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05-26-2011, 04:22 PM | #1 |
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Location: Hagerstown, MD
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Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Hey Folks...I too recently had to replace the carrier bearing on my driveshaft. It was only two years old and broke at the mount. The bearing was still fine and it still looked new.
I discovered that there were two different carriers depending on the truck. The one I used was the round type that looked like it provided little to no support if any! So my questions are: 1) Could I use the better/stronger half moon type carrier in place of the hanging round one? What modifications would have to be done to do this? 2) I was thinking of ditching the two piece DS for a one-piece that I would have made to hold up to the BB motor. Would the undercab cross frame have to be replaced or altered because of the size of the hole for the DS...keeping in mind that I would be going with a larger diameter DS. 3) What have you all done to solve this "weak link?" Comments and/or suggestions please!!! Have a great Memorial Day Weekend! FREEDOM IS NOT FREE!!!
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 |
05-26-2011, 04:38 PM | #2 |
Six in a row makes it go...
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
I have no experience with this one, but I was thinking of trying it out:
http://www.iedls.com/Center-Support-...Difference.asp
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
05-26-2011, 04:47 PM | #3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
with a SWB, you'll have no problems with a one piece shaft.
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05-26-2011, 04:51 PM | #4 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
I've been running that Inland Empire Driveline support for several years now. Keep eating the aftermarket supports, even with a rebuilt and balanced drive shaft. Bearing was fine, just tore up the bracket.
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1972 C10 SWB, Air, PS, PB, 350/350THM. Second owner. 1965 Corvette roadster, 44K miles, 327/365 SHP, 4 speed, side exhaust, knockoffs, teak, second owner (bought in 1970), Have ALL numbers matching components. My frame off restoration thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556703 |
05-26-2011, 07:00 PM | #5 | ||
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
The question is will the stock DS for a 307 motor hold up to 450HP even with the heavy duty center support? Quote:
What do you think?
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 Last edited by Ole Greenie; 05-26-2011 at 07:56 PM. |
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05-26-2011, 07:08 PM | #6 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
x 2. Been there, done that.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
05-26-2011, 07:21 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
if you don't have slicks, then a stock one piece, or even a stock 2 piece will hold up. The carrier bearing that you get from the parts store is junk, the ones from a drive shaft shop are generally better. I have no first hand knowledge on the one you are dealing with since I've only had one 1/2 ton and it had a one piece shaft.
There's no reason to get a large diameter 1000 HP proof shaft if you don't even have half that. Plus, there's the fact that horse power doesn't damage the shaft, torque does. A normal steel shaft is all you need unless you have wide slicks out back. |
05-26-2011, 07:21 PM | #8 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Yea...If I only hed the later style support mount with that crossmember!!!
the pass thru hole in the CM is considerably larger than mine. Mine is half that big! (I looked at the pictures in your build thread.) Yours is a 72 which uses the newer style support and cross member. The 70 and earlier trucks (mine is a 70) have the old style DS support with a much smaller diameter hole for the DS.
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 |
05-26-2011, 07:56 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
Completely correct...torque is the culprit. Thanks for the realignment It is just that there is no price difference between a "beefier" one and one used in racing applications. So, I figure I might as well go for a stronger designed DS. This is what I wanted to hear. I would have hated to grind all those rivets off to change the CM. That would have been a PITA. The only issue I have now is...I hope the shorten job that was done to the front half of the DS when it was changed from a three-speed manual to a 700R4 will hold up as well. Heck, if it breaks...it breaks! Thanks all for the help!
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 |
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05-26-2011, 08:26 PM | #10 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Here is a thread with a larger one-piece DS and the clearance issues associated for those of us running the older style crossmember and "hanging" 2-piece DS support
Thanks to USMCChevy! Go Army...Beat Navy!!!
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 |
05-26-2011, 08:38 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
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05-26-2011, 08:58 PM | #12 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
I am running a two piece large drive shaft with the stock heavier duty carrier bearing from a '67 3/4 ton truck behind my 454 with a old style 4 speed and it works just fine.
