1967 step side build!

[raggedjim]

Nice work, it shows how much you can get done if you just stick with it.

Good luck, Rg

[TXgearhead67]

more repair photos

[TXgearhead67]

Getting closer to installing cowl panel.

[TXgearhead67]

So I seam sealed all overlaps and welds where the cowl would cover. Then I used a Dulpi-color rust barrier coating to seal and protect under the cowl. I liked this product as it rolled and brushed out easy.

[TXgearhead67]

While I was replacing the roof skin I welded the roof seam up solid. I also shaved the gutters off. I shaped a piece of 1/4" RB around doors for a small rain diverter. I've seen others do that and liked it. Its hard to see in the pics but I think once its body worked its going to look good.

[68Gold/white]

Wow, wow, AND Wow....a lot of work!!!!

Show us a closer picture of the gutter replacement trim, you added.

I've read comments on lots of builds here, that say, Oh, I've seen worse repaired! I'm not sure you'll get many of those words on your build!!!

[Jiggers72-GMC]

WOW, nice work on the cab rust & all, I ordered a California cab today for my 71 stepper, I'm not going thru all that ......... I can't weld, I'll wait here & watch you work if that's ok
cute dog

[Jiggers72-GMC]

WOW, it really turned out nice, maybe you're being too fussy on the cab corners but it's up to you,
can you tell me what black product you used inside on the floor for a rust barrier/inhibitor ???
thx Gerry
ps: the gas cap door turned out great.

[BigBird05]

Looks great. Thanks for including the detailed pictures of your filler neck. I am planning the exact same thing. I have a suburban filler neck and sheet metal or I can go with a filler neck and sheet metal from a 86 C-10 left hand side filler. What way do you think would look better.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Looks great. Thanks for including the detailed pictures of your filler neck. I am planning the exact same thing. I have a suburban filler neck and sheet metal or I can go with a filler neck and sheet metal from a 86 C-10 left hand side filler. What way do you think would look better.

Thank you. I personally like the look of the round filler door on our trucks. Early in this thread I think it was 67chevyredneck posted a pic of his truck with a later model fuel door. It looked good and was round. Let us know how it turns out.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by Jiggers72-GMC

WOW, it really turned out nice, maybe you're being too fussy on the cab corners but it's up to you,
can you tell me what black product you used inside on the floor for a rust barrier/inhibitor ???
thx Gerry
ps: the gas cap door turned out great.

Thanks. I used the Duplicate-color rust barrier on the cab floor and underside. It seems pretty durable as far as getting scratched and scuffed.

[aggie91]

Looks great! Personally, I would have run the rust block all the way up the firewall to the bottom of the windshield. But if the DTM you used is good stuff and there was not surface rust in that area, you should be good.

Great progress on the cab! My son just got his cab in epoxy too this past weekend.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Looks great! Personally, I would have run the rust block all the way up the firewall to the bottom of the windshield. But if the DTM you used is good stuff and there was not surface rust in that area, you should be good.

Great progress on the cab! My son just got his cab in epoxy too this past weekend.

I think I’m going to take it up further. I have a vibrosolution sound deadening kit already that I’m going to run up to the window. Hey I was just up there in Longview yesterday getting paint samples for the truck. Small world.

[KevinK7]

All I can say is Wow!, ...and you say you're "not a pro". This is some AMAZING work for sure. No doubt these projects take time (especially with this little thing called 'life' along the way).
Truly incredible work and attention to detail. Kudos to you for continually pushing ahead, you should be proud, and as far as I'm concerned you're doing some serious "pro" work
Thanks for posting all the pics, looking forward to seeing this truck as it evolves.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

This thread needs a like button

[TXgearhead67]

Thanks fellas. Its a work in progress but were getting there.

[TXgearhead67]

I'm continuing my efforts of bringing this thread up to date. One of the first things I did when I started this truck was to build the rear end. I converted it to 5 lug axles, added a Eaton posi, and replaced all the bearings and seals. I used the existing 3:73 gears. I sand blasted the housing and rattle can primered and painted it. It looked good but didn't last. About 2 years after it was together I noticed rust starting to creep through the paint. So I dismantled the rear end and had it powder coated gloss black. Reassembled with a freshly powder coated silver rear end cover and SS ARP bolts.

[TXgearhead67]

I knew from the initial purchase of the '67 that I wanted fuel injection. The plan is to run a Holley Sniper. I bought my Boyds fuel tank with an Aeromotive 340 pump. I ran 3/8" SS hard line supply and return line. This was my first try at bending SS line. It's a little tricky. I broke my first tubing bender after the SS proved to tough for it. Replaced it with a Rigid brand dedicated 3/8" bender. It was a game changer, so much better. I bought a flare tool from Eastwood which I could've probably done without but the tool itself worked good. I only ended up making two flares in the whole system. I used Earls Ultra Pro flex PTFE hose and fittings where I needed flex. At the front of the frame I made a bracket to hold and terminate the hard line. I'm going to route flex line from Sniper to hard line. I also used SS line clamps and bolts with nylon lock nuts to secure to the frame.

[TXgearhead67]

The purist are going to hate me. I didn't want the E brake assembly hanging under the dash. So I got a E STOPP electric emergency brake box. You have a button that activates and deactivates the brake. I got the rear drum cables from Lokar. I think I'm going to hide the button in the glovebox.

[68Gold/white]

So Jason, are the Lokar brake cables specially made for this E-brake device? I noticed both cables there on that one side.
The thing I'd like most, is not having to worry about the routing of the cables, the cables and exhaust getting in the way of each other....

[TXgearhead67]

The cables are a universal fit for drums. They come way long and you cut them to the length you want. Their long enough I was able to route them on the frame and cross on the trailing arm bracket. Their a nice product. So is the E Stopp control. I seen it on Kindig Design website. It’s also going to double as a anti theft device. Who would look for a button to release the brakes? Lol I plan on putting a kill switch on the fuel side as well for theft.

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by TXgearhead67

The cables are a universal fit for drums. They come way long and you cut them to the length you want. Their long enough I was able to route them on the frame and cross on the trailing arm bracket. Their a nice product. So is the E Stopp control. I seen it on Kindig Design website. It’s also going to double as a anti theft device. Who would look for a button to release the brakes? Lol I plan on putting a kill switch on the fuel side as well for theft.

I am liking this E Stopp device, and of course anything that will double as an anti-theft mechanism is a bonus. If Kindig Design is using it, it must be a good product. I have not seen him do anything 'cheap.

Thanks TXgearhead. BTW, I am a Texas native (born in Dallas) living in GA. I have been by Carthage many times. I love East Texas!

Cheers!

[Jason Banks]

Looks amazing. I was looking for pictures of how people rant their fuel lines with a Boyd's tank the other day, and I couldn't find any. Thank for posting. I've been thinking about doing the power parking brake also.

Do your headers hang so low, you decided to not run the exhaust through the crossmember?

[TXgearhead67]

With the H pipe Flowmaster provides in the kit it’s made to go under the crossmember. With the aftermarket crossmember with exhaust provision I didn’t have the bends I needed to go up and through it. The headers were fine not to low or anything. In hindsight I should have just got a couple more bends and went through it. I think it’ll be ok. If when I get it out of the garage and see their too low I’ll fix it. Thanks for the response bud.

[cab4word67]

Just finished my 67 for its second life, my "Avatar" is its first 40years of life though it didn't receive the nice paint until 20 years ago. But it raised a family and drove back and forth to the bay area many times.
, went with Vision wheels