1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!

[gigamanx]

I'm a bit worried about the butt joint too. The inside diameter section was a pain in the ass to get the welder in there. I tried turning up the gas and arcing further away so hopefully that was enough to close it all up. Time will tell. It's not like this thing is going to be running eco friendly but I'd rather not have exhaust fumes slowly building under the cab. That reminds me, I've got holes to fill in the cab haha.

[JSavoie]

I found this video on YouTube that gives tips on welding such hard to reach places:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWOAP74Zd_Q

gigamanx the way you did it is explained too. See around 4:55 minutes into the video

[99 to Life]

good video, I'v seen his stuff bf. I would take a wire brush and clean around your welds, if you see pinholes fill them in. With butt welding thin stuff. wire speed and heat are def a factor, but.... what I do is tacks to create the bead, kinda like what joedoh is saying. One little trick is to weld off the previous weld. If you try and start a new tack or bead solely with the say sheetmetal or exhaust it will burn through much easier bc that is thinnner. the weld you are putting on there is thicker and stronger than the thin metal. So it can take the heat more. You also got to get a feel for pulsing I would call it. When you tack and just as the red cools hit it again and again. the heat from the tack weld will melt the new metal more. So... you don't have to crank up your welder temp. IF you let the tack cool too much your next tack won't pen or sink in as much, so its a matter of perfect timing. I like to push the the gun toward the tack to really get the metal to push in and lay flat. Too much build up ontop of your weld is lack of pen, too much wire, not enough heat and so forth. You can also try and drag your tack from left to right, just a snippet. Or just go straight at it works but if you get a little drag in there it spreads the weld out flatter.

[gigamanx]

I took the collector off and am tacking some areas again to make sure there are no pin holes. Thanks for the suggestion.

Shiny bits arrived today too! I liked the clean metal so much I just clear coated right over it to stop rust. 55 1/8" custom built driveshaft for me. $264.00 I thought wasn't bad. It really paid off when I put it on the truck to test fit and it slipped right into place like butter.

Oh, I also got a pair of Firestone 2600 bags and a pair of F9000 sleeves for $75 off a local guy. STEAL!

[99 to Life]

DS looks nice, and yes super steal on the bags.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I took the collector off and am tacking some areas again to make sure there are no pin holes. Thanks for the suggestion.

Shiny bits arrived today too! I liked the clean metal so much I just clear coated right over it to stop rust. 55 1/8" custom built driveshaft for me. $264.00 I thought wasn't bad. It really paid off when I put it on the truck to test fit and it slipped right into place like butter.

Oh, I also got a pair of Firestone 2600 bags and a pair of F9000 sleeves for $75 off a local guy. STEAL!

Where did you order the drive shaft from? That's a killer price. Local shop where I am wants $500+ for one.

[joedoh]

thats a good deal on the bags and on the driveshaft.

the driveshaft shop here is a bunch of thieves, they quote a price over the phone then double it when you show up. they have done it to me twice, I will never patronize them again. I use inland truck parts to shorten driveshafts now, they call my stuff "popsicle sticks" and "toothpicks" because its a national big truck/semi chain and my stuff is tiny.

[gigamanx]

I got the shaft from MShar Powertrain in Harrisburg, PA. Tom is the guy that owns it and did a fantastic job. I did have a small issue where he thought I did not want a slip yoke on the transmission end. Thankfully, I thought ahead and brought my S10 2 piece driveshaft. In about 2 minutes he had it swapped over. Amazing what can be done with the right tools. 3" tubing. He just needed the length yoke to yoke. Quoted me $75 to shorten an existing one if I found a donor.

Also, updated Page 1 with my October one year in review post. I was actually able to sit in the truck again and imagine myself cruising down the road. I might have done it two or three times this weekend just getting that smile on my face and renewing the energy to keep building. Thanks to everyone who has read, reviewed, critiqued, and suggested over the last year. I've learned so much from you all.

[gigamanx]

A few steps back this weekend after getting some parts in.

Got the right power steering pump for the bracket. It had to be one with the offset cap. I had two Saginaw push on style ones and neither of them fit because of the standard cap (looks like a pear). So, bracket went on only to find the lower fluid tube smacks right into the driver side engine mount. ugh. I need about an inch cut out of the engine mount to give the steering tube some clearance.

Moved onto steering. Got my 3/4" plated steering shaft and 3/4 x 3/4 borgeson joint. The joint is too small to fit over the steering column end and the steering shaft at 3/4 is too small to mate with the S10 slip shaft end. Not sure what to do next.

Also on steering, went and grabbed a 2" U exhaust bracket to hold the steering column under the dash. I saw a few other builds that used this trick. 2" was 1/2" diameter too narrow to use the existing holes under the dash. Back to the store

Can't seem to find anyone that sells the radiator bushing/pad for an aftermarket universal 19x22. The radiator is thicker than the original S10 radiator, so I can't use those ones.

This picture of the radiator hangers is from the S10 build thread, but I couldn't find details on what was used for the top or bottom of the radiator. Maybe @skymangs has a suggestion?



Went to start fabricating the accelerator pedal and realized I have no idea how it connects to the carburetor. Is it a cable? I kept the S10 cable from the other cab, but it seems like there should be a bracket on the carburetor to hold the cable housing.

Went to position the accelerator and brake pedal and realized the brake pedal is on the left side of the steering column. It feels super awkward for it to be over there. How do you guys solve that problem? Just cut the brake pedal arm and add a horizontal piece to move it over?

Edit: Here's a picture that makes sense to me on the cable position and pedal position. What is odd to me, however, is that with the pedals in this position I feel like I'm sitting to one side of the steering column. I guess I'm used to the natural position of the foot to be to the right of the steering column for both pedals.