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05-26-2011, 09:15 PM | #13 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
my 72 3/4 ton burb has the same crossmember as in the photo above, it does have the horse shoe style bearing though. Both my one ton and my old 3/4 ton longhorns had this style too. Like I said, I've never had to deal with the one being discussed on here.
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05-26-2011, 10:46 PM | #14 | |
the boat guy
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
I'm running a 3" 1310 driveshaft I made in my truck. I'm a pro not for the do it yourselfer. yyou can ad some steel support to the stock style carrier bearing, we do it all of the time. No way would I ever throw down the coin for a billet carrier bearing.
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05-26-2011, 10:59 PM | #15 |
the boat guy
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
just for reference on how much hp a ds can take we build our stock car shafts out of 2" .083 wall dom tubing and drill a 1.25" hole through the 1310 endyokes. These guys are making over 500 hp. That's the same size tube, yokes and ujoints these trucks use stock.
the length is why a drivehaft needs to be a larger diameter. aluminum shafts for racing is like aluminum rods ffor racing they must be replaced periodicaly and are usually made of about double wall thickness as steel making for minimal advantage. I've heard reference to hd driveshafts. What does this mean, I have been building driveshafts for a few years. Alot of people think thicker tubing is better, but it makes a shaft more likely to fail from high rpm. |
05-27-2011, 12:24 AM | #16 | |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
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05-27-2011, 06:39 AM | #17 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
I had the same problem, I changed to the "carrage style" bearing and had held up good so far. cpp sell the kit http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...Truck/CSBC.htm
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05-27-2011, 11:48 AM | #18 | |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
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John Paap Ole Greenie Hagerstown, MD My Mistress 70 CST Short/Step LS 5.3/4L65E New motor install Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667773 |
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05-27-2011, 03:37 PM | #19 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
I have a swb and have trashed several carrier bearings. I changed it out for a one-piece made at the local machine shop and haven't had any problems. Mine's factory ride height and has a 700r4, so now the one-piece is pretty short but works great.
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Rich 1970 C/10 Step, 383/700R4 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=466601 |
05-27-2011, 10:58 PM | #20 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Mine also broke. I think that's why my rear wheels locked up when I had my blowout. Maybe the d-shaft got into a bind. Oh well. That's beside the point. I took mine, MIG welded it back together, then welded some 1/8" flat bar to the sides of it and made it kinda triangulated. I then proceeded to take it out and hammer on the throttle, dump the clutch, you know, TRY to break it. So far, it's held up. So, just try beefing it up a bit if you have a welder. Be careful not to catch the rubber on fire though.
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-1967 Chevrolet Fleetside LWB- 350 V8 w/thumpr cam, NV3500, 3.08 gears, A/C, PS -1983 Chevy Silverado C1500- 383 stroker, TH400 -1989 Chevy Silverado K1500 SWB- 5.3L swap, 700R4, 3.42 gears -And a '66 Ford Mustang- 200 I6, C4 trans, rust bucket "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself." -FDR (and maybe rust too) You've gotta be able to stop and steer before you can go fast! |
05-27-2011, 11:25 PM | #21 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
if everything is done right, then it won't matter how much throttle you gove it, nor the speed you run it. If done properly, it only supports the weight of the shaft.
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05-28-2011, 12:35 AM | #22 | |
Who's got steelies?
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
Quote:
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05-28-2011, 12:51 AM | #23 |
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Re: Carrier Bearing Design Issues!
You need to get a baseline centerline from your crank centerline, we will call that 0 deg, carry that centerline through the transmission output shaft. The angle of the shaft in the end of the trans needs to be 1 to 1.5 deg. The centerline of the rearend pinon needs to be at the same angle as the first shaft. When you install the rear shaft the angles on the second shaft will automatically correct. You need at least 1 deg. but no more than 3 deg driveline angle or your driveline parts will vibrate and/or fail. Google Spicer driveline installation or dana...there is a whole bunch of good information there.
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