain and wind.
The largest item I have coated are the trailing arms for the rear of the truck and the inner fenders. I had to do one side at a time because they were my max size.
I started with a toaster oven. Amazing what you can do even with one.
Below is a picture of the hinge I restored.
Almost chrome is the color with black springs. I made a tool to expand the spring while it was being coated so I could get it all coated so it would look right with the hood open.
I am sure the cost of the powder, to do two hinges, was less than $5.
Rick
Looks great


The jack turned out nice too. Not sure how "I'm" finishing mine yet, but my finish guy will talk me into cold Cerakote
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71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring it from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s of OEM identifications and part numbers, all written in short order. 700+ images include assm, illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:17 AM   #8
Accelo
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

I don't recommend taking the jack apart. On can easily replicate the original paint much easier than how I did it.

I have a home made oven. It's fabricated out of an old commercial refrigerator.
I can do parts up to 5' if they aren't to big around. The longest parts I have coated was the trailing arms. The biggest were the inner fenders. I had to do one side at a time it was so tight.

Having a powder coat gun and an old stove can save a ton of money. Of course you will need compressed air source but it's the blast cabinet that costs.
Rick
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Old 03-15-2021, 09:53 PM   #9
Peanut74
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Jack turned out nice Accelo. Once you do powder coating and finding out how easy it is you want to powder coat everything.

For me I use an old kitchen stove. The biggest part I have done so far is my serpentine belt casting. It was such a tight fit I was worried about knocking off some of the powder.

As for surface prep I use a free standing sandblaster from Harbor Freight. For blast media I use play sand from Lowe's. It works good for the parts I have been blasting so far.
__________________
--------------------------------------------------------
1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion)
1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk"
2012 Jeep JKU "Crush"
1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer)
1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)
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Old 03-16-2021, 01:18 PM   #10
LT7A
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Re: Powder Coating a stock Jack. (When to quit)

Sometimes it's fun to get nose-distance away from a part and really dial it in. I can't afford the time to do that on everything, but there is a certain satisfaction that comes from it. I enjoyed seeing what you did here.
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