I've made a lot of progress these past few months and deliberately skipped many details that I could "work out later." Well, the devil is in the details.

[99 to Life]

the details always get overlooked on time and money. i'd get your column in there and see right where you want the pedals and your steering wheel height (distance off dash) with your seat in place. Your gas pedal seems like it could go more to the right. But.... you kinda want to keep it as inline with carb throttle as much as possible. There is a bracket that bolts to the carb that your throttle cable attaches to, for a manual its simple, for an auto you need a bracket that accommodates the kickdown cable. For the brake. Yes I'd cut the pedal and put a spacer on it to move it over. Make sure you weld it up real good.

[joedoh]

here ya go.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Radiat...ware,3556.html

I think this is mentioned in the swap thread, but if its not I know I got the info here. that is for the 19x22 speedway radiator.

on the carb linkage, your 2.8 TBI bracket should fit the carb or intake somehow and so should the bellcrank, so you can use the stock gas pedal and kickdown cables


I here you on progress, easy to do big, satisfying and relatively easy parts, but all the small things, thats where the time adds up.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

For the brake. Yes I'd cut the pedal and put a spacer on it to move it over. Make sure you weld it up real good.

Do you happen to have a picture of what this looks like when done? I'm afraid of hacking into the brake pedal arm without planning it out.

Originally Posted by joedoe

I think this is mentioned in the swap thread, but if its not I know I got the info here

I'm actually looking the for rubber that goes between the radiator and these brackets. I ordered a set of 1976-1982 Corvette C3 rubber pads to see if they fit. 2 5/8" sounds pretty good. I'll still order the brackets since I was going to make some of my own. Save me a little time for $15 bucks!

[99 to Life]

my pedal ended up being a mess. It had aluminum backing that didn't line up with booster, so I had to make and adapter plate. 2nd, I had to put a 1" or so spacer in it bc I moved my steering over to the left. 3rd I made a whole new lower arm outta some 3/8 plate. I shoulda just bought a diff pedal assembly. I'v used full size truck pedals and they work the best so far.

[joedoh]

for rubber use old inner tube or even an old bike tire.

look what I had on the shelf.
IMG_7386 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

[gigamanx]

Good idea on the rubber. I didn't know if I had to use a special kind to handle heat. I'm sure the set of brackets you found will end up on a project soon. I just ordered mine today.

[joedoh]

I actually ordered them for a 19x22 the first time I read skymangs how-to. but I like keeping the stock s10 rad if I can, it is sized to the motor and has a trans cooler in it, so I sold the 19x22 to a friend and forgot about the brackets till you said something.

I dont think you need rubber at all, but if you use some it doesnt get really hot, 220 degrees is about the max. I think the solder in a brass radiator would melt out before a bike tube got hurt.

[gigamanx]

I now have the same brackets! Radiator work this evening probably. This weekend was playing with the steering shaft. I have a post about that here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=748573

In other great news, I am pretty much done on the accessory drive and steering pump. A bit of cutting and grinding and it all buttoned up. I am waiting on the water pump pulley since I needed the smaller diameter one. Then I'll measure the route for the serpentine belt and get one ordered.



I was also able to play with pedal position and after making a base plate as suggested by the S10 build thread for the accelerator pedal, mine are almost exactly in line with the picture here:



Even more good news, by mounting the accelerator pedal about an inch higher than I expected, the bracket lines up with the old vacuum tube inlet for the wipers. That hole in the firewall happens to be the perfect size for the plastic grommet from the S10 throttle cable After testing the pedals, I'm actually pretty happy with where they sit. I'd love to move the seat back some since I'm a bit crunched up, but I think that's just what it feels like driving an old truck.

Finally, last week I scored a 1950 Chevy fleetline deluxe steering wheel for $90 off ebay. Fit perfectly in the steering column. I still have to figure out how the horn is connected and wired up. It's just a bunch of plates and bolts right now with no instructions. Its minus the horn trim ring which I'm hoping was optional to the button in the center.

[OutlawDrifter]

Making some good progress!

[99 to Life]

as much as I luv all the stock interior parts to these trucks. I do like seeing a cool steering wheel. I really like that one.

[gigamanx]

I have a picture in my mind of what a classic car looks like. Maybe from Daniel-San driving around in Karate Kid. The big horn ring and big wheel always sticks out as do colors of off-white and cream and pastel paint jobs.

[gigamanx]

I've spent a couple of weeks, ok a few days based on my previous post, just doing lots of small things without feeling as though I had made much progress. After 2 solid hours this evening, all those little steps came to fruition one after another:

Steering column and joints installed
Brakes bolted and attached
Accelerator pedal installed
Fuel pump installed
Radiator core brackets installed

Wow, I am actually ready to do a little wiring and start this girl up!

[99 to Life]

nice job, all those little things add up and its sure nice to knock them off the list

[gigamanx]

Got another hour in last night and I have one wire left before I can turn the engine over again. I can barely sit at work just waiting to get in tonight haha. Making my shopping list for the next steps too...accessory drive and radiator hookup.

With the pedals assembled, I did notice they are a bit too high for me. I feel like I'm really arching my foot to rest them on the accelerator and brake. Anybody extend the arms on them to give yourself a better ankle angle? I don't want them any closer to the firewall because that would limit motion on the pedals. Maybe just closer to the floor.

[99 to Life]

you could heat and bend the bottom portion of the gas pedal, and or cut and reweld it to change the angle. and or is your seat height exactly where you want it?

[gigamanx]

Good question about the seat. I'm using the stock 49 seat and mount. Most people seem to dislike it, but I am using what I've got for now.