No key in ignition switch - should turn signals still work?

[Gregski]

On my 1971 GMC I can pull the key out of the ignition switch and my left and right turn signals will still function, is that how they are supposed to be, or do I have some wires that were crossed sort of speak?

1971 GMC 1500
SBC 350 / TH350
2WD
short box

[Dead Parrot]

Pretty sure that the turn signals are not supposed to work when the key is off and out. But the emergency flashers should.

Is it possible the key switch is worn to the point that it is letting you pull the key with it still partially in the run position?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Gregski

On my 1971 GMC I can pull the key out of the ignition switch and my left and right turn signals will still function, is that how they are supposed to be, or do I have some wires that were crossed sort of speak?

1971 GMC 1500
SBC 350 / TH350
2WD
short box

I have detailed many times how the turn signals get their power but it never hurts to do it again.
Their is a 12 gauge brown wire on the key switch Accessory terminal that is powered whenever the key switch is on or in the accessory position.
This brown wire goes to the fuse panel and it powers the turn signals, the wipers, the heater switch, and the backup light fuses.

If your turn signals are working with the key off, then you are getting power to these circuits from another source. These other circuits should also be working with the key off.

Your key switch plug may be shorting between the red power wire and the brown accessory wire. The key switch itself could be shorting internally.

There could be a connection between the red wires in the fuse panel and any of the fuses the brown wire powers.

The orange wire which is hot, powered by the red wire at the fuse panel could be shorting to any of the fuses in the fuse panel.

Any of the above conditions would cause a battery drain with the key off and should not take long to drain it nor would they be hard to discover.

One thing that would not cause any of the above conditions would be a short in the turn signal switch between the hazard wiring and the turn signal wiring
whenever the turn signal was selected.

The hazard switch is powered by a brown wire in the center of the turn signal plug on the column. It is hot all the time and it is next to the purple wire for the regular turn signals.

If there is a short in the TS switch, when the signal lever is put in either turn position it may be connecting the hot brown wire and the purple wire. This would make the turn signals work, but the other circuits would be powered and the wipers and heater should work with the turn signals.

here's the brown wire from the key switch shown by the black arrows.





this one shows the fuse panel in the lower right of the diagram. You can see the fuses powered by the brown wire from the key switch and the fuses powered by the constant hot red wire. The pink wire is hot with the key on and it powers the cluster panel fuses. The orange wires and fuses are powered by the red wire and they power the brake light switch, the hazard switch, the dome light fuse and light, and the headlight switch.

Most people think the parking lights and cluster lights are powered by the large red wire to the headlight switch, but all it powers is the head lights via the dimmer switch.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

I have detailed many times how the turn signals get their power but it never hurts to do it again.

Brother I can't thank you enough, and I don't even know where to start, but I will share some feedback. First of all I know that sometimes we get caught up in fixin' our rigs and we don't search the forums properly or read everything and just want an answer, that's what I am greatful you re posted what you have said... much appreciated

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Your key switch plug may be shorting between the red power wire and the brown accessory wire. The key switch itself could be shorting internally.

BINGO, that gave me the idea of disconnecting the ignition switch plug completely, and testing, so I went to turn on the turn signals with the plug disconnected and no more turn signals, aha... it has to be the switch

Add to the fact that I could not turn the key to the Auxilary position and that I was able to remove it from the cylinder in any position and I think we found the smoking gun.

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Any of the above conditions would cause a battery drain with the key off and should not take long to drain it nor would they be hard to discover.

DOUBLE BINGO (if there is such a thing, lol) my battery would go completely dead after a couple days and I started disconnecting one of the battery terminals every time I drove the truck.

[Gregski]

so in order to fix my problem, luckily I had two ignition switches, the one that came with my truck was Made In The USA but I had no key for it so originally it went on the shelf, the generic one had a key so I used it, but it was totally worn out, it got me by for a while, until I decided to fix the turn signal issue and the draining of the battery ...

your advise led me to take the USA switch to the local locksmith and for $34 bucks had it rekeyed to match the door locks, since I learned that the 67-72 trucks only had one key for both - and I like that so BONUS!

Now my USA ignition switch works like a Champ, I can turn it to the left into the Auxilary position and it won't come out in any position but the Off spot, so good so far

I also tested my turn signals now and they no longer come on without the key in the ignition

I thank you all very much for reading and your help.

Generic Switch on the left, USA one on the Right

[El Dorado Jim]

Vette is the man